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Can you remove the steering column "cover"? by ryan.hess
Started on: 01-26-2005 09:27 PM
Replies: 16
Last post by: ryan.hess on 01-28-2005 11:25 AM
ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-26-2005 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
The front plastic "section" that covers the turn signal and ignition cylinder and all that..... Can it be removed without breaking things? And if so, what needs to be taken off to make this happen?
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Report this Post01-26-2005 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
You need a steering wheel puller:

and a lock plate compressor:

Each generally runs about $10 at AutoZone.

From there it's pretty straightforward. Here's a brief pictorial:

http://web2.airmail.net/jsavage1/repairprocedures/tiltcolumn/

Depending on what you're trying to do you don't have to drop the column bracket.

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Report this Post01-26-2005 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Direct Link to This Post
Once you get that lock plate off it's straightforward but be careful because little pieces have a tendency to fly out and you need a good drawing and pictures to get it put back together again. It felt kind of like brain surgery when I did it.

The "plastic" piece as you call it, believe it or not is made out of aluminum. It's stronger than it looks, although any two bit thief can break into the column in a heartbeat. By the way, why are you going in the column in the first place.

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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-26-2005 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
Ahh yes! Proof that it can be removed!

Thanks! That was quite helpful! Too bad I'm only on step 9!

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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-26-2005 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post

ryan.hess

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quote
Originally posted by jscott1:
The "plastic" piece as you call it, believe it or not is made out of aluminum.

I don't believe you! (But I'll have to look at it more thoroughly tomorrow...)

 
quote
By the way, why are you going in the column in the first place.

No reason. Carry on!


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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-27-2005 03:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
Okay fellow fierophiles..... Now what? The housing seems to be getting hung up on something.. I removed the hazard switch, the white-plastic-leaf-switch-thing, and the lock cylinder, along with the three torx screws that hold the housing on...... Ideas?

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Paul Prince
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Report this Post01-27-2005 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Paul PrinceSend a Private Message to Paul PrinceDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ryan.hess:

Okay fellow fierophiles..... Now what? The housing seems to be getting hung up on something.. I removed the hazard switch, the white-plastic-leaf-switch-thing, and the lock cylinder, along with the three torx screws that hold the housing on...... Ideas?

You have to remove the lower plastic IC panel and unplug it. It looks from your picture that you did not do that. The plug clips to that lower IC panel, four 7mm screws hold the panel in. Note the routing of the wires for reassembly.......Paul

edit: You are trying to take the turn signal switch off, right?

[This message has been edited by Paul Prince (edited 01-27-2005).]

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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-27-2005 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Paul Prince:
You have to remove the lower plastic IC panel and unplug it. It looks from your picture that you did not do that. The plug clips to that lower IC panel, four 7mm screws hold the panel in. Note the routing of the wires for reassembly.......Paul

edit: You are trying to take the turn signal switch off, right?

Yes/no/maybe/I don't know. I'm trying to remove the housing as shown in my post above (jazzman's pic). If I need to remove the turn signal switch, then yes. I just removed that panel to look for wiring that I might need to disconnect..... I disconnected the cruise control wire, but so far, that's it. You mention to disconnect the plug that was clipped to the panel? Are you sure? <scratches head> I'll take a look at it again in a couple hours.

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Fie Ro
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Report this Post01-27-2005 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fie RoSend a Private Message to Fie RoDirect Link to This Post
did you already disconnect the electric connectors down the column? I guess there are 3, 1 goes to the turn sign stalk: the purple/grey/white wires in your pic, 1 that attaches to the white plastic thingie (with the green wires) and theres 1 connected to the wireloom in the dash (only disconnect if you remove the column).
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Paul Prince
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Report this Post01-27-2005 04:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Paul PrinceSend a Private Message to Paul PrinceDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ryan.hess:


Yes/no/maybe/I don't know. I'm trying to remove the housing as shown in my post above (jazzman's pic). If I need to remove the turn signal switch, then yes. I just removed that panel to look for wiring that I might need to disconnect..... I disconnected the cruise control wire, but so far, that's it. You mention to disconnect the plug that was clipped to the panel? Are you sure? <scratches head> I'll take a look at it again in a couple hours.


The white assembly in your pic is the turn signal switch. It has a 7 wire or so flat connector that is snaked through the column and connects to its counterpart. It is a large, flat connector. Just pull on the wires and watch for movement ..........Paul

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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-27-2005 04:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
Yep, looks like I'll have to remove that then... I was able to work the cover loose, but I will have to start disconnecting wires to remove the cover. btw - this looks like it's going to be a PAIN to put back together... I can't figure out how the high/low beam switch assembly went together. Specifically how that rod interfaces with the sliding button. Yep, I'm in over my head I think brain surgery would've been easier - less things to put back together
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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-27-2005 09:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post

ryan.hess

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Okay, now it's just hanging by the wires..... Now how do I get the bloody connectors out through the column??? I have to remove the column bracket, don't I?

Since I probably do, what's the recommended torque/procedure on the 4 bolts?

[This message has been edited by ryan.hess (edited 01-27-2005).]

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JazzMan
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Report this Post01-27-2005 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
They're 13mm and 15mm bolts, very much overkill for such a lightly stressed application. Getting them reasonably tight will be fine. Yes, you have to remove the bracket because under it is a plastic sleeve that enshrouds the wiring harness. Pay attention to how the sleeve has square holes that fit over the column bracket weldnuts. Once the sleeve is removed you align the connector so that it will feed up through the column. This is easy to do as the wire lengths were originally cut so as to cause the connector to line up with the wires.

If you're just exploring in your column just be sure to keep good notes on how things are aligned.

In the pictures at the link I posted I show how the dimmer switch pushrod and cam are installed.

JazzMan

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ShaddowGt
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Report this Post01-27-2005 11:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ShaddowGtSend a Private Message to ShaddowGtDirect Link to This Post
man, do i have to do all that if i want to replace the lock cylinder thingy?

(actually i have a secret plan for the lock cylinder, do i gotta do all that to get it out?)

back to the topic at hand!

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Report this Post01-28-2005 12:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
You don't have to drop the column or disconnect the turn signal wiring to change the lock cylinder. Just unbolt the signal switch and pull it gently up far enough to get it over the end of the stub shaft, then swing it down. Use pliers to pull out the key presence switch, then undo the T-20 Torx screw that holds the ignition lock cylinder in place. At that point the lock cylinder is free to come out. Reassemble the key presence switch according to the pictures at the link I posted. Install the new lock cylinder, install the screw, the reassembled switch, then reassemble the rest of the column.

With practice this is a 15-20 minute job.

JazzMan

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Report this Post01-28-2005 03:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AzrielSend a Private Message to AzrielDirect Link to This Post
If you have an aftermarket steering wheel installed using a grant style adaptor, it's a real pain in the ass to use a standard steering wheel puller. A gear puller works a lot better. Grant was too stupid to put the holes in for using a puller. You have to pull it by the three holes that you mount you steepring wheel with.
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ryan.hess
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Report this Post01-28-2005 11:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ryan.hessSend a Private Message to ryan.hessDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:
very much overkill for such a lightly stressed application.

except when bodies go flying towards the wheel and column

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