quote Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: All the information I have read over it all lists that a 10" spray is needed and the candys and transparent colors need even more. For you paint guys that maybe hard to do.

That's not hard. Some colors need to be sprayed out even a little farther to get the metallic flow proper. The distance from the surface will sometimes dictate how the metallic particles sit in the paint, and you can get a serious variant of the metallic particles just by moving the gun a couple of inches closer or farther away. Depends on color coverage, air pressure, metallic particles.......lots of variables.

quote Originally posted by Firefox: That's not hard. Some colors need to be sprayed out even a little farther to get the metallic flow proper. The distance from the surface will sometimes dictate how the metallic particles sit in the paint, and you can get a serious variant of the metallic particles just by moving the gun a couple of inches closer or farther away. Depends on color coverage, air pressure, metallic particles.......lots of variables.

I did not know that the distance makes a difference on the way the flack lays, good to know!

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Farther away or higher air pressure makes metallics lighter because it dries faster keeping the particles near the top. Closer and lower air pressure darkens it because the particals sink farther down in the carrier when it stays wet longer. Clear will tend to darken colors too, especially lighter ones. So dont over clear a repair job, 2 coats are usually fine.

Roger is it a good idea to add extra clear to an area or a panel that is a little lighter to darken or match it up then?

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Possibly, but theres no rule set in stone....mostly just experience to know what colors will do what. You really never want to put more than 2-3 coats of clear when you use urathane basecoats/ clearcoats. I put 2 on out the door jobs, 3 on ones im going to color sand and buff.

Got it!

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Well I desided to stop thinking about them and I bought them on Ebay this morning:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category= 43987&item=4532306247&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

[This message has been edited by GSXRBOBBY (edited 03-07-2005).]

This thread has been extremely enlightening. Thanks to all who are sharing their wealth of knowledge.
My question is: If you just need spot painting done (the hood and maybe the spoiler) and you have never painted before (it is black however), would it be realistic to try it yourself? 90% of my 87 GT is passable. I'm not looking for anything great just want to get rid of the ugly hood. Eventually, she will get the complete paint job she deserves.

Thanks,

Chris

[This message has been edited by 87blackGT (edited 03-07-2005).]

Technically, thats called ' panel painting ' . Spot painting would be to just paint a small damaged area on a panel. With black, and all the flat surfaces you want to paint, it would be very easy for a first timer. Just need a paint gun, compressor and a moisture trap in the air line. Id use black basecoat [2 coats] and clearcoat [also 2 coats]. Try to do it in as clean an area as you can with the parts removed so you dont have to mask anything off. If you do get a little dust or something in it, its easy to sand out after a day or 2 and polish back up. AND follow all the above suggestions. DONT have your car in the garage when you spray !!!!! and throw covers on anything in the room you dont want overspray on. The clear wont come off of anything.

http://www.autoaircolors.com/
Just thought I would share this with you guys

I have to say, I used an old finder and I didn't finish the project, just played with it so I didn't clear it. But it was nice to use,
1. No bad fumes, infact did it in the basement without a mask.
2. Did not need to add anything to it, it works straight from the bottle.
3. All sizes are the same price, reds are not more!
4. The hardest part was getting use to having the gun 12" or more away instead of 6".
5. It covers any type of primer or can be cleared with any clear!
6. I liked how it worked or should say sprayed just didn't like the color I picked, a candy orange looked gold.
I ordered some more, some solids and transparents to see how they spray. I am going to put a transparent orange over a candy white to see how its going to look?
The other thing I liked was it comes in different sizes
4oz.
qrt
pt
gallon

Approx prices for a basic semi opaque color
4 oz. $5.95
16 oz. $22.60
32 oz. $42.95
128 oz. $158.95

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

interesting paint - seems that everything they sell is semi-transparent its like multiple layers of different colored single stage paints.. give some nice effects though

Everything they have is a water base paint, which means they need to be cleared to hold down the color. So no its more of a 2 stage. Also with the body not being metal and if it is not a OEM paint job on it it would be a good idea to use a primer/sealer type to stop any color from bleeding through. Again, I have just played a little with this and has been fun, a good way to get use to using a spray gun other then the distance you hold the gun, most paints your 6" away, this type of paint your 12" away.

The other thing is this type of paint ask you to use a 1.0mm to 1.3mm nozzle. Some of the thicker metalics you can use up to a 1.4mm which is the most common size for any paint. I am going to try using a 1.4mm with all of it just turning down the gun a small amount.

The other cool part is any un used paint can be placed right back into the bottle since nothing needs to be added.

Now I am not saying this is for everybody, infact I thick it is better for graphics or strips. But has been used for complete cars and has been fun to use and try.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

wait - so you have to use another clear ontop? I missed that somewhere..

I think those paints would be great to use for detail work.. and airbrushing - especially due to the no mixing required bit.

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: wait - so you have to use another clear ontop? I missed that somewhere.. I think those paints would be great to use for detail work.. and airbrushing - especially due to the no mixing required bit.

Yes, its a waterbase paint so it needs to be cleared. Otherwise is washs away, but the plus is if you make a mistake it can be removed alot easier. Any type of clear can be used.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Just thought I would bump this up for some of the guys that might be thinking about painting for the summer.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

Ya this is an awesome thread..

you guys have taught me a lot..

just got the car painted.. It took a total of about 6 weeks from start to finish..

looks great...

pics to come...

pc..out

Please do!

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

quote Originally posted by PCGamer: pics to come...

Yes! We love pics! ( of most cars )

ok here is the deal.. got the car back from paint.. looks good except for some areas.. the painter wet sanded with 1500 after the clear cured for a few days.. he put on about 3 coats of deltron dbu clear with the slow hardner..

anyways he then wheeled it with a 3m compound.. the problem is this i dont want to take it back to him cause he did do a lot of work and gave me a good $$$$ but there are areas he either forgot to wheel completley and the finish looks incredibly dull from the wet sanding or he didnt wheel certain areas enough...

QUESTION:: I have access to one of those 50 dollar wheels from the autoparts store just not one of those $300 jobs from the paint store.. Should i attempt to use the one i have access tooooo??

QUESTION: If i do this i dont want to burn through the clear.. give me some tips here guys...

Question : In addition give me the specifics as to what type or types of compounds i should be using and what types of pads on the wheel as well to tackle this job.....

help..

pc...

If you never used a buffer, stay away from it. You can destroy a paint job in a few minutes. Those dull spots can be rubbed out by hand. Takes a lot of elbow grease, but people used to do the whole car like that. Get ' Rubbing Compound ' and a clean cloth and just rub back and forth (a lot) over the area. Then go to a milder (less grit) compound, then a 'swirl / scratch' remover, and finally wax. Dont do the wax part till its a month old.

I use 3M super duty compound, then 3M medium cut, 3M fine cut, then swirl remover. Watch out on sharp body lines, you can go thru to the base color if your not careful.

quote Originally posted by PCGamer: ok here is the deal.. got the car back from paint.. looks good except for some areas.. the painter wet sanded with 1500 after the clear cured for a few days.. he put on about 3 coats of deltron dbu clear with the slow hardner.. anyways he then wheeled it with a 3m compound.. the problem is this i dont want to take it back to him cause he did do a lot of work and gave me a good $$$$ but there are areas he either forgot to wheel completley and the finish looks incredibly dull from the wet sanding or he didnt wheel certain areas enough... QUESTION:: I have access to one of those 50 dollar wheels from the autoparts store just not one of those $300 jobs from the paint store.. Should i attempt to use the one i have access tooooo?? QUESTION: If i do this i dont want to burn through the clear.. give me some tips here guys... Question : In addition give me the specifics as to what type or types of compounds i should be using and what types of pads on the wheel as well to tackle this job..... help.. pc...

save yourself the cost of redoing the paintjob and take it back to the guy and if you feel bad about him giving you a deal then toss him a couple extra bucks for finishing it off.

or do it all by hand

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: If you never used a buffer, stay away from it. You can destroy a paint job in a few minutes.........

Follow this advise. One mistake and you're repainting.

welp its almost time for paint before carlisle.. wish me luck..

I just won my complete paint kit using Kirker urethane paint off ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4543101877&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

Dodge Bright White is the color I decided on

comes with primer/sealer, basecoat, and clear (as well as the catalyst, PPG reducer, and various mixing tools)

ok i need advice..

my 86 was painted back in early march.. since then its been sitting in my non heated garage in southeastern michigan..

since painted, for the few weeks in march it was averagaing high 20's at night and 40's during the days.. april was in the 40's night and 50's and 60's during the day..

question :::::::; is the paint ready so that i can wax it now???

pc..

what type of paint? urethane or enamel?

urethane.

ppg deltron base/clear

pc...

Yes....you can wax. I wax after at least 30 days during weather where the temp is constantly above 50 degrees, and I'll give it another couple of weeks for anything colder. The paint is chemically reactive so it really isn't temperature sensitive, until you get down to freezing levels.

Mark

I am so impressed with this thread as I am getting close to painting.
I purchased the paint off e-bay PPG Deltron DAU 9700 BC/CC.
CC is DAU 82 DELGLO Acrylic Urethane but still need to
get the Hardner and reducer.
I am wondering since I have sanded down to the primer or maybe the
plastic as it is black should I just go ahead and buy some primer and shoot it?
And if so should I just shoot the whole car in primer first or just the back half
which is where all the sanding was done and then scuff off the other paint?

I tried to have someone paint it for me and they wanted $1500 and that is with
me preping, my paint and also mounting the seperate body parts back on. Thought that
was a bit much.

Oops for got what would the sandpaper grits be for the sanding??

[This message has been edited by carolinajoe (edited 05-05-2005).]

IMO primer//sealer is always a good idea

If you've sanded to the plastic, you'll need to prime those areas at least. But, priming the car isn't such a bad idea anyway. It will give you more time with a spray gun so when you start to spray your paint, you'll be somewhat familiar with how your gun sprays. Plus, it gives you a uniform surface to spray your paint on.

Sand with 180 before primer, then 320 after primer and before paint.

Mark

quote Originally posted by carolinajoe: I am so impressed with this thread as I am getting close to painting. I purchased the paint off e-bay PPG Deltron DAU 9700 BC/CC. CC is DAU 82 DELGLO Acrylic Urethane but still need to get the Hardner and reducer. I am wondering since I have sanded down to the primer or maybe the plastic as it is black should I just go ahead and buy some primer and shoot it? And if so should I just shoot the whole car in primer first or just the back half which is where all the sanding was done and then scuff off the other paint? I tried to have someone paint it for me and they wanted $1500 and that is with me preping, my paint and also mounting the seperate body parts back on. Thought that was a bit much. Oops for got what would the sandpaper grits be for the sanding??

Yes I was very happy to see how well this old thread of mine as turned out!!!

P.S. how are things going up north there Mark? Somewhat good here, finally back to work full time, just intime to get in the way of me finishing up my car. I was hoping to make up to the Dells this year but doesn't look like I can as of now.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

if he sanded to the plastic wont he need plastic adhesion promoter before priming those areas??

pc

No...primer sticks to sanded plastic just fine. Just make sure you have no shiny spots. I generally only primer where i go to the original material or do body work. A well sanded area with old paint is fine to paint over. There are some special exceptions like I generally do put a light coat of gray primer over a car thats going silver, but thats mostly to save on paint material. Basecoat colors generally cover exceptionally well. I rarely have to use more than 2 coats. Even white covers red oxide primer completely in 2. *disclaimer....there will be colors that dont cover well... some reds, oranges, and especially yellows are very transparent.

quote Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: P.S. how are things going up north there Mark? Somewhat good here, finally back to work full time, just intime to get in the way of me finishing up my car. I was hoping to make up to the Dells this year but doesn't look like I can as of now.

Find a way to get to the Dells for the weekend.

Kristie and I are buying a new house, and we move the Tuesday after the Dells. My new garage is going to be set up even better for painting than the current one, and I can't wait for that. I've got a new furnace and central air unit just for my new garage........

Roger.....when you coming up to the Dells?

Mark

[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 05-05-2005).]

Mark I guess I will have to put the 88 STS painting to the test at the new place....wink wink!!!!

I will PM you soon, but I hate to say it but the Dells don't look good which I was really looking forward to.

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Bobby from NW Indiana
93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag
219customs@verizon.net
My 86 GT build thread
MY 88 Northstar build thread

I've watched this thread and found a lot of useful information in what has been posted. Roger and a couple others have put more than thier two cents worth with information. For person's attempting to go by this thread and paint a car, be prepared for the unexpected and don't loose patience. For those who have never painted, the sanding can be overwhelming. Just remember to do it in steps, one part at a time, and everything will come together. Different people have different methods when it comes to painting and seasoned painters have thier own "style". Equipment is important, but the quality of labor is just as important.

As someone mentioned earlier in the thread, prep work is perhaps the most important. The paint will magnify the bodywork 10 fold by bringing out any mistakes in the bodywork... including sandmarks. Paint is thin and dosn't fill very many scratches.

Be careful with the high speed buffers. Dirt/dust, compound, applied pressure etc. in the wrong amount will "burn" a hole through the clear/paint and you might find yourself having to repaint the part. High speed buffers are like fine grit sanders. The compund is your grit.

I reccommend Dupont and 3M products. They are a little expensive, but their products work really well.

Edited for gramrer an mispelingz.
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Got Blue?

BlueGT

[This message has been edited by BlueGT (edited 05-06-2005).]

i didnt want to contaminate this thread with pics. of my freshly painted GT but i can post them on this one if thats ok??..??

pc...

quote Originally posted by PCGamer: i didnt want to contaminate this thread with pics. of my freshly painted GT but i can post them on this one if thats ok??..?? pc...

I'm game

pics by all means.....

Mark, too far for me to go and come back in the same day. I dont do overnighters, too many things always goin on. Carlisle is about the limit. Now if they had an airstrip at the show................

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 05-06-2005).]

Yes please posts the Pics. Especially if it is Black

And thanks again everyone for your input and help.
Hopefully within a week or two I can do it. I have had
4 neck surgeries and tend to over do it and have to take
a break for a day or 2 and then get back at it.