I need a recommendation for assembly lube to use when rebuilding my engines for long term storage. Basically, whatever is used in crate motors. I'll be using moly cam lube on the lifters and cam lobes, but the bearings/rings/seals still need long term protection.
Thanks!
JazzMan
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10:44 PM
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jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
I used to use STP right out of the can until I tried a product called Royal Purple and I'm sold on it. I can't say how it lasts for long term storage, but I know that it's still there after 18 months. I've put it on crank journals to act as a cosmoline substitute and it seems to never go away.
You can get Royal Purple from Jegs and probably Summit.
John Stricker
edited to add a link to Royal Purple I first read about it in a machine shop magazine I get that specializes in extreme high performance and precision machine work type of an audience. It has rave reviews from almost every major engine builder in the country. Good Stuff.
[This message has been edited by jstricker (edited 11-30-2004).]
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11:17 PM
Dec 1st, 2004
webbee Member
Posts: 1149 From: Los Angeles, Ca. USA Registered: Jun 2000
I have never built for storage but I see no reason the following formula wouldn't store.
Lubraplate white grease or Molly Bearing Grease thined with Marvel Mystery Oil. You want to thin the grease to the consistancy of an extra thick cream. More greasey than soupey. Always produces a nicely polished bearing and crank. I also use MMO in the break in oil.
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05:37 AM
jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
A lot of people swear by MMO. I've seen people use it and they claim it frees stuck valves, etc. I don't know. It probably doesn't hurt anything, but I've never seen much difference between it and other light motor oils, like ATF. Although I don't use it, I'm not going to laugh and point fingers at people that do, but I'm going to stick with something made for the job.
John Stricker
quote
Originally posted by webbee:
I have never built for storage but I see no reason the following formula wouldn't store.
Lubraplate white grease or Molly Bearing Grease thined with Marvel Mystery Oil. You want to thin the grease to the consistancy of an extra thick cream. More greasey than soupey. Always produces a nicely polished bearing and crank. I also use MMO in the break in oil.
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08:38 AM
spearce Member
Posts: 257 From: Delaware, Ontario,Canada Registered: Nov 2002
My neighbour, an engine builder, recommended Lucas Oil Stabilizer as an assembley lube. Worked for me when I had my 2.8 out installing a turbo, cam, rockers, complete head rebuild, and timing chain.
Steve
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08:41 AM
tesmith66 Member
Posts: 7355 From: Jerseyville, IL Registered: Sep 2001
I have always used a 50/50 mix of STP and motor oil for assembly when the motor was going to be started right away. If I thought it would sit for a while, I use white grease on the bearings & timing chain and the STP/oil mix everywhere else.
I always use the thick, black, pasty cam break-in lube. I get extra because they never seem to ship enough with new cams.
------------------ 1986 SE 350 V8
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09:26 AM
rubyredfiero Member
Posts: 720 From: Belle River, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jul 2003
Here's what I have used for the past 25 years (or more, lost count). For engines that were installed right after they were assembled I used the GM EOS except for the cam, where I used green cam lube. I used this method for all my racing engines. If the engine was to destined sit any more than two days, I used the white assembly lube exclusively, even on the cam. It will not drip off, but then it blends with the oil once the engine is running. Oil/filter were changed shortly after. They both cost around $8.00 each. EOS from GM only and the white lube I got from CarQuest. There are other products available, but I had success with these products.
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09:35 AM
GTDude Member
Posts: 9056 From: Keysville, Virginia, USA Registered: Nov 2001
Here's what I have used for the past 25 years (or more, lost count). For engines that were installed right after they were assembled I used the GM EOS except for the cam, where I used green cam lube. I used this method for all my racing engines. If the engine was to destined sit any more than two days, I used the white assembly lube exclusively, even on the cam. It will not drip off, but then it blends with the oil once the engine is running. Oil/filter were changed shortly after. They both cost around $8.00 each. EOS from GM only and the white lube I got from CarQuest. There are other products available, but I had success with these products.
Been using the same lubricants for about the same amount of time and I've had engines sit for many months before installantion and none of them had break in problems.
Lucas oil stabilizer would be my next choice. Anything I've every used with the Lucas brand name has been great. Good luck and peace.
Phil
------------------ I am always available to help those that need help. Since my back injury, I cannot work on many of the aspects of the cars, but I can offer the knowledge of my 27 years as a GM technician. Bring the questions on................!