Here's the story...parking brake didn't work worth a
crap...replaced the rear calipers, parking brake cables, rear hoses,
rear pads, and master cylinder. I figured I'd just do it all while I
was back there (master cylinder was original with 160k on it). The
front calipers, brakes, and hoses are maybe a year and a half old. I
bench bled the master cylinder before I put it on w/ a bench bleeding
kit...seemed to work fine. Bled all four calipers 3 times each. The
parking brake works great, but the pedal is STILL freakin' SOFT!!! The
car stops eventually, but there is way too much pedal travel. Is there
some special secret to bleeding Fiero brakes?? There seems to be a
trick to every other GD thing on these cars, are the brakes the same
way?? Should I invest in a pressure bleeder? I'm completely at my
wits end and need help before I personally PAY someone to crush this car!

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I never thought my HERO would have a question too...

somebody help this guy cuz he always helps ME when I have issues...

Check for leaks from the vacuum booster to the vacuum port on the manifold. By using a vacuum tester kit.
And replace the gormet at the booster port. Worked for me.

quote Originally posted by FieroSE86: Bled all four calipers 3 times each. The parking brake works great, but the pedal is STILL freakin' SOFT!!!

I believe my '88 service manual said you may have to bleed each caliper 8 to 10 times or more

And thats what I did when I replaced all four calipers. Can't speak for the m/c - had my mechanic do that.

Good luck.

Put thread tape on the bleeder screws. Make sure the holes aren't covered up. Same goes for the clutch slave.

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1986 SE 350 V8

I just put all new steel lines all the way around on mine and new rear calipers. Have you checked for leaks? My old calipers started leaking around where the flex line attaches, and even a small leak made it feel mushy. Make sure you used brand new copper crush washers, as this will make a difference too. Washers that have already been "crushed" will not give a good seal. I learned this the hard way. I simply gravity bled my whole system and if came out fine.

I can't speak for the master cylinder as I have never taken it out.

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Jay Brintnell
Owner / Design Lead - WordMark.ca Communications

[This message has been edited by Eclipse (edited 11-24-2004).]

quote Originally posted by Eclipse: I just put all new steel lines all the way around on mine and new rear calipers. Have you checked for leaks? My old calipers started leaking around where the flex line attaches, and even a small leak made it feel mushy. Make sure you used brand new copper crush washers, as this will make a difference too. Washers that have already been "crushed" will not give a good seal. I learned this the hard way. I simply gravity bled my whole system and if came out fine. I can't speak for the master cylinder as I have never taken it out.

Forgive my ignorance, but how do you gravity bleed the brakes??

Since the reservoir is higher that the calipers, remove the cap and losen the bleeders, and eventually the fluid will run through on it's own, provided everything is clean and clear. I did them in this order... back left, back right, front right, front left.

When I do this I hold a small jar (baby food jar) under the bleeder and make sure that I run enough fluid through each caliper to half fill the jar, and that I get a constant flow of fluid, and no more bubbles.

I know there may be better ways, but this has always worked for me and many others.