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1988 front spring replacement by mikereednv
Started on: 09-20-2004 04:01 PM
Replies: 13
Last post by: css9450 on 12-09-2004 06:28 PM
mikereednv
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Report this Post09-20-2004 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post
I am in the midst of ball joint replacement, and am having trouble fitting the spring back into the spring tower. Any tips or tricks that others have employed? I have searched the archive, without much help. I was able to get the spring back in, but it is mis-aligned at the top mount. Is it possible to slightly unload it, and pry it into place? The rest of this job was not too difficult. Any help would be greatly apprciated. Thanks.
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intlcutlass
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Report this Post09-20-2004 04:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for intlcutlassSend a Private Message to intlcutlassDirect Link to This Post
I don't understand how it wouldn't sit right.... Is there anything up there you missed. Do you have that rubber pad back on the spring correctly?
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Formula88
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Report this Post09-20-2004 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Formula88Send a Private Message to Formula88Direct Link to This Post
There are notches in the upper and lower control arm to show you were the end of the spring should stop. Make sure that lines up and use the rubber ring on the top of the spring. It's a bit of a hassle to get it to fit in there, but if you don't get the notches lined up, the spring will sit crooked.
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cccharlie
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Report this Post09-20-2004 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cccharlieSend a Private Message to cccharlieDirect Link to This Post
This may have nothing to do with it, but something you'll need to know:

When you reattach the LCA, you attach the ball joint end first, then jack the other end of the LCA in to place. This is according to the factory manual and experience.

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mikereednv
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Report this Post09-21-2004 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the responses, folks. What had happened was the top of the spring was not centered in the top mount, thus stopping the shock from going through. I am using brand new rubber mounts. I unloaded the spring, and was able to pop it into place with just the proper amount of tension, which kept the top of the spring from jumping out again while I centered the bottom part of the spring on the LCA.. I had the lower control arm attached to the fram at the time, as I thought it would be easier to do it that way. I will attempt the factory method voiced by CCCharlie on the other side, and let you know which is best in my humble opinion. I thought it would be more difficult that way when I read the manual, but will attempt it this time just to learn. At least now the right wheel no longer wobles, which makes me feel much safer. Since I was doing it, I decided to replace all the ball joints, and tie rod ends just to be safe, as the car has 110 K on it, and something else is bound to go shortly. They are not very expensive, so why not do it all at once. Am placing new brake pads on as well, since it is already apart. Once my new struts arrive, I will replace those and get a 4 wheel aligment done. I already got the shocks and am installing those as well. I shall ask again if I need more help, many thanks to the forum members for their willingness to offer advice and wisdom to us less experienced shadetree mechanics.
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FTF Engineering
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Report this Post09-21-2004 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FTF EngineeringSend a Private Message to FTF EngineeringDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mikereednv:

I am using brand new rubber mounts.

Hi mikereednv,

I went through this a while ago too, and it's a pain. The part I didn't like was teetering the car on three points while jacking the very "C" shaped spring into compression. Kinda gave me the willies. Since I did this job, I picked up one of them thar "inside the spring" compressor tools. I figure that it doesn't have to completely smash the spring to the point where it will fall out, but should be able to shorten it enough that you can get it into place and get at least a turn or two on all the nuts.

You said you're using new rubber mounts... Are you talking about the thick rubber ring at the top of the spring? If so, where did you get them? I was looking for them a while ago and they were (supposedly) discontinued and my Pontiac guy couldn't get stock. Help?

Thanks, -Bruce at FTF Engineering

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mikereednv
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Report this Post09-22-2004 03:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post
I was talking about the thick rubber mounts at the top of the springs. I got them through Summit. I found a part number here on the forum, but am at work, so cannot get it for you. I will post the number later.
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Solo2
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Report this Post09-22-2004 08:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Solo2Send a Private Message to Solo2Direct Link to This Post
I found the article!
"Found some replacement spring dampers (the rubber on the top of the front springs) I thought it would be insane to re-use the old ones with a new set of Eibachs so here is the info for anyone who cares. The part number is 15.6103, and they are ~$11 each from Summit (available in Red or Black) they have approximately the same dimensions and I have test fit them on the crossmember and they fit well. ES Part # 15.6103"
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mikereednv
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Report this Post09-23-2004 08:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post
That is the correct part number. When you order, only order one, as there are two rubber mounts in the box. I ordered two, but I now have 2 99 GTs that will receive them, so I wasted no $$.
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mikereednv
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Report this Post09-23-2004 08:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post

mikereednv

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Member since Dec 2001
Correction, that is two 88 GTs. Typng in a poorly lit area is not all that great, especially at 5:00 AM!
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FTF Engineering
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Report this Post09-23-2004 08:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FTF EngineeringSend a Private Message to FTF EngineeringDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mikereednv:

That is the correct part number. When you order, only order one, as there are two rubber mounts in the box.

Hey mikereednv and Solo2,

> ES Part # 15.6103

Thanks guys!! -Bruce

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mikereednv
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Report this Post09-28-2004 03:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mikereednvSend a Private Message to mikereednvDirect Link to This Post
Well, as promised, I replaced the second spring in the manner described in the manual. It is much faster, but I would say a bit trickier than outlined in the book. If I was to do this again, and I will on the other 88 GT I have, I will do it the proper way, even though I feel having the LCA already bolted to the car is a safer route. I like saving time, even if it is a bit more dangerous. Heck, I drive Fieros on Las Vegas traffic, so danger is nothing new! I would liek to thank everyone for their advice and other comments. It also turned out that my LCA were both in very good shape, so there will be no need for replacement.
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Tom Slick
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Report this Post12-09-2004 10:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom SlickSend a Private Message to Tom SlickDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Solo2:

I found the article!
"Found some replacement spring dampers (the rubber on the top of the front springs) I thought it would be insane to re-use the old ones with a new set of Eibachs so here is the info for anyone who cares. The part number is 15.6103, and they are ~$11 each from Summit (available in Red or Black) they have approximately the same dimensions and I have test fit them on the crossmember and they fit well. ES Part # 15.6103"


are there any for the rear springs?

thanks...

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css9450
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Report this Post12-09-2004 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tom Slick:

are there any for the rear springs?

thanks...

Yes, Fiero Store sells them. I just ordered a set which should arrive any day now (I had a very bad strut so I'm replacing averything while I have it all apart).

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