I have been chasing this problem for months now. I started a few threads and each one was helpful, but my car still stalls and runs like crap. It wont hold an idle at all for than 30 seconds. At first startup it will idle OK for about 30 seconds then it'll die. Then it won't hold an idle at ALL after that. Here are some of the threads I started about it.
Well after finally getting a fuel pressure gauge I went out and tested it. My pressure read 40 psi at idle and 40 psi at WOT. It read about 10psi with the key in the ignition. I am out of ideas and don't have enough money or faith for a mechanic. Any ideas.
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04:20 PM
PFF
System Bot
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8868 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
You may have a internal fuel leak caused by the pulsater valve.Usually it's the TCC sylinoid (in the tranny) that causes the car to stall at a stop or signal.What is the fuel pressure supposed to be at Idle?
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04:54 PM
Bigfieroman Member
Posts: 2416 From: Pleasant Hills, PA, near Pittsburgh Registered: Nov 2000
Connecticut, I think my O2 sensor was my problem. I changed it, (looked original), the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires with high quality items and cleaned out the IAC at the same time. I let the memory reset, but it still had the problem. I guess I never let it leard idle correctly, because a week later after I let it idle from cold to running temp, the problem went away and has not come back.
It sounds like you have an internal leak somewhere. It could be the pulsator (connects the pump to the pickup), the pump itself, or the FPR. They are all PITA parts. You should have about 38-40 lbs with the key on, the same at idle, and up to 50 or 60 at WOT.
From what I could tell it was 10 PSI with the pump on and the key in the ign, it was 40 at idle and it stayed at 40 at WOT. Now if my stalling problem was a fuel related issue I should have seen a dip in the PSI before my car stalled, yet I didn't. So does this mean it isn't fuel related? Or could it be a fuel problem after the schrader valve where the fuel pressure gauge is being tested, in the FPR or the injectors? I am not about to spend hundreds and replace hard to get to parts without knowing exactly what the problem is. Is there any more testing I can do to search for the problem. I just don't know what else there is to try.
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03:55 PM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
40psi at idle and wot looks ok to me. If something on the fuelrail is leaking badly you will see it on the gauge..how much pressure is left after about 10 minutes after shutting the engine off? Mine still has around 20psi, engine runs great now. (got the wrong fuelpump, discovered that after mounting the fuelpressure gauge)
[This message has been edited by Fie Ro (edited 10-19-2004).]
40psi at idle and wot looks ok to me. If something on the fuelrail is leaking badly you will see it on the gauge..how much pressure is left after about 10 minutes after shutting the engine off? Mine still has around 20psi, engine runs great now. (got the wrong fuelpump, discovered that after mounting the fuelpressure gauge)
You know I only left the gauge on for about 20 minutes of testing so I don't know what happens after I let it sit. I assume since the pressure was only 10 psi with the key in the ignition on position that if I let the car sit for a while it should be around 10 psi still. I don;t have a starting problem though. As long as the pump generates 40 psi when I start the car then it shouldn't be a problem. The engine is obviously getting the fuel so it shouldn't stall. But I did get a code 44 lean exhaust, so I just don't know what the problem is.
[This message has been edited by connecticutFIERO (edited 10-19-2004).]
I was talking to Jnco and he mentioned something I hadn't thought through. Why woukd the PSI be 10 with the key in the ignition on position and then 40 psi with the car running. If the pump is on either way it should be the same whether the engine is running or not. So would that mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator is only working correctly when the engine is on and it is getting vacuum? Would that mean the regulator is bad?
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07:00 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I was talking to Jnco and he mentioned something I hadn't thought through. Why woukd the PSI be 10 with the key in the ignition on position and then 40 psi with the car running. If the pump is on either way it should be the same whether the engine is running or not. So would that mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator is only working correctly when the engine is on and it is getting vacuum? Would that mean the regulator is bad?
with the key in the ignition and in the run position but the motor is not started yet. that condition only runs the pump for a few seconds to prime the system. the pump does not stay running unless the engine is running. so 10psi could be just fine. it sounds like your problem is not fuel pressure related. but it could be related to injectors being fouled and not spraying the correct fuel at idle or as mentioned before a vacuum leak. the lean code may or may not be accurate depending on the condition of your o2 sensor. if it is correct that could indicate a vacuum leak also. at least it sounds like you have ruled out removing the fuel tank...
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07:20 PM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
If you want to check the regulator: The regulator has a spring inside, I dont know what the vac exactly does (raising the fuelpressure when enginerevs=vacuum need it?) but I guess the spring alone is rated to keep the right pressure at any time. You can unscrew the regulator from the fuelrail, its some strange torx-variant but you can use pliers too... You can check if the rubber is damaged or misaligned. You also might check your vacuum lines. The FP gauge should read around 40psi anytime when the fuelpump starts to run.
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07:32 PM
Oct 21st, 2004
alienfiero Member
Posts: 638 From: auburn, wa., usa Registered: Aug 2004
I'm waiting for some parts on this (magnet) but try replacing the magnet in the distributor. To keep the engine running, remove the small brass plug on the throttle body and adjust the base idle up.
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12:10 AM
PFF
System Bot
jetman Member
Posts: 7788 From: Sterling Heights Mich Registered: Dec 2002
To keep the engine running, remove the small brass plug on the throttle body and adjust the base idle up.
Yes that will increase the idle, however, the IAC must control the idle. Opening the throttle plate only masks the problem. Opening the throttle body is the same as having a vacuum leak. The adjustment is to have the throttle body plate fully closed but not binding or sticking. I'm thinking that you could try this in order to nurse a car home in an emergency but not for everyday use.
[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 10-21-2004).]
Thanks Aus! 
