This is not my axle, but it’s an image from the ‘net that shows what I’m talking about. I’m following the instructions posted at the Fiero Factory to replace the clutch in my ‘87 Duke with the cradle still in the car. I didn’t have much trouble popping the driver's side axle out of the transmission, but I can’t get the passenger side out. From the Fiero Factory site, it sounds so easy:
“Carefully use a prybar to "pop" the axle out of the trans. Be very careful, as there is a seal between the trans and the axle. You can ruin this seal by bending it with the prybar. It doesn't take that much pressure to release this axle, and you will feel it pop out. It actually has a small compression ring that fits into a groove inside the trans.”
I’m sure some of you have done this many times. How the heck do you get a really stubborn axle out? Is prying them out the only way?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-20-2004).]
This worked very well for me. It was my '85GT automatic. This keeps you from having to by any special equipment unless you don't have any chain and a pry bar around.
The axles came out with almost no resistance and no risk to the transmission housing. I searched but all the suggestions centered around how to pry the CV axle, close to the transmission, without hurting the housing or the use of a special slide hammer tool.
Removal, what's needed? 4 or 5 feet of chain, 3/16" diameter stock with links approx 1-1/2" long, it just needs to be strong but small enough links to allow it to get between the CV axle and the transmission housing. 5 to 6 foot long pry bar, 1-1/2" in diameter or so. (longer is better!) 2 bolts, two inches long with 2 flat washers and 2 nuts each, able to fit through the chain links. (actually I took bolt cutters and cut a couple of links off the chain. I cut a small section out of one side of each link creating C-shaped link. I simply used these links in place of bolts) A piece of wood 2x4 six inches long
After freeing the CV axle from the hub assembly, grab the middle of the chain and let it hang doubled, then from outside the car route the doubled center of the chain along the CV axle through the wheel well allowing the doubled end to drape over the CV axle between the inner CV joint and the transmission housing. Put a bolt (or C-shaped link) through the chain links near the transmission to keep the chain from slipping over the CV joint when under tension. Just outside the cradle, place another bolt (or C-shaped link) through the chain links to create a closed loop. Now, from behind the car, insert the long pry bar along the outside of the cradle, placing the end through the loop in the chain. Place the 2x4 between the cradle and the pry bar to protect the cradle and pull the bar towards the opposite side of the car. You now have a loose axle to replace.
Replacement, what's needed? 1 piece of 1-1/2" pipe a foot or so long, a cap on the end helps 1 sledge hammer, 10-16 lbs. (bigger is better!)
Place the new CV axle into the transmission. Then from outside the wheel well place the pipe over the end of the new CV axle and VERY GENTLY tap the pipe with the hammer until it is seated properly.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
IP: Logged
11:34 PM
Sep 21st, 2004
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5241 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Thanks Rick, I certainly appreciate your detailed response. To be honest though, I’m having a little trouble picturing where exactly you used the long pry bar. From what I do understand, I’d have to disconnect the axle at the wheel end to attempt your method. I might also have a problem however because the transmission is no longer attached to the cradle. The mounting brackets have also been removed to facilitate the removal of the transmission through the driver’s side wheel well. If I was to pry against the cradle, there might be too much movement of the transmission now. It just occurred to me that if I was to disconnect the axle at the wheel, that I could probably just as “easily” leave the passenger side axle in the transmission when I pull the transmission out through the driver’s side wheel well.
Thanks Electrathon, I was wondering whether using a hammer in conjunction with the prying would help. How strong are those axles in regards to taking a “smack”? I hesitated trying this earlier because didn’t want to damage the CV housing.
It seems to me that there should be some kind of simple device that fits between the axle and the transmission housing that could expand and force the two components away from each other. Is there such a device, or will I have to invent one?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-21-2004).]
IP: Logged
12:28 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5241 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
Thanks Electrathon, I was wondering whether using a hammer in conjunction with the prying would help. How strong are those axles in regards to taking a “smack”? I hesitated trying this earlier because didn’t want to damage the CV housing.
It seems to me that there should be some kind of simple device that fits between the axle and the transmission housing that could expand and force the two components away from each other. Is there such a device, or will I have to invent one?
You wont hurt the CV, it is hardend steel. You can hurt the boot if you hit it.
GM used to make a tool for pulling the CV, looked like a C on the end of a slide hammer. The trouble was the car was almost always in the way to use it. It more "pops" out then pulls out. It is just a big snap ring holding it in.
I agree with your comments. I didn't realize that you had the transmission loose from the cradle. Lots of people use a slide hammer to pop axles loose. I didn't have one myself and I was replacing the CV axles with everything still on the car. I just found trying to pry between the CV joint and the tranny housing terribly frustrating, an excercise in how many ways I could mash my fingers.
If you could place a 2x4 or a 4x4 up against the transmission somewhere (maybe, I don't know) and then loop a chain around the CV joint as I described you could then put a prybar through the loop and lever against the wood. It just needs enough steady force to overcome c-ring that has to slide up and over the splines on the end of the axle. Its trying to ride up a chamfer, once it gets up onto the OD of the splines your home free.
The beauty of the chain is it lets you get away from the end of the tranny housing and pry against more substantial surfaces.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
IP: Logged
12:59 AM
Howard_Sacks Member
Posts: 1871 From: Cherry Hill, NJ Registered: Apr 2001
Okay, I’ll give ‘er a smack and see what happens! Thanks.
quote
Originally posted by RickN:
The beauty of the chain is it lets you get away from the end of the tranny housing and pry against more substantial surfaces.
I definitely see your point. If giving the CV a good smack doesn’t work, and if I don’t invent a “expanding contraption” , I might give the chain idea a try. Thanks.
quote
Originally posted by Howard_Sacks:
Get a baby sledge and a thick craftsman flathead screwdriver.
Out pop axle.
Thanks Howard, but where’s the best place to put the blade of the screwdriver? In one of those slots on the CV?
IP: Logged
01:16 AM
tesmith66 Member
Posts: 7355 From: Jerseyville, IL Registered: Sep 2001
I took the bolts out of the lower arm so I could pop mine out. It gives you the room you need to do this. You could remove other parts to do this, but I found these to be the easiest to remove in my case. If you don't have the room to pop the axle all the way out, it won't matter how hard you pry, it just won't come out. Once you have the room, they should come out rather easily.
well once you "pop" them, they are just lose in there and won't be holding the transmission inplace at all.. it can be removed once they are popped lose
IP: Logged
08:40 AM
StuGood Member
Posts: 3172 From: Wichita, KS, USA Registered: Jun 2000
I kept the old clutch release fork from my old Chevy Monza 4-speed (no longer own the car) around for years, for no apparent reason. One day the reason became apparent - I found that the forked end fits nicely between the inner CV joint and transaxle housing on the Fieros. The other end of the fork can be tapped with a hammer, and the axle comes right out.
Just a thought - in case you might happen to have an old clutch release fork that you've been thinking of tossing out .
------------------
IP: Logged
12:58 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I always used a 4' crow bar - to pry between the joint and the trans case as shown in that picture - always worked for me
Thanks Kohburn, that method worked very easily on the driver’s side axle, but nothing lets go on the passenger side.
quote
Originally posted by avengador1:
If you don't have the room to pop the axle all the way out, it won't matter how hard you pry, it just won't come out. Once you have the room, they should come out rather easily.
Thanks Avenger, but even with the transmission just hanging there unattached from everything else, the passenger axle won’t let go (yet).
quote
Originally posted by StuGood:
Just a thought - in case you might happen to have an old clutch release fork that you've been thinking of tossing out.
Thanks for the suggestion, Stu. I knew there was a good reason why I don’t toss anything out, but alas, I have no clutch release fork hanging around.
I appreciate all the ideas, guys! I can’t work on the car for a couple of days, but when I do, I’ll post back to report which method finally worked!
IP: Logged
05:40 PM
avengador1 Member
Posts: 35468 From: Orlando, Florida Registered: Oct 2001
If the transmission is just hanging loose, you should be able to separate the axle from it. It only is held in place by a snap ring, Im sure you must have seen the one on the other side when you popped that one out. Just be careful to not pry too hard on the transmission's case or you could crack it. If you could get a prybar on opposite sides of the axle, to pry at the same time, it might help. It probably would have been better if the tranny was still attached to the craddle, this would have helped hold it in place while you pried or tugged the axle out.Good luck.
IP: Logged
07:18 PM
Howard_Sacks Member
Posts: 1871 From: Cherry Hill, NJ Registered: Apr 2001
As a wedge between the tranny and the axle. Just give it a good tap. I wouldnt worry about the seals. Just replace them before you put the axle back in.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
Thanks Howard, but where’s the best place to put the blade of the screwdriver? In one of those slots on the CV?
IP: Logged
07:35 PM
Sep 22nd, 2004
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I would think that some strategically placed C-4 might get that sucker out of there! Just a little pressed between the CV joint and the seal. You'll have to replace the seal* after your done though.(LOL).
*and the transmission, the engine, the car, garage floor...
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
I had the same problem you did. Then I realized I was babying the process. Just use the crwobar/huge screwdriver and put some ass in to it and it is guaranteed to come out. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/icons/icon7.gif
IP: Logged
05:03 PM
Sep 24th, 2004
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Thanks Cyrus, but I wasn't exactly being gentle with that axle. I guess I'm just a little surprised that the other axle came out so easy. I may have to follow Rick's advice and use some C-4. Hmmm.... wonder where I can find some of that stuff here in Canada?
IP: Logged
02:00 AM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
When I took mine out I used a block of wood against the case to protect it, It gave a little but I figured it was cheaper than replacing the case if I cracked it! not sure how much room you have in there though, mine was out the car.
Did you try rotating the axle a little then prying it, it might come out easier in one location than another, just a thought.
Did you try rotating the axle a little then prying it, it might come out easier in one location than another, just a thought.
Thanks Dave, that's probably worth trying.
quote
Originally posted by ralpy:
Axle is not disconnected from hub? I thought that was necessary.
Not if the transmission is just hanging there! The only thing preventing the transmission from sliding off the clutch/flywheel is the passenger side axle. Yes, the axle is still attached to the hub, so think of it as having to remove the transmission from the axle!
It'll probably be another day or two before I can attack the Fiero again, but I certainly appreciate all the suggestions!
IP: Logged
01:37 PM
webbee Member
Posts: 1149 From: Los Angeles, Ca. USA Registered: Jun 2000
Not if the transmission is just hanging there! The only thing preventing the transmission from sliding off the clutch/flywheel is the passenger side axle. Yes, the axle is still attached to the hub, so think of it as having to remove the transmission from the axle!
I think your problem is the axel is attached to the hub and the tranny/axel are cocked, preventing you from poping it out. Take the axel off the hub so it is free, then try the pry bar. You may have to support the hub end so that the axel isn't putting any pressure on the snap ring.
IP: Logged
04:13 PM
Sep 25th, 2004
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Thanks for your suggestions, Webbee. I didn't want to have to take off either of the hubs as I don't have a deep socket for that large nut, but if it turns out I need to, I'll get the socket. It didn't seem to me that the axle assembly was cocked off to one side, but it's certainly possible. I'll report back when I have a chance to do battle with the Fiero again this week.
You should be able to provide the same degree of axle freedom by unbolting the tie-rod from the knuckle, ebrake cable, and the lower balljoint. If you need more freedom, remove the three bolts at the strut tower to completely free the suspension from the car.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
IP: Logged
07:42 PM
Sep 26th, 2004
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Thanks Rick. Of course, what you've described is what I've already done to the driver's side to make room for the tranny to slide out. There was supposed to be less to do on the passenger side!
Thanks Rick. Of course, what you've described is what I've already done to the driver's side to make room for the tranny to slide out. There was supposed to be less to do on the passenger side!
Let us know how it turns out and what you finally found to work. Your situation seems to be unique.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
IP: Logged
05:28 PM
Oct 4th, 2004
Patrick Member
Posts: 38655 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I got a chance to work on the Fiero today, and I was finally able to pop the remaining axle out of the tranny. I guess everyone now wants to know how I did it!
I wanted to use steady force with a pry bar while tapping the end of the bar with a hammer. The problem I had before when I tried this, was that the end of the bar by the axle would always slide away from the axle. So I had the brainstorm to put a tranny-mount bolt back in the tranny near the axle. The bolt was in a place that prevented the bar from sliding away from the axle as I pried on the bar. One good tap on the bar with a hammer while I did this and the axle popped right out.
It was still a challenge getting the tranny out the wheel well opening without catching on something or another. And the engine kept wanting to drift towards the trunk as I was doing this, so keeping a close eye on the throttle body and all it's fragile protrusions was absolutely necessary.
I can see it's going to be fun trying to line the clutch and tranny back up with the engine during reassembly. It would sure be nice to have the proper hoists and jacks etc.
Thanks again to everyone who took the time to post in this thread. It was very much appreciated!