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What Is The Best Way To Remove Seized Spark Plugs? by Fieros_Forever
Started on: 09-01-2004 02:32 AM
Replies: 19
Last post by: Arns85GT on 09-03-2004 12:17 PM
Fieros_Forever
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Report this Post09-01-2004 02:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fieros_ForeverSend a Private Message to Fieros_ForeverDirect Link to This Post
I am replacing the spark plugs, and have gotten 4 of the 6 plugs installed, only to find the fifth one has seized(I'm unsure about the 6th one)I have worked on it for a couple of hours, and finally decided to walk away for awhile. I have been thinking about spraying WD-40 down into the recess that houses the plug. Brute force is not working, and I'm afraid if I apply much more pressure it is going to sheer the plug off. These are the ones agains the firewall, and that is one thing I DON'T want to do.

I know that some of you 3.1 conversion guys have had to deal with the problem with the aluminum heads of the 3.1, so I thought someone here could offer suggestions. Do the same things work on aluminum heads?

F.W.I.W, I always put anti-seize on all spark plugs, so once(if) these are out, I should not have the same problem the next time. Whoever changed them last did not afford that luxury to me. I hate to even think of the O2 sensor.

All help is welcome.

-FF
1986 Fiero 2M6

[This message has been edited by Fieros_Forever (edited 09-01-2004).]

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Trekker
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Report this Post09-01-2004 06:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TrekkerClick Here to visit Trekker's HomePageSend a Private Message to TrekkerDirect Link to This Post
There was a thread about this a while back, so if you search a little you'll find some good suggestions. I myself didn't find it until after shearing off two of my 17 year old plugs (bought it from the original owner), and having to use an easy out to remove what had been left behind!
Good luck!

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Fiarri??? No....... FI - ER - O !
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Paul Prince
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Report this Post09-01-2004 06:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Paul PrinceSend a Private Message to Paul PrinceDirect Link to This Post
Get some PB Blaster from your local parts store, it works much better than WD-40. Spray the hole and let it set, in fact spray it several times over a couple days. Use the correct spark plug socket. Also make sure the area in the seat is clean.
Be prepared, it is possible it will break off and you may have to take the head off, I hope not, but it happens. Good luck......Paul

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1MohrFiero
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Report this Post09-01-2004 06:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1MohrFieroSend a Private Message to 1MohrFieroDirect Link to This Post
I can second what Paul says, PB Blaster is more effective than WD-40. Don't worry if the insulator (center) of the plug comes out (happens a lot to Fieros). That will make getting the plug out easier. If it happens you just insert a large ease out and twist the hull out. Where in Ala are you?

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JT6666
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Report this Post09-01-2004 06:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JT6666Send a Private Message to JT6666Direct Link to This Post
The label on PB BLASTER said it had a high flash point- the only warning reguarding being flammable was to keep away from open flames, so I guess it's OK to spray it on and drive.
I was wondering if there was any advantage to removing stubborn plugs while the engine was hot/warm rather than stone cold?
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RickN
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Report this Post09-01-2004 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RickNSend a Private Message to RickNDirect Link to This Post
WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, just a metal protector and lubricant. Get a real penetrating oil and let it stand for a day or so. I've not got much experience with PB Blaster as others have but NAPA sells very good penetrants.

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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-01-2004 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
PB Blaster or Release-All here in Canada.

You need to soak them for at least 24 hours. When you park the car, let it soak in overnite.

I wouldn't drive it after soaking.

When I removed my exhaust bolts, I soaked them for 2 weeks. Excessive yes, but effective yes.

Also, getting back there is hard if you are on the front bank of cylinders. I use a 16" length of pipe over the handle of my ratchet if I can't get my power bar in.

Nice even pull on a long lever after a soaking and they should come.

Good luck

Arn

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fuzz
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Report this Post09-01-2004 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fuzzSend a Private Message to fuzzDirect Link to This Post
Use a good penetrant and let it sit for awhile. The number one thing I will pass on to you is when you are attempting to remove the plug use steady pressure on the wrench. The plug is usually broken off when you jerk on the wrench. And good luck
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Graudefas
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Report this Post09-01-2004 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GraudefasSend a Private Message to GraudefasDirect Link to This Post
One thing I have found very effective is a butterfly (right-angle) impact wrench and impact socket. You'll have to be underneath, probably, or very dextrous, but letting the thing sit there and hammer away on the plugs for several minutes (works great on exhaust bolts, too) EVENTUALLY works them free. It's the vibration, coupled with PB blaster that does the trick.

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jetman
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Report this Post09-01-2004 12:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
It goes with out saying but I will mention it anyways for the new guys.
The firewall side plug wells accumulate allot of debris and also are prone to a build up of rust. It always helps your cause if you clear away as much as possable with an air hose or a pick so you can get the socket on all the way. This helps prevent stuff from getting into the cylinders too.
A small mirror helps you see your target also.
The PB Blaster gets my vote also as I have sprayed enough to pool up in the plug wells around the plugs and soak overnight. Do this for a week or so if you can. I soaked mine about 30 minutes after a drive so the engine was warm but not hot.
My best friend for this opperation is a swivell head socket wrench, it seems that I can get good leverage in that tight area. When we had a lift at work, I tried to work from below, had some elbow room but it was hard to see the plugs past the exhaust manifold. Even though I use a swivel head socket wrench I allways try to keep as square to the plug as possable.
Some folks here have said that you can gain some extra working room by removing the deck lid, I never had to but my plugs were not 17 years old either.
Good luck to you, we are all pulling for you here.

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jetman
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s550w
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Report this Post09-01-2004 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for s550wSend a Private Message to s550wDirect Link to This Post
You asked about heating the engine. My experience is that it is easier to remove plugs with a warm engine. I have always been told to remove plugs with the engine warm to prevent damage to the threads (No scientific prove). Definitely clean real well since the socket gets better leverage if it isn't "barely" on. .
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Report this Post09-01-2004 11:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sergioazevedoSend a Private Message to sergioazevedoDirect Link to This Post
3.1 are a pain in the ass. just keep putting force i have never broken the plug base. i just break the ceramic.
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ka4nkf
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Report this Post09-01-2004 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ka4nkfSend a Private Message to ka4nkfDirect Link to This Post
also try to loosen and then try to tighten do this back and forth and it may come out.
Don
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Fieros_Forever
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Report this Post09-02-2004 02:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fieros_ForeverSend a Private Message to Fieros_ForeverDirect Link to This Post
Well here is an update:

Since PB Blaster seems to be the consensus of what to use to penetrate it, I stopped by the auto parts store on the way home from work and picked up a large can.

I soaked the offending plug very well, so we will let it sit until tommorow afternoon and see what happens when we try it again. I'll have to say that it was interesting getting the spray down the sparkplug hole. I took one splash to the eye, but was wearing my glasses. I had to change my clothes before I could spray it(I wear dress clothes to work) and it was after dark when I sprayed it, so I must have looked funny crawling around in the engine bay with my feet it the air.

I'll post an update tommorrow when I find out if this is going to work, or if I am going to need to spray it again and allow it to sit longer.

"+"'s all around! Thanks for the help and support so far! I'll post an update tommorrow.

-FF
1986 Fiero 2M6

[This message has been edited by Fieros_Forever (edited 09-02-2004).]

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Fieros_Forever
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Report this Post09-02-2004 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fieros_ForeverSend a Private Message to Fieros_ForeverDirect Link to This Post

Fieros_Forever

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Double Post

[This message has been edited by Fieros_Forever (edited 09-03-2004).]

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1MohrFiero
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Report this Post09-02-2004 06:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1MohrFieroSend a Private Message to 1MohrFieroDirect Link to This Post
Spray it again in the morning and let it soak some more before you attack it. Use a good quality six point socket too. Good luck.
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intlcutlass
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Report this Post09-02-2004 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for intlcutlassSend a Private Message to intlcutlassDirect Link to This Post
I had the same problem.....

Solution guaranteed to work!!!

I had a set of the craftsman easy outs. They look like reverse threaded sockets that you can put a wrench on the outside of, and as you turn the damaged nut , the easy out digs in further...

Anyway.... I used one of those welded to the top of a spare spark plug socket, and ground smooth so it would fit back there on the firewall side of things. Mine was truly screwed. It was seized in there big time. The edges were all rounded. My V6 had 98K at the time, and I could just tell this was one of the original plugs....

I poped this easy out/plug socket on there, ... no challenge , it turned right out......

Good luck.....

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Fieros_Forever
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Report this Post09-03-2004 01:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fieros_ForeverSend a Private Message to Fieros_ForeverDirect Link to This Post
Tonights update is......

IT WORKED!!

The PB Blaster freed it right up! After soaking for 24 hours, a steady pressure got it moving.

It was so good to feel it moving, knowing that I was not going to have major problems with the little fellow. Removing the head would have taken awhile, and I would have missed drivng the little guy. After that I only had to worry about one more, and it came out with a little extra effort. I don't think these were the first set, but it was probably the second. The gap on some of them was worn to as much as .10 off. She now has a fresh set of spark plugs, done the RIGHT way with silicone in the spark plug boots, and anti-seize on the plugs. I also have some major scrapes on my forearms, but they will vanish with time.

A BIG THANK YOU to all that helped me out. That is why I love this forum. There is always someone who actually knows what they are talking about readily avalible and willing to help. Your the best, guys!

I have given everyone who contributed a "+". You all deserve it.

-FF
1986 Fiero 2M6

[This message has been edited by Fieros_Forever (edited 09-03-2004).]

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jetman
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Report this Post09-03-2004 08:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Way to go!
Great to hear a success story!
PB Blaster is my best friend.
jet
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post09-03-2004 12:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
Congratulations.

Nasty job and you are now part of a fraternity.

Arn

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