I am having a problem with my front passenger side caliper. I was adding cross drilled rotors to the front of my car and when I put on different calipers it stays locked on the one side. I bled the system after adding the newer calipers. The drivers side works perfect, but the passenger side will stay locked when the brakes are applies. Do I still have air in the line or something? Or is the passenger side caliper not working? Any tips as to what to look for would be great. Did I bleed the calipers wrong by chance?

Thanks Ken

That could be the calipers sliders binding, or possibly a pinched or bad brake hose.

Matt

Brake lines are in great shape. I took the caliper back off and the pads and pushed in the caliper part then re-installed the pads and the caliper. After that the tire will spin freely until you hit the brakes then it will stay stuck. I hoped that maybe if I drove it around the block it would come undone, but instead it just made smoke.

Thanks Ken

I just had the same problem with my pass side caliper...

It could be the check valve in the master cylinder or more likely a hosed up caliper.

In my situation I had a caliper that sat for years on worn down pads. I put on brand new rotors and new pads and compressed the caliper piston back in. The piston hadn't been that deep in the bore in around 10 years. The first time I applied the brakes, it siezed. I pushed it back a couple of times with a clamp, but it kept seizing.

www.autopartsgiant.com

Unloaded rebuilt calipers for $19.80 each, core charge $10.00.

Nice, clean and the paint adheres much better.

-Jeff

quote Originally posted by MooCow: Brake lines are in great shape. I took the caliper back off and the pads and pushed in the caliper part then re-installed the pads and the caliper. After that the tire will spin freely until you hit the brakes then it will stay stuck. I hoped that maybe if I drove it around the block it would come undone, but instead it just made smoke. Thanks Ken

You had mentioned you installed newer calipers but did not say if you were going with an oem type or trying something different. I would re-install the old caliper if it was in working order and see if the problem goes away. If it does then your problem is not in the master cylinder or line and lies within the new caliper.
If the problem is in the new caliper then it either is not mounting straight causing a bind, the slides are sticking and causing a bind or what I believe to be most likely, the piston in the caliper is not returning when the fluid pressure is released. When you drive it the problem would worsen due to heat building up.
Hope this helps,

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85 GT 4-speed
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Richey

open the bleeder screw on that side and see if it lets go of the rotor.

if it does then it's probably a bad hose

if it doesn't then the caliper is binding somewhere

Thanks for all the tips. I would put back on the old caliper, but I can't because I can't push the piston back in. I would put on a drivers side caliper, but the hose won't fit because its farther down. I will open the bleeder valve to see if the caliper looses up or not. The piston on that caliper pushed down pretty easily just like the other side when I go push it in. Just as soon as the brake is applied that it gets stuck and won't go back down. Could I simply put on the drivers side caliper that I know works and bleed it, then have someone push the brake in as I watch the piston move in and out? Wouldn't that help narrow my problem down?

Thanks Ken

Chances are the hose internally collapsed when you were pulling the caliper off. Even if it looks ok on the outside, it can still be bad. They act like one way valves when that do that. I'd just get new front hoses, and try that first...

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Ditto on the faulty hose scenario. The rubber liner has probably delaminated and is now acting like a check valve, preventing fluid from returning back form the caliper until you apply pressure to the piston to push it back in. The definitive test for this is to open the bleeder when the caliper is locked. If fluid comes out and the caliper releases then the hose has delaminated.

JazzMan

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: open the bleeder screw on that side and see if it lets go of the rotor. if it does then it's probably a bad hose if it doesn't then the caliper is binding somewhere

WHACK!!!!!
Stratohacker smacks self in forehead for forgetting to point out the easiest way to check the hose.
What Buddycraigg (note 2 g's this time lesson learned) and Jazzman have stated is the easiest way to verify the hose issue.
Richey

quote Originally posted by STRATOHACKER: WHACK!!!!! Stratohacker smacks self in forehead for forgetting to point out the easiest way to check the hose. What Buddycraigg (note 2 g's this time lesson learned) and Jazzman have stated is the easiest way to verify the hose issue. Richey

the two G's are happy to be reconized

After replacing the pads on my LF caliper it started sticking exactly like youres. I finally took it off popped the piston out cleaned the inside of the bore and lightly sanded the piston with fine emery cloth. Put it back together and it works fine. Over time a sludge builds up inside the caliper and needs to be removed. Costs noting but time to clean im up.

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85 GT 4 speed 2.8L auto X'er

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[This message has been edited by red85gt (edited 06-17-2004).]