There seems to be many methods of adjusting the hydraulic lifters on the Fiero V6. Adjust them too tight and you may backfire or even collapse a lifter, adjust them too loose and you've got some bad ticking noise. So what is your favorite method.?
It's come time for me to do a lifter adjustment but the last time it was done the engine was apart and it was easy to locate the base circle of the cam. Now the engine is in the car, so I will remove the top and middle plenums, then the valve covers and start the adjustment procedure. My technique is to use a distributor cap with the top cut off to position each cylnder at TDC. SInce the timing is set at 10*BTC the rotor will need to be about 1 /4 inch past the mid point of the firing positon to set true TDC. I will then adjust one cylinder at a time in the firing sequence, wiggling the push rod side to side then up and down until no slack is felt and then turning the adjustment nut 1 1/2 turns more.
The question that I have is about the procedure outlined in the Helms manual. It claims that all lifters can be adjusted in just two positions, TDC and 180*. Has anyone tried this method and does it work? Does anyone have an easier technique of adjusting lifters while the engine is in the car?

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When I was adjusting my lifters on the engine stand I found a position that let me adjust 5 of 6 cylinders, but I don't remember. Safest bet in the car is to use the procedure you outlined.

JazzMan

Yes, all the valves can be gotten with two positions on the crankshaft but if I remember correctly it is TDC on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder for half the valves and then +360 degrees for the rest of the valves.

Dennis, when I asked basically the same question everyone told me that 1 1/2 turns after zero lash was too much and reccomended 3/4 turn. You might want to check further unless you have personally been using 1 1/2. I know in the helms manual they say 1 1/2 but all the forum members that responded said that was too tight. My problem was being able to determine how much force to use to try to spin the pushrod. As a measurement that seems rather subjective.

I have used the GM manual method which is the rotate to TDC#1 adjust 6 valves, rotate to TDC#4 adjust the rest. It works but I think your method is more accurate. I also do not like the 1 1/2 turn from zero lash. I have used the 3/4 turn and it is quiet.
Crane Cams website has a method they use, and say it is the only way to adjust hydraulic lifters.........Paul

I've used the service manual method of doing 1/2 of the rockers at TDC #1, then turning the crank to TDC #4, and doing the other 1/2. there is no faster way. I've also done the adjusting at the firing position, by using the istributer. takes awhile, but works. I've also done it as described by cam manufacturers. ug. you'll be cranking all day doing it their way. you end up turning the crank almost two full cranks, just for one cylinder. but, the service manual method is the quickest. just make sure you start at TDC #1, not TDC #4. then, the finding zero lash....I've done it by the twirling method described in the service manual everytime, then my guessed lash. I've done 1/2 turn - was noisy. I've done 1-1/2 turn - seemed OK, no collapsed lifters. I've done 1 turn - also seemed OK. NOW, I have just wrecked my 3rd cam. SO, I dont know what the duck I am doing wrong. I beleive it to be a spring binding problem - going to replace the springs this time. anyways - I've had the best luck with 1 turn after zero lash. 1/2 turn has always been to noisy, 1-1/2 seemed OK.

why and when would a peep perform this procedure?
my V6 has 80K miles on it - does this need to be done? is there some indication the engine gives off when its time?
i didn't think one had to adjust hydraulic lifters.
i'm bright, just inexperienced, and new to engine mechanics.

quote Originally posted by F13R0GRRL85: why and when would a peep perform this procedure? my V6 has 80K miles on it - does this need to be done? is there some indication the engine gives off when its time? i didn't think one had to adjust hydraulic lifters. i'm bright, just inexperienced, and new to engine mechanics.

When you install a new cam or different rockers, or new lifters, pushrods. I have seen Fiero's with over 200K miles with the original valve train.................Paul

If you adjust the valvetrain correctly, when you first install the parts, you shouldn't have to ever do it again. That is the beauty of hydraulic lifters, they pump themself up to make up for wear.

I am going to be doing this to my v6 next week, mine had a slight valve tick, sounded like it was comming from both sides. Wat has motivated me to do this sooner is now it sounds like cyl #1 is very loose, it sounds like a rattling now more than a ticking

Well my car has horrible lifter chatter from time to time, but after about 1 minute, it all goes away, comes on really sporadically, and is quite embarrassing, don't know if i trust me or my dad to do it though.

I think the standard is 1 and one half tunrs once the play has been eliminated in the push rod. This is what I use on all the engines that I've done in the past unless utherwise stated in a manual.
This method has yet to fail me. I've done countless rebuilds on SBC, 3.8L Olds cutlass, 460 ford, 351C, etc.....

Now that Ive reassembled my 2.8 in my 85 gt, incorrectly set push rods were my last concern.

mike

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1.5 turns is the proper amount. I measured the geometry and lifter parts and determined that 1.5 turns put the lifter poppet at the halfway mark. The biggest problem most people have is determining where the zero lash point (no slack) is in the adjustment. Most can't feel the slight change in resistance as they twirl the pushrod while tightening the rocker adjustment nut. I find that it's easier to click the pushrod sideways back and forth as I tighten the nut, and the zero lash point is very obvious by how it sounds and feels.

JazzMan

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: 1.5 turns is the proper amount. I measured the geometry and lifter parts and determined that 1.5 turns put the lifter poppet at the halfway mark. The biggest problem most people have is determining where the zero lash point (no slack) is in the adjustment. Most can't feel the slight change in resistance as they twirl the pushrod while tightening the rocker adjustment nut. I find that it's easier to click the pushrod sideways back and forth as I tighten the nut, and the zero lash point is very obvious by how it sounds and feels. JazzMan

YUP. thats me. I do the twirling, and know I over shoot, I guess thats why I like 1 turn.....
but, I will try the clicking sideways, and see how that goes.