Is there a special tool needed to remove the o2 sensor on the 2.8? Sorry for the dumb question but I thought there was.....tia!

yes. they make a special notched socket for 3/8" ratchets. Autozone and Advance will rent them. you pay a deposit and take the tool. when youre done you bring it back, show your recipt and get your deposit back.

------------------

87 GT Auto AIM: derangedsheep | email: elcodjsteveo@yahoo.com
View my Award Winning Fiero Presentation HERE
If you want to check out my full presentation, look for me at Carlisle I will have a laptop. You will know my car when you see it. There will be something distinctive.

You really don't need a special tool. Just use a box end 19mm or 3/4" wrench and unscrew it. Not hard at all (just unplug it first!) .

------------------

thanks much for the replys!!! I will replace it tomorrow.....I hope

Well, the open end wrench may or may not work fine, depending how long the sensor has been in there, and how much corrosion there is. I do find the socket a little awkward to use, but it keeps from rounding the sensor off. I also prefer the split socket, because you can use a torque wrench on it.

BTW......it helps if you run the car for a minute or two before removing the O2 sensor.

Good luck....it really is an easy job and something that needs to be done on a semi-regualr basis.

BTW, i will be doing this soon. Is there a torque spec for it? Or should i just tighten it down really well?

Box end wrench will work fine . If you have a hard time , i have applied heat with a propane bottle . Heat around the outter edge of threaded hole . It will come out very easy this way.

quote Originally posted by derangedsheep: BTW, i will be doing this soon. Is there a torque spec for it? Or should i just tighten it down really well?

There probably is a specific torque spec (everything has one), but I just tighten it until it is snug. As long as it seals up OK, there is no real danger in not being "properly" torqued.

Sometimes they can be a bugger to get out, and the split and 12 point sockets slip. If you have a new sensor to install, you can smash the wire / shielded end off and use a regular 6 pt shallow socket to get it off.

The correct size is 22mm, or 7/8".

Another thing you might try before taking it off is applying a little PB Blaster (or any other bolt/nut lubricant designed to help remove rusted equipment), say the day or week before. When I changed my O2 sensor a few weeks ago, I figured I was in for a fight, so I sprayed some on a week beforehand...I had the luxury of being able to not have to drive it...anyway, I get ready and it just came out like any other bolt, not very typical for exhaust equipment. I threw some high temp anti-seize on the new one and put it in...then read in the directions later that AC Delcos already have anti-seize on them. Oh well.

Ben
88 GT

I remove the O2 connector, slip a 3/4" box wrench over the O2 nut and use "elbow grease". I haven't seem one that hasn't come loose yet. As the above posts indicate the sensor will be easier to remove when the pipe is hot. BE SURE TO USE ONLY AC DELCO O2 sensors or Bosch as a reluctant alternative.. The response time of the Delco is far superior than anything that I've monitored. The output counts of the Bosch are slower but it's a decent sensor. Most others that I've tried work like crap.

------------------
87GT 3.4 Turbo Best 0-60 5.2 seconds
http://www.turbochargerpower.com/turbo.htm

I did the installation like this,
I actually used two deep well sockets, one on top of the other. I ran the O2 wire through the first socket and tucked it into the second sockets cavity.
The first socket gripped the O-2 sensor and the ratchet had the second socket which turned the first socket.
Never knew any better until the auto parts man tried to sell me the "special" tool of which I had a good laugh. I later learned that not every socket has a 6-side hex end to do this with.