I am getting ready to do a full brake job. ie rotors, pad, ss braided lines, and barings. The rotors did not come with either baring in them. I am wondering how the barings go in. I know that the cone shaped one just pops in and out but I don't know about the other one. Anyone give me some hints?

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85 GT 4 SPD
Number 53715 of 76371
Best 1/4 15.816 @ 84.72

Accel 8.8mm wires, Accel 300+ Ignition box, Blaster Coil, NGK UR5, K&N, Short Shifter, High flow cat, Monochrome Caracus red, KYB shocks/struts, ST lowering springs, Poly Dogbone.

Coulee Region Fieros member(couleefiero.tripod.com)

well i just took the rear bearing, packed it with grease (make sure you do it right) sat it in and hammered the seal in level with the rotor part. slid the rotor on the spindle, put in the other bearing, tighted the nut until it was getting hard to spin the rotor by hand, then backed off a little bit (1/2 turn i think) put thje cotter pin in, assembled the rest and drove off

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Carbed 2.9 engine build in progress. forged pistons, crane cam, fully balanced, ARP bolts, double roller timing chain and more
--Adam--
IM AOL: FieroGT5speed

Your FRONT HUBS have two bearing sets in each hub, an inner and an outer. Each of these sets have two components, the "cup" (or race) and the "cone". The cone is the piece with all the little roller bearings in them, the cup is the tapered, polished thing that the bearings roll in.

The Cones just slip into the cups and then are a snug slip fit over the spindle. The Cups are a medium drive in fit into the hubs. What that means is that you can normally drive them into the hub with a hammer and the proper tools with little difficulty but once they're in they will be held in place very firmly. Depending on how tight the fit is, you may be able to stick the hubs in an oven for 30 minutes or so at 250-300 degrees and the Cup in the freezer for about the same amount of time and they may drop right in. Keep in mind if there's any oil or grease in the hub at all, and you use your wife's oven, she probably won't speak to you for quite a while and you may get to buy her a new oven.

If you look in the hubs it may have come with the cups installed in it already. If not, then you'll have to install them if they came bare.

Seriously, since I moved an old oven into the shop, I use it CONSTANTLY for a multitude of things.

John Stricker

I you're gonna hammer in the bearings, try using a piece of brass - it's softer than the bearing metal so it wont damage it - though do a criss cross pattern..... OR, use a special tool made for the job,

quote Originally posted by Spyhunter: I you're gonna hammer in the bearings, try using a piece of brass - it's softer than the bearing metal so it wont damage it - though do a criss cross pattern..... OR, use a special tool made for the job,

Hammer in the bearings? When you mean 'bearings' I hope you mean 'bearing seal'. That should be the only thing you hammer in.... A piece of brass would work fine. I used a block of wood and my 4lb. BFH. Now if we are talking bearing race, then yeah, I can see how you'd need the brass drift or the special race bearing install tool. The rotors I bought already had the bearing race installed, so that was one less step for me to worry about.

When you go to pack the bearings w/ grease, I'd recommend getting the bearing packing tool ($20 from Sears) made by Lyle, INC. (?) When you tighten the hub nut, rotate the hub assembly in the direction of travel until the hub no longer rotates. Back of the nut just enough until the hub assembly rotates again and the cotter pin hole lines up. It is important to note, if your bearings aren't tight enough, the rotor will wiggle and you'll feel it @ highway speeds (speaking from experience). Test to make sure you don't have excessive play. Wiggling from the 6 & 12 o'clock position. If rotor doesn't wiggle AND still spins, you are golden.

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-jason
'87SE
'88GT (5spd)
'90GTZ

quote If you're gonna hammer in the bearings, try using a piece of brass

I hope you meant bearing races, not bearings.