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charging wire upgrade, remove fuse link? OK?? by DjDraggin
Started on: 02-28-2004 10:55 PM
Replies: 12
Last post by: fiero86SE28 on 02-29-2004 09:43 PM
DjDraggin
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Report this Post02-28-2004 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DjDragginSend a Private Message to DjDragginDirect Link to This Post
Yep, searched in search and nothing so time for your help. I'd like to bump the gauge of wire from my Alt to the battery block up in size, well down.. And I think my fuseable link is what was giving me hell. So Do I need one? I'm doing a swap in a month or two so the engine wont be in for much longer.
Can I just wire up a new line from the Alt up to where it branches off for the battery? Thanks and I'll be doing this soon. While you reply I'll be prepping a wire, if this is ok.. thank you!!!

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theogre
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Report this Post02-28-2004 11:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Why... The OE wiring wil handle any alt the car was able to run. The only reason to even bother is if you are using a huge aftermarket unit AND you are actually drawing the max amps from it.
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GTDude
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Report this Post02-28-2004 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GTDudeDirect Link to This Post
but to answer your question......the fuseable link acts just as a fuse. You can burn alot of wiring if you don't use the fuseable link.

PHIL

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jron
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Report this Post02-28-2004 11:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jronDirect Link to This Post
I had a friend use a peice of standard wire for fuselink,melted the whole harness under hood. Dealer wanted $700.00 to replace it.
You can do it, but if something goes wrong this is what can happen.

Good luck

Jim

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DjDraggin
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Report this Post02-28-2004 11:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DjDragginSend a Private Message to DjDragginDirect Link to This Post
How can I tell if its bad? and what do I do if it is? the wiring around it is pretty wasted. and the car went haywire on me one rainy night and hasnt been the same. New battery,alt and wiring from front to back. This is the only factory wire left. Thanks
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GTDude
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Report this Post02-28-2004 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GTDudeDirect Link to This Post
I would solder pieces of fuseable link of the proper gauge into the burned harness,carefully making sure to keep the wires correct. They don't have to be long, but I would cut back far enough to be sure that I didn't have any burned links. I guess you know the fuseable links are located on the rh side just behind the battery. Good luck.

Phil

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GM auto tech for 27 years. Specializing in electrical and computer problems. Now on workers comp. and it looks like I will be unable to return to work as a tech.

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Mike Smith
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Report this Post02-29-2004 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike SmithSend a Private Message to Mike SmithDirect Link to This Post
Can fusable links be replaced with blade style fuses?
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spark1
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Report this Post02-29-2004 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
Yes, but why would you want to? The fuse holder and fuse would cost more than the link and corrosion on the contacts could be a problem. Fusible links are cheap, reliable and usually are good for the life of a car.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 02-29-2004).]

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Electrathon
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Report this Post02-29-2004 12:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DjDraggin:

How can I tell if its bad? and what do I do if it is? the wiring around it is pretty wasted. and the car went haywire on me one rainy night and hasnt been the same. New battery,alt and wiring from front to back. This is the only factory wire left. Thanks

You tell if it is bad by pulling on it. If it stretches it is bad. It is just a piece of wire with special insulation. It is two guages of wire smaller than the wire it is protecting. If you are replacing it, the link is 6" long. Use good quality crimp conectors, no cheap ones.

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DjDraggin
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Report this Post02-29-2004 03:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DjDragginSend a Private Message to DjDragginDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by spark1:

Yes, but why would you want to? The fuse holder and fuse would cost more than the link and corrosion on the contacts could be a problem. Fusible links are cheap, reliable and usually are good for the life of a car.

LOL key words in here "corrosion on the contacts" Yep .. I already have some on my power splitter Thats only 2 months old!! (alum is bad in open ellements) And I had a 4 gauge wire that got a lil toasty but not melted. I ran a new line from the starter up, Used a high grade gold audio power block to split it and rechecked and coated all my connections and volla!!! I have 14 Volts again!! BTW I left the old Alt power wire alone, just coated it in some liquid tape. Thank you all for your advice, though it slightly assisted in my car, I'm sure it'll really help someone else.. L8!!!
BTW V6 Autos and changing Alts IS A PNTFA!!!! But I'm getting better at it!! LOL 6th times a charm and 3 less cuts on my arms!!

[This message has been edited by DjDraggin (edited 02-29-2004).]

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theogre
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Report this Post02-29-2004 03:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
NEVER solder fuse links!!!!! This will change the value of the fuse. The link won't blow when it should.

They must be installed with good crimps and weather proofed. The best thing to use is the self sealing heat shrink tubing. It has an adhesive in it that melts when you shrink it. (You can get crimps with this already on them or use bare crimps and loose tubing.)

Yes, they do make fuses that could be used instead but I wouldn't do that. Especially in the extrememly wet area that is the Fiero engine bay.

Fuse links can be bad before they actually burn. The problem is water gets into them and starts corrosion. They can develope enough resistance to be a pain for quite awhile before they blow out. Once they corrode enough, you will do something that pulls some amps, like turn on the headlamps, and the link will fry off. This sort of failure is common when links are mounted to the starter or in any other wet area.

With the problem descibed above...

I would start by replacing both battery cables and the braided ground strap. Cables that look good often are not. Don't bother with an OHM meter... the wire is too heavy for that to be a useful test. I use ACDelco battery cables whenever I can. They give you enough thin wire to trim it to length so there are no splices in it. most other brands give you about 3 inches of thin wire.

Make sure the main junction under C500 is clean and tight.

Check all the connections on the alt and have the alt tested. You can have that done free at many parts stores and other places.

After that replace the main cable for the alt. This isn't as easy as it sounds. You have to use a high quality wire, preferably with high temperature insultion. Crimpling terminals reliably on large wire can be difficult by hand. I put the crimps onto the normal wire and solder them, leaving the one splice open for the fuse link. (Again, you musn't solder fuse links.) I then climp the fuse link in and cover with weather proof heat shrink.

Keep in mind you also have to crimp in the sense wire that goes from the side if the alt to the main wire. Most people crimp that wire into the big lug for the output stud with the main wire. Make sure you leave enough slack that you can unplug the side connector without undoing the main output post.

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spark1
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Report this Post02-29-2004 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
Gotta disagree with Ogre on this one. When installing the Fusible Links, the wire terminals should be crimped, then soldered, and then insulated with shrinkable tubing Soldering will not change the resistance of fusible link wire except for the ˝" or so on each end where the solder will wick in. Fusible link wire is just stranded copper wire with Hypalon® high temperature insulation. The reason for soldering is to reduce the splice resistance and to fill voids to prevent moisture ingress
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fiero86SE28
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Report this Post02-29-2004 09:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero86SE28Send a Private Message to fiero86SE28Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by spark1:

Yes, but why would you want to? The fuse holder and fuse would cost more than the link and corrosion on the contacts could be a problem. Fusible links are cheap, reliable and usually are good for the life of a car.

Lots of opinions out there on fusible-links. My 1st experience with one had me believing I had a wire harness fire. Smoke everywhere. I guess that was the insulation burnig but what a breath taking scare. Needless to say I was a novice at this new-found technology of "Burn the wire to save the car". After the smoke cleared I discovered a section of wire missing and several other wires near it that said "fusible link" . "CLUE?" I replaced this section with wire and a fuse after finding no apparant reason for the failure. If I had my way I would replace all the F/L and relocate with fuses in a dry place. The average motor head usually carrys fuses not fusible links.
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