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Clutch Line (Need help ASAP!) by Razor_Wing
Started on: 01-01-2004 03:10 PM
Replies: 2
Last post by: pops on 01-01-2004 03:57 PM
Razor_Wing
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From: Blowing Rock, NC, USA
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Report this Post01-01-2004 03:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Razor_WingSend a Private Message to Razor_WingDirect Link to This Post
Ok, well...installing the new slave today did'nt go too well. The line snaped trying to disonccect it from the old slave. I figure seice the slave is REAL nasty, that I might as well replace the whole line (the master was done this summer) because it's probly as nasty! I looked on the fiero store's site, and they have 2 listed, Desighn 1 and Desighn 2. Mine has the Desighn 2 Master on it. But the Desighn 2 line is $159.95 ( )!!! The Desighn 1 is only $89.95. I smell a scam going on here! How much diffrent are they???? And will the line inculde everything from the master to the slave? Even the steel braided and it's connectors? Thx for the help in advance!

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www.freewebs.com/fierogti

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STRATOHACKER
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Report this Post01-01-2004 03:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for STRATOHACKERSend a Private Message to STRATOHACKERDirect Link to This Post
Go to fierodave.com he has original GM cutch lines for musch less.
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pops
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Report this Post01-01-2004 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for popsSend a Private Message to popsDirect Link to This Post
At the top of this page is a spot called Fiero Parts Vendors. Click on it and go down to Fiero Dave. He sells a clutch line for $56. I put one in my car. Works great. It takes a little bending at the master cylinder end, but no sweat. Well, that's a lie. Installing it is a major PITA. It will take all day at best. The best way is to remove the pan in the front trunk. Mean, but not as mean as trying to do it with the pan in. You'll need to have the rear end up on stands. Tie a piece of string to the old one as you pull it out. It will help you get the new one in where it belongs. All the lines go down through a rubber gizmo which is held by two screws you get from the bottom. Easy with the pan out, a ***** with it in. I did mine without removing the pan and I'll never try that again. Bleed the slave cylinder before you put it in. Submerge the connector end in fluid and push the shaft all the way in and release it several times. When you think it's been done thoroughly, you'll still get some more bubbles. Be sure you don't have a cheap parts store cylinder. A cylinder with cup seals just won't work. You'll wind up bleeding it almost daily. Fiero store sells one for $50 which works great. I use a 2 gallon garden sprayer to bleed the line. Cut off the nozzel, push a piece of hose over it, and bleed from the back. (Put the bleeder directly on the line and bleed it without the slave cylinder.) Suck the fluid out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Keep going long after the bubbles stop. Now hook up the slave cylinder, which should be bled and ready to go. DON"T TOUCH THE PEDAL! Without anything for the cylinder to work against, you can build up enough pressure to burst the hose. With the cylinder in place, it won't move far enough to bottom out. Pushing the pedal before you finish bleeding will also force the air in the connector into the cylinder. Once everything is in place, have someone push the pedal after you open the bleeder. Close it immediatly and you should have a clutch. Good luck.

[This message has been edited by pops (edited 01-01-2004).]

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