I have a 85 Gt with ST lowering springs and KYB shocks and struts, I will be using it on auto-cross tracks (not street diving). I picked up some 15" wheels and need to know what tires will fit and perform. I'm leaning tords V700 Voctoracer but what size? I would also like some #'s for the alignment so i have a place to start. Aggressive specks are ok.

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Mike

85GT 4-Spd 3.4 Stroker, cam, ported intake exhaust and TB. Natural weight reduction in progress(rust).
My other toy: WWW.IcantDo55.com

What i like to use for autoX is the falkin azins. There the cheapest and best performers for the money. we use the stock 14" rims with a nice and low profile. nothing for the street but perfect for the track. im sure they sell it in 15 too. i would go with nothing under a 55 for profile if you want to auto X.

quote Originally posted by NINJAX: What i like to use for autoX is the falkin azins. There the cheapest and best performers for the money. we use the stock 14" rims with a nice and low profile. nothing for the street but perfect for the track. im sure they sell it in 15 too. i would go with nothing under a 55 for profile if you want to auto X.

Why nothing under a 55? I was thinking 225-50-15 amm around? Anyone else....ideas?

For cornering there are no tires that will make you car handle like Michelin pilots. I run 38-40lbs PSI for stiffer sidewalls....bumpy ride but O HOW THEY CORNER!!!

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1988 Gary Tucker (GT)

Recommendations is to purchase a heat tire probe and adjust tire pressure and suspension adjustments accordingly.
Grassroots Motorsports Magazine November 2002 Issue:
Race & Street Tire Test: Comparing all the hot rubber against each other and against the clock. Pages 70 - 82.

Street Tire: (The most Bang For The Buck)
1. Falken Azenis Sport (Very Cheap) (205/50R15 - $76)
2. BFGoodrich g-force T/A KD (Mega $$$) (205/50YR15 - $149)
3. Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 (205/50VR15 - $58)

"The Falken Azenis Sport offers strong performance for cheap money, while the BFGoodrich g-force T/A KD offers goods grip and no bad manners as a daily driven tire. Now that you are interested in a tire that can hold up to track events as well as turn a respectable time at an autocross, then try the Kumho ECSTA Supra 712. It offers good bang for the buck and should last a long time."

R-Compound Tire:
1. Hoosier A3503 (205/50ZR15 - $170)
2. Kumho ECSTA V700 (205/50R15 Shaved - $125)
3. Kumho V700 Victoracer (205/50R15 Shaved - $130)

"The race tires were significantly faster than the street tires showing why the fast guys run them. The reduced tread depth of the race-compound tire is just one part of the difference in traction, as internal construction also plays a big part. While the street tires have the ability to get soft at higher temperatures, this doesn't always equals to extra grip. If your class allows a DOT approved race tire, we recommend using one if you have the budget."

Spring Rate Changes
Modification Effect on Suspension
Increase front and rear rate Ride harshness increases; tires may not follow bumps causing reduced traction. Roll resistance increases.
Increase front rate only Front ride rate increases. Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or reducing oversteer.
Increase rear rate only Rear ride rate increases. Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or reducing understeer.
Decrease front and rear rate Ride harshness decreases; tires follow bumps more effectively, possibly improving traction. Roll resistance decreases.
Decrease front rate only Front ride rate decreases. Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer.
Decrease rear rate only Rear ride rate decreases. Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer.
Antiroll Bar Changes
Modification Effect on Suspension
Increase front rate Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or decreasing oversteer. May also reduce camber change, allowing better tire contact patch compliance with the road surface, reducing understeer.
Increase rear rate Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or decreasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, may also reduce camber change, allowing better contact patch compliance with road surface, reducing oversteer.
Decrease front rate Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer. More body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing understeer.
Decrease rear rate Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, more body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing oversteer.
Shock Absorber Changes
Modification Effect on Suspension
Increase rebound and bump rates Ride harshness increases.
Increase rebound rates only On bumps, tires may leave track surface.
Increase bump rates only Body roll resisted; outside tire loaded too quickly; car won't stabilize into a turn.
Decrease rebound and bump rates Ride harshness decreases; car may float over bumps.
Decrease rebound rates only On bumps, tires follow track surface more effectively; car may continue to oscillate after bumps.
Decrease bump rates only Body rolls quickly; car is slower to respond to turn-in.
[Suspension Changes] [Tire Temperatures] [Solving Handling Problems]
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The Importance of Tire Temperatures
In the course of testing the handling of a car, use tire temperatures and driver feel to make adjustments. It is critical to monitor tire temperatures often. They offer valuable clues to the setup of the car. The areas of adjustment that tire temperatures are used for include: tire pressure, camber, body roll, shock settings, wheel width and transient handling response.
Troubleshooting Tire Temperatures
Reading Handling problem Reason
All tires too hot Compound too soft for track and ambient temperature conditions.
Front tires too hot Understeer Front tire pressures too low.
Rear tires too hot Oversteer Rear tire pressures too low.
Inside edges too hot Too much body roll Too much negative camber or too much toe-out.
Outside edges too hot Too much body roll Too little negative camber, too little toe-out or too much toe-in or wheel width too narrow for tire width.
Center of tread too hot Tire pressure too high.
Edges on too hot Tire pressure too low.
All tires too cold Compound too hard for track and ambient temperature conditions or car not being driven to limit.
Front tires too cold Inadequate load on front tires.
Rear tires too cold Inadequate load on rear tires.
[Suspension Changes] [Tire Temperatures] [Solving Handling Problems]
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Solving Handling Problems
The key to setting up your suspension is in diagnosing what the handling problems are and resolving how to fix them. While car enthusiasts often baulk at the "black art" of suspension tuning, there's no reason to. As with working on the mechanical aspects of an engine, the trick to suspension tuning is in the troubleshooting; there is always a cause and an effect.
Solving Handling Problems
Problem Manifestation Solutions
Steady state understeer All turns or low-speed turns only If front tire temps are optimum and rears are low, stiffen rear antiroll bar; if front temps are too hot, soften front (most likely).If front tire pressures are optimum, decrease rear tire pressure. Increase if chunking occurs.Improper front camber.Too much body roll at front, causing excessive camber change.
Steady state understeer High-speed turns only If front tire temps are OK, increase front downforce.If front tire temps are too hot, reduce rear downforce.
Steady state oversteer All turns or low-speed turns only If rear tire temps are optimum, with fronts too low, stiffen front antiroll bar; if rear temps are too hot, soften rear antiroll bar (most likely).If rear tire pressures are optimum, decrease front tire pressure. Increase if chunking occurs.Improper rear camber.
Steady state oversteer High-speed turns only If rear tire temps are OK, increase rear downforce.If rear tire temps are too hot, reduce front downforce.
Starting "Somewhere"
For your first racing experience, or your first experiences with a new tire, you'll need to first determine the realm of the gross tire pressure setting. Assuming there's no one to tell you how your tire and car combination are best set up, you'll need to experiment to know whether the car handles better in the 30-34 psig range, the 33-36 psig range, or the 36-40 psig range. Once you have a feel for this, you can fine tune to within 1/2 to 1 psig for optimum handling balance and performance.
There are two points from which to set tire pressures. First, you have to adjust the cold (ambient) pressures before the car takes to the track for the first time, or after it has completely cooled off between sessions. After the tire has reached full racing temperature, it is possible to fine tune from the fully heated point, but it will also be important to know when the tire has cooled back down what it's cold temperature is.
We know the tires are going to heat up when they're driven on. The friction between the rubber and the road will generate heat. A lot of heat. This heat is going to transfer to the gaseous air in the tire, and cause it to expand which leads to an increase in the tire pressure. It happens to work out that an increase of about 10 degrees F causes about 1 psig increased tire pressure.
On the track, you're going to work the tires much more than is possible on the street. Repetitive, high cornering forces and aggressive braking are going to generate much more heat and therefore higher tire pressures. Because of this, the typical pressures you run on the street are going to be too high for the race track. During normal street driving, tire pressures will increase over the recommended factory "cold" settings about 2-4 psig. During racing, a cold tire pressure setting will increase anywhere from 6 to 10 psig. Tire pressures must be lowered from their usual street settings before going onto the track.
As with just about everything, the "correct" starting pressure "depends." There's a lot of variables. Still, you have to start somewhere, then you can test various pressure settings to find the best balance in performance. Remember, even the pros have to test several settings every race weekend to find the best performing point. There is no formula, no "right" answer that you can use every time.
So, if you're using street tires on the track, the generic, "start somewhere" point is 5 psig lower than the car manufacturer's recommended tire pressures. (Note: use the car manufacturer's recommended tire pressure as the baseline. Many service and oil change stations with poorly trained techs will pump tires up to pressure stated on the tire side wall. Hello! That's the maximum setting, not the recommended setting. Watch out for those guys!)
From a cold starting point of 5 psig less than street pressures, you can begin the trial and error cycle of making small adjustments and determining the effect. To do this, you will need to run several laps to get the tires hot to start with. Take it easy the first 3 laps or so until the tires come up to temperature. The car will be quite sloppy with the initial low pressures.
After 3 or 4 laps, the tires should feel consistent. Run several more laps to get a feel of the overall grip level and the handling balance. If you're held up by traffic, stay out until you get at least three maximum-effort laps. Then come in to take the pressures and temperatures, and report on the handling. Do not make a cool down lap before coming in as the tires will cool down significantly making the tire temperature data useless (When you park, be sure to not use the parking brake, or rest on the brake pedal as you can easily warp the brake rotors).
If you have a temperature probe, you can use the tire profile reading as the primary guide to tell you if the pressure should be increased, decreased, or left as is.
· if the centers of tires are 5 or more degrees hotter than the edges, then the tire pressure should be lowered. Try about 1 psi for each 4 to 5 degrees the center is higher than the lowest edge temperature.
· if the center temperature is more than a few degrees lower than the edge temperatures, then the tire pressure is too low. Try increasing it by 1 psi for each 4 to 5 degrees the center is lower than the highest edge temperature.
· use the guide below for more detailed tire temperature interpretation tips.
Description Sample Temp Readings Left Front Tire Sample Temp Readings Right Front Tire Interpretation
Center is low by more than 5 degrees of the highest reading 175 168 173 Tire pressure is too low. Increase 1 to 2 psig per 5 degrees difference
Center is high by more than 5 degrees of the lowest reading 168 176 169 Tire pressure is too high. Decrease 1 to 2 psig per 5 degrees difference
Inside edges always hotter than center or outer edges 160 162 170 172 165 162 Too much negative camber
Outside edges always hotter than center or inner edges 172 166 162 163 165 170 Not enough negative camber, too much body roll during corners (causing positive camber). Try stiffer springs or anti-roll bars.
Left or right edges of tires hotter than center and opposite edge 172 166 162 170 165 163 Probably the last set of turns before exiting the track are long or hard rights. This could be normal. Otherwise look for alignment errors.
If you do not have a temperature probe (get one!), then use this as general guide.
· Generally the tire pressures should be close to equal on a car with neutral handling. If the front or rear tire pressures are significantly different, you can adjust them to a mid point between the two readings. (If the fronts are 38 psig, and the rears are 32 psig, then try adjusting them while they're still hot to all be 35 psig). Try this setting for the next session.
· If the tires felt very slippery, especially if they got worse on every lap, then the tire pressure is too high. Take each tire pressure and write it down. If only the front or rear tires felt slippery (the front was slippery if the car understeered and wouldn't respond to more steering input, the back was slippery if the car wanted to oversteer and spin), then lower the pressure of just that pair by 4 psig while they're still hot. Try this setting for the next session.
· If the tires felt spongy, then the tire pressures are too low. When the pressures are too low, they will have low grip and still tend to slide like a tire that is too hard, but the feeling will be different. Instead of a smooth slippery slide, the tire will scrub and have more vibration in the slide. The difference is subtle, but you'll have feel for it in the steering wheel, and from the seat in your legs and back. In this case, increase the pressure while the tires are hot by 2 psig. Try this setting for the next session.
For the first few sessions you'll want to make large pressure adjustments of 2 to 4 psig. This way in about three sessions you can note whether the car felt better in the low 30's, mid 30's, or high 30's psig range, Once you feel the car behaves better in one of these ranges, you can move on to 1 psig incremental changes to close in on the optimum setting. If after 5 or 6 laps you know the car is just not right, don't force it. Come in and make an adjustment. There's no point to driving a really poor handling car and risking an off track excursion over it.
Once you have some experience with your car, you may find that the best starting point is only 2 psig less, or as much as 6 or 8 psig less than the street pressures you run at. There is a large difference in cars, tires, and driving style that affect this. However, starting at 5 psig lower than street pressures should prevent most tires from becoming excessively hard and slippery, and from exceeding their maximum safe pressure.
Fine Tuning
Once you know the general tire pressure range you're aiming for, you can make smaller increments to target the optimum setting.
If you're racing on a particular brand and model of tire for the first time, or you've never taken tire data before, you have some trial and error work to get through, and this will take some time. Depending on the track time available to you, it may take more than your first event to close in on the optimum pressure settings.
If you're running on a race track for the first time ever, this will lengthen how long it takes to determine the best tire pressures as your own inconsistent and incorrect driving will cloud the data you collect. However, take the right data, (use the charts we've provided, and the information in many of the recommended books), and you'll be able to quickly narrow in on the best performing pressures.
Based on the car's handling and tire temperature readings, make adjustments in small increments of 1/2 to 1 psig as needed, then run several more laps to feel the difference. Repeat this cycle as many times as needed until the best balance and maximum grip is achieved (as shown by your lap times). Use the charts we've provided (above and the Tunding Guide) to help interpret the feel and the tire temperature data into how to adjust the pressures.
Each time the car comes in, use your log sheet (see the Practice Sessions section for a downloadable log sheet) and immediately write down the tire pressures and temperatures. Make notes as to the specific handling responses in each corner of the track. Also, write down exactly the changes made on each tire.
After several sessions, you'll get to know the range within a pound or so for the tires that they perform best when hot. When they cool down, you can make note of the cold pressures, and use those pressures the next time as a starting point.
Once you have a feel for the target pressure when the tires are hot, there is some math you can use to calculate a starting point that should be within a pound or two of the best settings. How that works, requires some further understanding of the ambient air temperature and it's effects on the tire's pressure.

BTW Here is my setup:
Tires:
Solo 2
Falken Azenis Sport 215/45ZR16 Tires for autocrossing. Possibility the HOTTIS tire on the market. Look at all the Solo 2 champs; they are using the Falken Azenis Sport tires.
For daily driving
Yoko AVS Intermediate 225/50ZR-15 mounted on our standard diamond pattern 15" x 7" Fiero GT Wheel.

Holy Crap! My eyes are tired now! Why the 205 not the 225's?

If your class allows the use of tires with less than 140 wear rating (as I recall, 140 is the minimum wear rating for street tire classes), you may want to consider the lower profile Kumho Ecsta V700 in a 225-45-15.

If you are competing in a street tire class, the Falken Azenis comes in a 205-50-15 and possibly a 225-50-15.

In the spring Hankook will have a 215-40-16. Very low profile which can be mounted on 16X7 Rota Slipstream wheels (only 13.2#) for a reasonable price.

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FierOmar

IcantDo55,
What a dumb question. Grassroots just used the same tire as comparision purposes only.
Guys, this is just the beginning it shows that there is a whole lot of information to know about tires and the suspension. This is only the beginning. Consider this this tire class 101.

I meant nothing over a 55. sorry> For cornering stability.

So are the "Race" tires worth the $ or do I stick wiht the Falkins? I will be trying the Solo 2 for the first time this spring and it is a mostly stock 85 Gt with all new suspension. Do the Race tires throw me in a different classs?
Thanks
Mike

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Mike

85GT 4-Spd 3.4 Stroker, cam, ported intake exhaust and TB. Natural weight reduction in progress(rust).
My other toy: WWW.IcantDo55.com

ttt

Her is what a 4 time national champ have to say about tires and alignment. Remeber he is refering to an '88 but other years apply.

"In my nine year history of autocrossing, Fiero's are the only cars I've owned. I began with a 1988 Sport Coupe with the 4 cylinder motor. Currently my vehicle of choice is a 1988 Fiero Formula with the V6 engine. The best features of a Pontiac Fiero are an engine with lots of torque, a stiff chassis, and a stiff suspension. Unfortunately, the chassis is also heavy. Good thing there's lots of torque.
All of this information is primarily for the V6 cars, but it is also applicable to the 4 cylinder coupes. There are no radical changes because I compete in the SCCA's Solo II stock class. The air filter has been replaced with a K&N filter charger, the engine is lubricated with Valvoline 5w30 synthetic oil, and the transmission contains Red Line MTL. The rest of the engine and drive train are stock. Keeping the engine well maintained is worth more than trick spark plugs.
Major improvements can be made in the suspension. Bf Goodrich Comp T/A R1 tires are the current choice. Sizes and tire pressures are below.
Front 15x6 rim with 37mm offset on 205/50R15 running at 30psi
Rear 15x7 rim with 30mm offset on 225/50R15 running at 28psi
. Last year with 235 compound, the tires lasted 15 events. Alignment settings are 1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber and 0 to 1/8 inch toe out on the front with 2 degrees negative camber and 0 to 1/8 inch toe in on the rear. Too much toe adjustment can cause rapid tire wear if the car is driven on the street. Street tires usually last about 30,000 miles. The shocks were replaced with standard red Koni adjustables. The fronts are full soft and the rears are normally set at 2 turns for some oversteer on turn in. On faster courses, the rear shocks are left at full soft. Even the soft setting is much stiffer than on standard shocks. Bf Goodrich supplies a handy suspension adjustment guide to Team T/A members.
All other parts are stock. Original brake pads are very good and last 100,000 miles even with 25 to 30 events per year. The clutch lasts about 80,000 miles. Things to keep an eye on are the front lower ball joints and engine mounts. Ball joints only seem to last about 30,000 miles. The engine mounts have not been replaced, but I can tell that they are getting loose.
Future plans are for lighter wheels and a performance exhaust system. The stock aluminum rims weight 22 pounds each. With light weight wheels, 5 to 10 pounds each can be lost for a total savings of as much as 40 pounds. The exhaust will include larger exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter, and a performance muffler."

Solo 2
Handbook
Table of Contents
All you need to do is ask. Anyone, anything.
If they can't help you, they'll point you to someone who can.
What is Solo II
"Solo II is a precision sport, much like, say, archery, riflery or golf. You must be precise and consistent, all the while driving so fast you can barely concentrate" -- Mark Sirota
Solo II events (also known as autocrosses) are an all forward motion driving skill contest. Each driver is individually timed to the thousandth of a second, over a short, miniature road course clearly defined using traffic cones. Cars compete one at a time, hence the name "Solo", in a class with similar cars. An event can be held on any flat paved surface, usually a parking lot, or airport apron or runway.
Solo II emphasizes driver skill and vehicle handling rather than just speed. The corners are tight, and there are lots of them, so the driving is exciting and challenging. Solo II speeds do not exceed those normally encountered in highway driving. (This is the main difference between Solo II and Solo I; where much higher speeds are attained)
The skills you learn and practice here; smooth transitions, enhanced braking, and skid correction, will have an immediate impact on improving the safety and skill of your street driving. Solo II is an excellent way to teach car control to young drivers in a safe environment.
Solo II is also a very social sport, filled with some of the friendliest people you'll ever meet. The camaraderie of the drivers is a special part of autocrossing that is profoundly satisfying.
Cars are divided into categories and classes. Classes separate cars by performance, so that VW Rabbits compete against Honda Civics, and Porsche 911s compete against Nissan 300ZX Turbos. Categories separate cars according to their level of preparation. Unmodified cars compete in classes in the Stock category. Cars with modifications to the suspension, intake or exhaust system, or different wheels and tires compete in Street Prepared. Cars with engine modifications and race cars compete in the Prepared category. Cars with different engines, and open-wheel cars compete in classes in the Modified category. The complete descriptions of classes and preparation allowances are spelled out in the Solo II rule book.
The costs of Solo II competition are reasonable because you can compete in anything from a real race car to the car you drive on the street every day. Entry fees are usually $15 to $20 per driver, and two drivers can share a car.
Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) sanctioned events are insured through the SCCA, and are conducted under the watchful eyes of SCCA Safety Stewards. The rules and guidelines established by the SCCA and enforced by the Safety Stewards are what makes this one of the safest motorsports. A day of autocrossing is far safer for both car and driver than most people's daily commute to work.
Approximately 1100 SCCA sanctioned Solo II events, totaling more than 10,000 competitors, are held each year throughout the country. More people compete in Solo competition than any other motorsport save drag racing.
With so many SCCA regions, rules and programs may differ somewhat between the regions. For instance, some regions have an extra class for their national-caliber drivers, some regions drive in morning and afternoon heats. A quick look at a region's supplemental regulations will outline local customs. In this handbook I will indicate with RLS (Read Local Supplementals) those topics which are covered in your local "supps".
On Being a Novice
You'll remember your first event for a long time. The adrenaline that makes you shake at the start-line before your first run, and the even bigger surge of adrenaline you feel when you finish. That excitement is part of the sport, and it's why we all do this.
Don't let being a novice overwhelm you! Every driver, including the National Champions, had a first day and a novice season. Autocrossing is a skill that requires instruction and practice to see improvements. If it was easy, it wouldn't be so competitive, or so fun. In fact, when experienced road racers come to Solo for the first time, we often put them in Novice Class. It's not like falling off a log for them, either. The great thing about this sport, though, is that even when you're going "slow", it's still fun driving.
The course may seem "busy" at first, because it's tighter than what you see on the street, and you're trying to attack it faster than you could in traffic. You'll have fun learning the sport and learning to keep the car in control as you get faster and better with more seat-time.
With that said, here are some tips to give you the right novice attitude, so you don't become discouraged:
Your goal is to have fun! That's why everyone is here.
Your goal for the first run is to avoid getting lost on course (see course-walking tips)
Your goal for the rest of the day is to improve your time on each run
Your goal for the second event is the same as the first.
Your goal for the rest of the season is to beat somebody (anybody!) and continue to make each run faster than the last.
At this point, you are learning a lot on each run, and you may be 10 seconds behind the class leader. That's not unusual! You're still doing OK.
Generally speaking, the veteran drivers like to help the novices. The magic words "I am a novice" will get you extra instruction from other competitors, who can critique your run. Just be careful not to interrupt a driver on a course walk, or while he or she is concentrating on going over the course in his or her head. (See the section on Solo Etiquette.)
Don't forget, there is a Novice Class Instructor available to answer your questions and help you get started.
Description of the Novice Program
The Novice Program was created to help people new to autocross have fun from the first event. If this is a new sport for you, you will have lots of questions. The Novice Chief, the instructors, and the novice handbook are here to answer them, and to show you some of the basic skills to get you started (RLS).
The Novice Class is designed to let all novices compete against each other, regardless of their car or preparation level. The PAX index is used to handicap the different classes and categories based on average performance nationwide. (more detail on the index in a later chapter)
Eligibility for Novice Class (RLS)
Request novice classification at registration and it will be noted on your form. You must request this before the first car is run. Novices display an N after the class markings on the car, such as ESN or DSPN, etc.
When Novices make their runs (RLS)
Novice class drivers compete only against each other, scored by PAX indexing. Trophies are awarded for the Novice Class by the same system used for the open classes; the top third of the class.
Most importantly, remember this is a Novice Program, a whole package for instruction and fun. It includes instructors, the handbook, a guided course-walk and rides with experienced drivers. We want to answer all of your questions and help you have fun. Please take advantage of us.
What to Bring to an Event
This list covers everything from sunscreen to snacks to tires pressure gauges. You will probably come up with your own list of things you need at a Solo event, but this will get you started.
You must have:
Your car (although you may share a car with someone else) Your entry fee A valid driver's license
You may want to bring:
· Your SCCA membership card, to get a discount on entry fees
· A safety helmet
· Extra air in your tires. Stop at a gas station and fill your tires to approximately 45psi-Front/35psi-Rear for a front-wheel-drive car, or 40psi all around for a rear-wheel-drive car.
· Suitable shoes for driving. The best are light-soled, with a narrow sole which does not stick out past the side of the shoe
· Sunglasses
· Sunscreen
· Clothes appropriate for the weather forecast, plus a change for when the forecast is wrong.
· Rain gear / umbrella
· A hat
· A folding chair
· Thermos of water or other non alcoholic beverage
· Cooler for lunch or snacks
· Windex and paper towels
· A pad and pencil to write down all the advice you'll get
· A copy of the current SCCA Solo II Rule Book
· A good tire pressure gauge
· A portable air tank or compressor
· Chalk or white shoe polish to mark the tires
What Happens at a Solo
People begin arriving before registration opens (RLS) so they can unpack their car, change tires and get ready for the day before registration begins. It is best to arrive at or before the beginning of registration so you will have time to register, tech your car, walk the course, and have ample time to talk to the Novice Chief.
Registration
To register you must have a valid driver's license and entry fee (usually $15 to $20). Fill out the information card at the registration area. They will help choose the class for your car if you don't know what it is. You will also be assigned a car number for the day. At registration, you will be asked to sign the insurance waiver. You must do this to compete, and any guests you bring must sign the waiver also.
Once you know your class and car number, mark your car using white shoe polish on the window (it comes off with Windex), tape paper numbers inside the window, or use magnetic numbers if you have them.
Tech Inspection
Your car must pass tech inspection before you can compete. Read the tech inspection chapter to see what you'll need to do. Registration may be at one central area, or at your "pit" space (RLS).
The tech inspector will sign your card if you pass, or recommend changes to make the car pass, such as additional tie-downs for the battery or removal of loose items or hub caps if you've forgotten.
Course Walking
After tech, you will have time to walk the course. Before you go, read the chapter on course-walking tips. Course maps are available at registration, and the Novice chief will take you on a guided walk after the drivers' meeting. Try to have the course memorized before you go on the guided walk.
Drivers' Meeting
The drivers' meeting is mandatory for all drivers. The event chair will hold the meeting approximately one half hour before the first car starts. Be sure to attend. This is where you will find out information you'll need to know about the course conditions, number of runs, particular safety concerns, how penalties are assessed, and how work assignments will be handled.
At the end of the drivers' meeting, the Novice Chief will announce the novice course-walk.
Your Runs
You will have a minimum of three timed runs, weather permitting. Depending on the event, you may get as many as five timed runs. Find out who is running before you and after you, so you know when to line up (RLS). Running in order makes the timing people's job easier, and keeps the event running smoothly, but if someone gets in front of you, or you are running a little behind, don't worry too much about it. The event chair will call out which classes are to come to the grid (line of 4-5 cars waiting to run)
Once you are in grid, you will wait for the cars in front of you to launch, and you will move up until you are on the start line. A starter will wave a green flag when it is OK for you to start. The green flag means go as soon as you are ready, the timer will not start until you pass through the lights. Don't take too long if we are running two cars on course at once, because you start is timed to make sure you do not get too near the car already on course.
If you do get "lost" on course, take the time to orient yourself and continue. Don't head back to the start line, because you may be pointed toward another car. Just take the time to get back on course, and continue the run as a practice! If the next driver catches up, they will be red-flagged and be granted a re-run (which they'll use to its fullest potential).
Times are posted after each run. Your fastest run of the day is used to determine your finishing position.
Read the Driving Tips section for more detail about your runs.
Your Work Assignments
It's best to report for your work assignment as quickly as possible when it is time for you to work (RLS). Otherwise, some people end up working longer than others, which is no fun. The place to get work assignments will be announced in the drivers' meeting.
We try to put a novice with an experienced driver on a station if we have enough people. For a little bonus instruction, ask your co-worker to talk about the techniques of the cars on course. Read the chapter on Working to get more detail on how to call in cones and stay safe while working the course.
Fun Runs
If time permits, fun runs are held at the completion of the event while trophies are being readied. This is your opportunity to ride with other drivers and have them ride with you. Fun runs usually cost one to two dollars.
Course Clean-up
Once all the timed runs and fun runs, if any, are complete, everyone helps clean up the course. This involves bringing in the fire extinguishers and flags, cones and timing equipment, and storing them in the trailer. Scoreboards need to be cleaned off and the pit area needs to be checked for trash. When everyone helps, this can be completed in fifteen to twenty minutes.
The Awards
After the event, following course clean-up, everyone meets for the trophy presentation. The location for the presentation is usually announced at the drivers' meeting. The event chair and his/her assistants will give out results and present trophies to the top third of each class, plus a trophy for Fastest Time of the Day (FTD) and the PAX challenge winner; the driver with the fastest indexed time.
Tech Inspection Requirements
Safety Helmet: If you bring your own safety helmet, it must be approved by Snell in the current or two most recent ratings (e.g. if Snell 95 is in production then that, 90 and 85 are legal). The club provides loaner helmets for people who do not have one.
Safety Belts: Original safety belts, at a minimum are required. Shoulder belts are not required, if your car did not come with them, but you must have a lap belt. Belts must be firmly attached.
Solidly Mounted Battery: The battery must be held down properly. If it can be moved at all, it will not pass. There are some additional battery requirements which may affect you if you have modified your car. The Tech Inspector will help you out with them.
Legal Tires: In Stock and Street Prepared categories, the tires must have measurable tread, and must be in good condition. Excessive weather checks or visible cord/plies will fail inspection. Tire pressures should be higher than used for the street, usually 45psi-Front/35psi-Rear for a front-wheel-drive car, or 40psi all around for a rear-wheel-drive car.
Brakes: The brake pedal must be firm, with no loss of pressure when held down.
Steering / Suspension: The steering must be tight, with no excessive play. Wheel bearings cannot have excessive play.
Hub Caps and Trim Rings: Hub caps, trim rings and wheel covers must be removed for competition, unless they are bolted to the wheel.
Loose Items in Car: All loose items must be removed from the passenger compartment and trunk. This includes the floor-mats. You may remove the spare tire and jack, but you are not required to if they are properly secured.
Fluid Leaks: Excessive fluid leaks will not pass inspection.
Numbers and Class Markings: The car numbers and class markings should be prominently displayed on both sides of the car in colors that contrast with the paint, and should be large enough to be seen easily from the timing van. White shoe polish for marking windows (comes off with Windex ) is available for people who don't have magnetic or paper numbers.
Adequate Muffler: Your car must be quieter than 95dbA (RLS) measured 50 feet from the course at a place where you are under full throttle. Due to the possibility of losing sites for noise problems, this rule is strictly enforced. (If your car is quiet enough to avoid attracting Police attention, it will most likely pass the noise requirement)
Throttle: Accelerator pedal must have a return spring and operate freely.
(RLS) for local tech requirements
You are not required to have your car registered for street use, but it must pass tech inspection.
Working Rules and Safety
Do's
Report to work promptly.
Make sure your station has adequate supplies; extra pylons, fire extinguisher, radio and red flag.
Know your area of responsibility and station number.
Make sure cones are in their proper place when you get to your station, and check them periodically during your shift.
Understand the pylon rules (Section 7.9 A, B &C in the rule book) e.g., pointer cones do not count if hit (see below), and a car is off-course (DNF for Did Not Finish) if they pass on the wrong side of a cone.
Pay attention to cars on course for accurate cone counts and your safety. It is best to watch the back of the car and the cones themselves to see the wobbling cone which may have left the box.
Replace cones as soon as possible, another car will be coming through in as soon as 30 seconds.
Be prepared for exposure to sun/rain, wind, heat/cold while on station
Keep red flag in your hand, unfurled (but not flapping) ready for immediate deployment.
Stay alert for unexpected pedestrians and vehicles
Don'ts
Do not use cameras while on station.
Do not sit down and do not wander away from your post.
Do not turn your back on cars on course. Safety First!
Do not red flag a car unless instructed to do so by the radio person or if it is an emergency. However, if in doubt, err on the side of safety!
Do not litter
Do not pick up hot parts dropped on course because of risk of burns.
A penalty is given if :
· If the cone is knocked over and is out of the box.
· If the cone is knocked over and is in the box.
· If the cone remains standing but is out of the box.

A penalty is NOT given if :
· The cone remains standing is touching the box
· The cone remains standing and is partially in the box.
· And of course, if the cone remains standing within the box.

Car set-up Tips
Keeping things inexpensive, we'll only talk about things you can do for free, or under $50. After a while, you may want to put more go-fast goodies on your car, but make sure to read the rule book, and stay legal for your category.
But also keep in mind, at this point you can go faster sooner by working on the driver instead of the car. See the course-walking and driving tips!
What you can do Today
Tires: You've already read that you should put an extra 10 to 15 psi in your tires. The reason for this is to keep your tires from rolling under during hard cornering. But how much is too much? Put chalk on the edges of your tire, in three places around the diameter, and you can see how far over the tire was going during your runs. Bleed out a little if the chalk is still showing on the tread, or add a little more if the chalk has been worn off down the sidewall. The line of worn chalk to remaining chalk should be right at the corner of the tread and sidewall. Keep notes on how many psi you ran, and where the chalk line was, for your next event.
Remember that as you get better and corner harder, you'll need more air to compensate, so keep using the chalk at every event.
Driver Restraint: In order to have good control in driving, you, the driver, have got to stay put. So make sure your seat belt is tight and firm. Some people like to tug hard (fast) on the shoulder strap to engage the lock on the reel.
Driver Location: Most experienced drivers will agree that the best place for your seat - to give you the best control - is seat forward far enough to have your leg slightly bent when the clutch is all the way to the floor, and seat-back reclined or upright to a position that allows you to rest your wrists on the steering wheel when you shoulders are firmly against the seat.
This position allows you to run the full range of steering inputs and foot motion without stretching or moving in your seat, and can have a huge impact on your driving skill.
What you can do before the next event
Alignments cost $20 to $60, and if you're looking for a cheap way to improve your solo II set-up, this is a good one.
Some words of caution, first. Manufacturers set their alignments to what they consider to be the most predictable and stable settings. Improving your car's turn-in for autocross may make your car twitchy on the street. So use your own discretion. To get some suggestions, though, ask a driver who has a car similar to yours in weight, wheelbase or front or rear wheel drive.
Course Walking Tips
"You must be able to keep track of the course in your head. If you can't, then you can't drive it to its fullest potential"
Josh Sirota
That quote is worth five seconds to a novice. Knowing how to walk the course is the most important step in being competitive and staying "ahead" of the course. Usually, you'll want to walk the course at least three times.
Step 1) Walk the course. Your first walk will be to get the general layout, and is often a social walk. Now get away from friends and walk the course alone, concentrating on memorizing the layout. Think of it in sections, with key cones marking the turns, such as:
start straight
slalom (enter on right)
decreasing sweeper to the left
"little snake" then "big snake"
right-hand curve (look for three pointers)
"thread the needle section"
tight right, then tight left
finish
Stop every now and then and run through the course in your head, from the beginning to where you are. Get down - the course looks different from a seated position. This will give you a better picture of what the course will look like at speed.
Pace off the distance between cones in a slalom. Some course designers vary the distance, and it's good to know before you arrive whether you will have to vary your speed in a slalom. Take a note-pad if you like, and make notes such as pavement changes, camber change, bumps, sand, etc.
Make a mental note to yourself (or write it down) how far ahead you will be looking. When I walk the course, I say to myself, "OK, when I am here I will be looking there" This will help you to remember to look ahead while you are driving.
"Repeat this step over and over until the picture is perfect."
Andy Hollis - Four-time Pro Solo and Solo II National Champ
How do you know if the picture is perfect? Sit down by your car and try to draw the course on a blank piece of paper. Include the key cones you want to recognize while you drive. If you can't draw the course, you will want to walk it again. Once you leave the start line in your car, you should not be spending any time figuring out where the course is.
Step 2) Plan the course. (Do this while walking the course again) Now decide exactly how you want to drive the course. Driving the course perfectly involves two things; coming up with the correct plan, and executing the plan correctly. If you don't have a plan, you can't possibly know where you didn't execute it correctly. It's hard to know if you did this step correctly, but step 4 is something you can work on.
The plan involves the line you will take through the cones - the quickest way through. Note, I didn't say shortest. Think about the characteristics of your car; does it corner better than it accelerates, or the other way around? That will tell you whether to slow down so you can get through the corner in control and get on the throttle as soon as possible, or try to carry speed through to keep up the revs.
Don't forget to plan where you will be looking. There is no need to memorize every cone on the course, only the ones you plan to be near, the "important" ones. Look from one important cone to the next in your plan.
Step 3) In Grid. Before you run, while you are in grid, go over the course again several times in your head, executing the plan you made before.
Step 4) After the run. Sit in your car and go over your run. Figure out where you didn't execute the plan. If the plan was to be near a particular cone, and you were five feet from it, then you didn't execute the plan correctly, and a red light should have gone off in your head. Maybe you need to adjust the plan because you were going too fast in the slow parts. Decide at this point whether your next run needs to be a better execution of the plan, or a modification of the plan.
Basically, don't use the car as an excuse, you will see a big difference in your times when you drive a course that never surprised you.
Driving Tips
Seat time, seat time, seat time. That's the best way to go faster. They say, "Before you fix the car, fix the driver". That's because there's so many techniques to improve your driving, it takes seat time to learn them all, but once you do, someone without those skills would have to spend a lot of money on their car to beat you, and probably still couldn't.
Here are a few techniques to get you started. Don't try to apply them all in your first run, you'll be too busy. But read through the whole list, then work at gaining these skills one at a time.
Look Ahead. I can't emphasize this enough. I repeat it out loud while I am driving. It's so easy to forget, but makes such a big impact on my driving. It all relates to hand-eye (and eye-foot) coordination. Look where you want your hands to drive you, and look far enough ahead to take advantage of the feedback. If you're looking at that outside cone that you're afraid you'll hit, well, you'll hit it. If you're looking ten feet in front of the bumper, the turns will keep surprising you. Imagine looking at your feet while you are running on foot! You won't be very coordinated, and you won't have a good sense of distance or speed. Same goes for driving hard corners as you do in autocross. Look ahead. You will be astounded at your performance the first time you remember to do this all the way through a course.
Slow Down to Go Fast. A common problem when you're starting out is trying to take the tight sections too fast, and not staying in control. I still remember finishing a run and saying, "Well, I didn't go very fast, but it sure was smooth," only to find out I'd gone faster by a full second! Just be patient in the slow spots. They're slow spots, after all.
Brake hard in corners. Go ahead, squeeze the brakes hard. There's no morning coffee on your dashboard, or eggs in the front seat. Once you decide to slow down for the corner, don't waste any time. If you find yourself at a crawl and you're not at the corner yet, why, you've just found out that you can brake later. Locking up your tires will not make you stop faster, so squeeze the brakes and let them do the work, not your tires.
Adhesion. Don't ask too much of your tires. For any tire/pavement pair, there's only a certain amount of traction. We'll call that 100% traction. You can use up that traction with your throttle, your brakes or your steering wheel. So if you're going into a corner, using 100% of your traction to make the turn, what happens when you ask for more traction by applying the brakes? Either yo

quote Originally posted by Solo2: You will not be in stock class due to your modifications. You will be in CSP class just like me. Stock class is ONLY allowed to change the tire to racing rubber, change shocks, and can use aftermarket aitr filter. The supension must remean untouch eaning no suspension modifications. In CSP class, racing rubber rules however I am using the Falkins and the racing rubber times are better than mine. Even if you add something like the poly dogbone will throw you out of stock and into the CSP class. Stock class has no poly in their cars period.

So what exactly would take me out of the stock class...rear sway bar? Other than that the motor looks stock ;-) Oh I have poly bushing on the front sway bar end links are about the mods from stock. How do you go about joining the SCCA their website kinda sux.
Thanks

------------------
Mike

85GT 4-Spd 3.4 Stroker, cam, ported intake exhaust and TB. Natural weight reduction in progress(rust).
My other toy: WWW.IcantDo55.com

The items that take you out of the E Stock class is your ST lowering springs, all the poly that you mentioned, the ported exhaust and intake, your bored out TB, and if you start removing any things that will definitiy take you out of calss. Below is the STREET PREPARED RULES, it is almost unlimited things and mods you can do to the car. Stock class is what it says. Right off the showroom floors with NO mods.
Please visit www.autocross.com for more info:

Rules:
Street Prepared
This is an unofficial transcription of Section 14 of the 2002 SCCA National Solo Rules. (Copyright Sports Car Club of America 2002; all rights reserved) It is believed to be correct, but any questions should be referred to the official rules as published by the SCCA. Order your own copy here.
Changes since the 2001 Rules are shown like this;
Further changes from FasTrack are shown like this.

· Return to SCCA Car Classification Page
· Return to SCCA Classification Rules
· See SCCA Stock Rules
· See SCCA Street Touring Rules

Contents
· 14. STREET PREPARED CATEGORY
· 14.1 Authorized Modifications
· 14.2 Bodywork
· 14.3 Tires
· 14.4 Wheels
· 14.5 Shock Absorbers
· 14.6 Brakes
· 14.7 Anti-Roll (Sway) Bars
· 14.8 Suspension
· 14.9 Electrical System
· 14.10 Engine and Drive Train
· 14.11 Out-of-Production Cars

14. STREET PREPARED CATEGORY
Cars running in Street Prepared Category must have been series produced with normal road touring equipment capable of being licensed for normal road use in the United States, and normally sold and delivered through the manufacturer's retail sales outlets in the United States. Cars not specifically listed in Stock or Street Prepared Category classes in Appendix A must have been produced in quantities of at least 1000 in a 12 month period to be eligible for Street Prepared Category.
A vehicle may compete in Street Prepared Category if the preparation of the vehicle has not exceeded the allowable modifications of Stock Category, except as specified below. However, the distinction between different years/models used in Stock Category does not apply in Street Prepared Category. Example: Porsche 911 models that are listed on the same line are considered the same.
Cars listed as eligible in and prepared to the current national Improved Touring rules are permitted to compete in their respective street prepared classes. Logbooks are not required. Neither Street Prepared nor Improved Touring cars are permitted to interchange preparation rules. Improved Touring cars may use tires which are eligible under current IT rules even if they are not eligible in Street Prepared.
Cars listed as eligible in and prepared to the current American Sedan rules are permitted to compete in Class B Street Prepared. Logbooks are not required. Neither Street Prepared nor American Sedan cars are permitted to interchange preparation rules. American Sedan cars may use tires which are eligible under current AS rules even if they are not eligible in Street Prepared.
Cars listed as eligible in and prepared to the current national Touring category rules are permitted to compete in their respective Street Prepared classes. Neither Street Prepared nor Touring cars are permitted to interchange preparation rules. Touring cars may use tires which are eligible under current Touring rules even if they are not eligible in Street Prepared.
While the rules of the Street Prepared Category have remained essentially the same, the laws governing various aspects of street-driven vehicles have changed over time. The original concept of this category as made up predominantly of street-driven vehicles has been rendered inappropriate. The SCCA does not encourage or condone the breaking of laws governing pollution control systems or the alteration of street-driven vehicles contrary to state and federal laws regarding their use. It continues to be the responsibility of the individual to comply with such state and federal laws.
Specific vehicle classifications are located in Appendix A of these rules.
14.1 Authorized Modifications
A. All Allowable modifications permitted in Stock Category are allowed.
B. Street Prepared vehicles may only be modified in excess of Stock Category rules in the following ways. Any modification not specifically authorized by the Stock Category or Street Prepared rules is prohibited. No unauthorized modifications are permitted in order to accommodate authorized modifications (i.e., non-stock hood scoops or holes necessary for carburetor clearance). Structural modifications, such as the addition of members known as "jacking rails", are not permitted unless specifically authorized herein.
C. Equipment and/or specifications may be exchanged between different years and models of a vehicle if
(a) the item is standard on the year/model from which it was taken,
(b) the years/models are listed on the same line of Appendix A (Street Prepared Classes).
The updated/backdated part or the part to which it is to be attached may not be altered, modified, machined or otherwise changed to facilitate the updating/backdating allowance. The updating and/or backdating of engines, transmissions or transaxles must be done as a unit; component parts of these units may not be interchanged. Cars not listed in the Street Prepared sections of Appendix A may not be updated/backdated until approved by the SEB and published in SportsCar magazine.
D. Alternate computer control modules may be used whenever an equivalent change to the conventional system is allowed. For example, alternate computer module control of ignition settings or fuel injection is allowed. Direct turbocharger boost control by alternate computer control is not, since there is no equivalent mechanical allowance.
E. Air conditioning systems may be removed in whole or in part. This rule should not be interpreted to allow modification of the heater system.
Refer to Appendix F for past clarifications of these rules.
14.2 Bodywork
A. Fenders and bumpers (including the portion of the hood which serves as a fender/wheel well, 8/2002, but ONLY that portion and not by complete hood replacement, 9/2002) may be modified for tire clearance. Flares may be added although tires may extend beyond the body work. Replacement of complete flared fenders or quarter panels is prohibited.
B. Removal of factory trim is only permitted if the resultant configuration is an allowed update or backdate.
C. Strut bars are permitted with all types of suspension. Strut bars may be mounted only transversely across the car from upper right to upper left suspension mounting point and from lower right to lower left suspension mounting point. No other configuration is permitted. Additional holes may be drilled for mounting bolts. Only bolt-on attachment is permitted.
D. Any fully padded and upholstered front seat may be used. This does not permit the substitution of a passengers seat with a child or miniature seat of any type. Any substituted passengers seat must be sufficiently large and strong to be capable of adequately accommodating an adult, such that it could be used as the driver's seat. The OEM seat belts may be removed to facilitate the installation of alternate restraints complying with safety requirements. Seat tracks are considered part of the seat and may be substituted when an alternate seat is installed. (3/2002)
E. Any steering wheel may be used. An alternate wheel which replaces an airbag-equipped wheel is not required to have an airbag. The alternate wheel is not required to have a horn button. (3/2002)
F. Spoilers and cosmetic trim pieces are permitted. Side skirts may not be used. Spoilers must comply with the following subsections. The intent of this allowance is to accommodate commonly available appearance kits, and replicas thereof, which have no significant aerodynamic function at Solo II speeds.

1. A spoiler may be added to the front of the car below the bumper. It may not extend rearward beyond the front most part of the front wheel well openings, and may not block normal grille or other openings, or obstruct lights. Openings may not be used for the purpose of ducting air to the radiator, or oil cooler, but they may allow air to flow through a permitted oil cooler provided no ducting is used. The spoiler may not function as a wing.
2. A spoiler may be added to the rear of the car provided it complies with either of the following:

a. It is a production rear spoiler which is standard or optional equipment of a U.S. model of the vehicle, or an exact replica in an alternate material.
b. It is a non-production rear spoiler which is mounted to the rearmost portion of the rear hatch, deck, or trunk lid. The spoiler may extend no more than 10 inches from the original bodywork in any direction. Alternatively, in a hatchback, the spoiler may be mounted to the rear hatch lid at or near the top of the hatch; in such a configuration the spoiler may extend no more than 4 inches from the original bodywork in any direction. The spoiler may be no wider than the bodywork, and it shall not protrude beyond the overall perimeter of the bodywork as viewed from above. The use of endplates is prohibited. Angle of attack is free. The spoiler may not function as a wing.
G. Roll bars and cages must comply with Section 13.2.G in Stock category. Roll cages must comply with the following:
a. The roll cage need not be removable. It shall be bolted or welded to the car.
b. The cage shall attach to the car at no more than 8 points, consisting of the basic cage with 6 attachment points, and 2 additional braces.
c. The forward part of the cage shall be mounted to the floor of the vehicle. In addition, the 2 optional braces referred to in (b) may be mounted, one on either side, from the forward section of the cage to the firewall or front fender wells. No braces shall pass through the front firewall.
H. The use of a fuel cell which complies with current GCR requirements is permitted, provided all of the following additional restrictions are met:

0. The capacity of the cell may differ by no more than 20% from that of the original tank.
1. The location of the cell may differ from that of the original tank by no more than six inches in any direction.
2. The car meets all applicable Solo I safety standards, including those for rollover protection and the installation of a fire extinguisher.
I. Fuel tank changes are permitted only as allowed under 14.1.C and 14.2.H. No additional tanks or reservoirs may be used.
J. Accelerator, brake, and clutch pedals may utilize substitute covers of unrestricted origin, shape, and size, provided they meet the following requirements: Covers must be securely attached, provide a non-slip surface, not interfere with each other's operation, and must be deemed safe at Tech Inspection.
14.3 Tires
Tires must meet the eligibility requirements for Stock Category with the following exception: The list of non-eligible tires in Section 13.3.A is replaced with the following list, which may be altered at any time by the SEB upon notification of membership.
No tire models are currently listed.
14.4 Wheels
A. Wheels of any diameter, width, or offset may be used.
B. Wheel spacers are permitted. Wheel studs and knock-off wheel drive pegs may be changed in length and diameter. Wheel bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts.
14.5 Shock Absorbers
A. Shock absorber bump stops may be altered or removed.
B. On cars with lever-type shock absorbers, a tube-type shock absorber may be added. If the lever-type shock serves no other purpose, it must be removed. If the lever-type shock serves any other purpose, it must be retained.
C. Any shock absorbers may be used, provided they attach to the original mounting points. The number of shock absorbers shall be the same as Stock. No shock absorber may be capable of adjustment while the car is in motion, unless fitted as orignal equipment. MacPherson strut equipped cars may substitute struts, and/or may use any insert. This does not allow unauthorized changes in suspension geometry or changes in attachment points (e.g., affecting the position of the lower ball joint or spindle). It is intended to allow the strut length changes needed to accommodate permitted modifications which affect ride height and suspension travel. This allowance differs from Improved Touring Allowance 12.1.4.d.5.d.1.
14.6 Brakes
Any brake line, single or dual master cylinder, vacuum brake booster, brake proportioning valves may be used. This does not allow multiple separate cylinders, but does allow for any single, dual-circuit cylinder. "Safety breakers" and units such as the "Brake Guard System" are permitted. ABS braking systems may be disabled, but not removed; brake boosters may be removed or added. Air ducts may be fitted to the brakes, provided that they extend in a forward direction only, and that no changes are made in the body/structure for their use. They may serve no other purpose. Backing plates and dirt shields may be modified or removed.
14.7 Anti-Roll (Sway) Bars
Any anti-sway bar is permitted. Bushing material, method of attachment, and locating points are unrestricted. This does not authorize removal of a welded-on part of a subframe toa ccommodate the installation. Components such as anti-roll bars and strut housings which serve dual purposes by also functioning as suspension locators may not be modified in ways which change the suspension geometry or steering geometry, and may not be installed in positions (e.g., upside down) other than that of the original configuration. The bar may serve no other purpose which is not explicitly permitted elsewhere herein (11/2002).
14.8 Suspension
A. Ride height may only be altered by suspension adjustments, the use of spacing blocks, leaf spring shackles, torsion bar levers, or change or modification of springs or coil spring perches. This does not allow the use of spacers which alter suspension geometry, such as those between the hub carrier and lower suspension arm. Springs must be of the same type as the original (coil, leaf, torsion bar, etc.) and except as noted herein, must use the original spring attachment points. Coil spring perches originally attached to struts or shock absorber bodies may be changed or altered, and their position may be adjustable. Spacers are allowed above or below the spring. These allowances permit multiple coil springs, as long as they use the original mount locations. (7/2002).
B. Suspension bump stops may be altered or removed.
C. Suspension bushings may be replaced with bushings of any materials (except metal) as long as they fit in the original location. Offset bushings may be used. In a replacement bushing the amount of metal relative to the amount of non-metallic material may not be increased. This does not authorize a change in type of bushing (for example ball and socket replacing a cylindrical bushing), or use of a bushing with an angled hole whose direction differs from that of the original bushing. If the Stock bushing accommodated multi-axis motion via compliance of the component material(s), the replacement bushing may not be changed to accomodate such motion via a change in bushing type, for example to a spherical bearing or similar component involving internal moving parts. Pins or keys may be used to prevent the rotation of alternate bushings, but may serve no other purpose than that of retaining the bushing in the desired position. Differential mount bushings are not suspension bushings and thus may not be substituted under this allowance, though Section 14.1.C allows certain update/backdate allowances (8/2002).
D. On vehicles with strut-type suspensions, adjustable camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut, and the original upper mounting holes may be slotted. The drilling of holes in order to perform the installation is permitted but the center clearance hole may not be modified. Any type of bearing or bushing may be used in the adjustable camber plate attachment to the strut. The installation may incorporate an alternate upper spring perch/seat and/or mounting block (bearing mount). Any ride height change resulting from installation of camber plates is allowed. Caster changes resulting from the use of camber places are permitted
E. Addition or replacement of suspension stabilizers (linkage connecting axle housing or De Dion to the chassis, which controls lateral suspension location) is permitted. Traction bars or torque arms may be added or replaced. A panhard rod may be added or replaced. Methods of attachment and attachment points are unrestricted. This does not authorize removal of a welded-on part of a subframe to accommodate installation. The longitudinal member which GM refers to as a "torque arm" on 3rd and 4th generation Camaros, which controls differential movement, is covered by this section and may be substituted or modified.
F. Changes in alignment parameters which result directly from the use of allowed components are permitted. For example, the dimensional changes resulting from the use of a cylindrical offset bushing which meets the restrictions of 14.8.C are allowed, including those resulting from a change in the pivoting action to
(a) about the mounting bolt, or
(b) about the bushing itself.
14.9 Electrical System
A. Any ignition setting adjustment or system may be used. An original ignition sensor on a cam cover may be removed, and the hole plugged. This may serve no other purpose. (3/2002)
B. The make, model number, and size of the battery may be changed but not its voltage.
C. Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not into the passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting it, the tray may be removed, or relocated with the battery. Holes may be drilled for mounting or passage of cables. Longer cables may be substituted to permit relocation. The number of battery or batteries may not be changed from stock. The area behind the rearmost seat is not considered to be within the passenger compartment.
D. Any starter, generator or alternator may be used in the original position. This does not allow for the use of an alternator or generator having little or no output. An alternator or generator must have an electrical output equal to or greater than the original equipment unit. Any generator or alternator pulley and belt of the same type as standard may be used (see 14.10.U)
E. Wiring harnesses may not be removed in whole or in part. Wiring connectors for emissions control devices are considered part of the harness, not part of the emissions control system, and may not be removed.
14.10 Engine and Drive Train
A. Engines must retain standard type lubricating system, but may have any oil pan (Accusump-type systems allowed), oil pump and pickup, oil coolers, oil or fuel filters. Fuel filters must be of automotive type and serve no other purpose. A permitted oil cooler may be positioned in an opening in an allowed spoiler, provided no unauthorized modifications are made in order to perform the installation.
B. Heat shields may be added.
C. Carburetors, fuel injection, intercoolers and intake manifolds are unrestricted. Alternate throttle linkage and connections to facilitate installation of allowed induction systems are permitted, but may serve no other purpose. As utilized only on engines originally equipped with forced induction, air-to-air heat exchangers (known as "intecoolers"), and radiators which are part of air-to-liquid charge coolers, must be cooled only by the atmosphere.

The use of chilled liquids, ice, dry ice, refrigeration systems, vaporized compressed gases, etc. is prohibited. If an induction system item is allowed to be removed and its original mounting bracket can be removed simply by unbolting it, the bracket may be removed as well. Turbochargers may not be added, changed or modified. Turbocharger and supercharger systems may only be updated/backdated with the accompanying engine unit. No changes are allowed to waste gates, pressure sensors or their location, and to other turbocharger or supercharger boost limiting systems. This allowance does not permit changes to blow-off (pop-off) valves. Devices known as "fuel cut defensers", and any modifications which alter or defeat the fuel cutoff when it is activated by boost level, are not permitted.
D. Air cleaner(s) may be changed or removed, velocity stacks may be added.
E. Emission control devices may be modified or removed. This permits the oil filler cap to be modified or substituted, but does not allow valve covers or cam covers to be altered to install a breather or for any other purpose.
F. Intake water injection systems are allowed.
G. Fuel lines and pumps are unrestricted except as specified herein as long as they do not pose a safety hazard. Fuel lines may be no larger than 1/2" i.d. and may only connect to the original fuel tank or allowed fuel cell. They may be no longer than necessary for reasonable and safe installation, and may serve no other purpose. A single fuel feed line may be used. A single fuel return line may be used, and a fitting for connecting it may be added at or near the top of the fuel tank. This does not authorize "cool-cans".
H. Exhaust manifolds and muffler systems are free, except that they must be quiet and terminate behind the driver. Exhaust heat shields may be removed. Rear- and mid-engined cars without exhaust headers/manifold systems may use any exhaust system that meets the requirements of 3.5. This permits the removal of "heater boxes" in order to install headers on such cars.
I. One bolt-on torque suppression device may be used. A torque suppression device attaches from the engine to the body, frame, or subframe in one location, and controls engine movement at that location along a single axis only. It may serve no other purpose.
Examples of permitted devices:
1. ) a chain
2. ) a rod with spherical bearings at each end.
Examples of devices not permitted:
3. ) one or more solid motor mounts
4. ) any link which confines movement along more than one axis
5. ) an engine mounting plate, or one or more plates rigidly bolted between the engine and the frame.
Holes may be drilled to mount a torque suppression device. The installation may not include the welding of any plate(s) to the motor mount(s) or bodywork (7/2002), nor may it include multiple non-parallel links.
This does not allow motor mount changes other than those which are update/backdates of factory components.
J. The engine fan and fan shroud (unless it serves another purpose, e.g. as an alternator/generator mount) may be removed, modified or replaced. Electrically driven fans are allowed.
K. On two-cycle engines, the ports must be of standard heights, size and configuration; crankcase volume and reed plates must not be altered.
L. Any metal clutch assembly, metal flywheel or metal torque converter that uses the standard attachment to the crankshaft may be used. Non-metallic friction surfaces (e.g. clutch disks) may be used. Dowel pins may be added. Minor repositioning of the clutch slave cylinder is allowed to accommodate the alternate clutch, but the unit may not be relocated and the repositioning may serve no other purpose. This allowance does not permit the substitution of slave cylinders or the use of non-original methods of clutch actuation (e.g. pull type vs. push type).
M. Any mechanical shift linkage may be used.
N. Limited slip differentials are permitted. This permits locked differentials, either by design, welding, or mechanical means. Differential cases, internal differential parts, and axle stubs may be machined as required for clearance and installation to the extent that material may only be removed, not added, and the exterior of the case may not be altered in any way. This machining may serve no other purpose.
O. Cylinders may be rebored to .0472 in. over standard bore and the appropriate standard oversize piston may be substituted. Cast or forged, non-stock pistons of the same dimensions and configuration as original equipment pistons may be used. Additionally the replacement pistons must be of the same weight or greater as the original equipment pistons. The .0472 in. limit is absolute, no additional tolerance is permitted to accommodate wear. This allowance does not permit alternative ring configurations. (3/2002)
P. Rotating and reciprocating parts may be balanced but not lightened.
Q. Intake and exhaust ports and manifold openings may be matched provided no change is made more than one inch from the port/manifold interface. Material may be removed to facilitate port matching, but no material may be added. (3/2002)
R. Any transmission oil cooler may be used.
S. The engine cylinder head(s) may be milled only to that amount specified in the manufacturer's workshop manual. If no amount is specified than a maximum of 0.010 in. may be milled.
T. Axle/halfshaft and driveshaft retention/location devices may be installed for safety reasons to control the motion of attached shafts upon the failure of a coupling or universal joint. They may serve no other purpose.
U. Any accessory pulleys and belts of the same type (e.g., V-belt, serpentine) as standard may be used. This allowance applies to accessory pulleys only (e.g., alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and crankshaft drive pulleys). It does not allow replacement, modification, or substitution of pulleys, cogs, gears, or belts which are part of cam, layshaft, or ignition drive or timing systems, etc. Supercharged cars are excluded from this allowance. This does not permit replacement of integral pulley-damper/balancer assemblies. Alternate pulley materials may be used. Idler pulleys may be used for belt routing in place of items which the rules specifically allow to be removed, such as smog pumps and air conditioning compressors. They may serve no other purpose. Supercharged cars may not change the effective diameter of any pulley which drives the supercharger. (11/2002)
14.11 Out-of-Production Cars
Where a car is out of production and the manufacturer is either out of business, stocks no parts or no longer has a required part, a part of any origin but as similar as possible to the original may be substituted. The entrant must be prepared to show documentary evidence that one of the three circumstances above applies and that the substituted part is as similar as possible under the circumstances. Substitute parts which provide improvements in performance (e.g. superior gearing, lighter weight, better camshaft profile, etc.) are not permitted under this allowance.

How about some aggressive allinement setting for autocross. I got the Falkin 205-50-15's

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Mike

85GT 4-Spd 3.4 Stroker, cam, ported intake exhaust and TB. Natural weight reduction in progress(rust).
My other toy: WWW.IcantDo55.com

You did not read carefully the info that I provided. Look for the 01-02-2004 09:17 PM post and it is all in there!
"Alignment settings are 1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber and 0 to 1/8 inch toe out on the front with 2 degrees negative camber and 0 to 1/8 inch toe in on the rear."
BTW here is mine alignment settings:
Front Toe: 1/8" Toe Out
Front Caster: +5.5 deg - Just can not get enough CASTER, Target is +6 to +6 1/2 deg.
Front Camber: - 1.5 deg

Rear Camber: -1.5 deg
Rear Toe: 1/8" Toe In