I did a dummy thing. On my 85GT V6 2.8

I replaced my timing chain and sprockets and installed a new harmonic balancer. I put a new marking on the harmonic balancer which was about a 3/4" wide yellow line rather than a fine line. Right now she is not catching and not starting.

Yea - I know I is a dummy but this was the first time for me.

How do I determine the TDC marking on the harmonic balancer. Were do I put the mark in relation to the timing indicator on the engine?

HELP

Remove #1 spark plug. Rotate engine using a large ratchet and a 19mm socket on the balancer pulley bolt, while holding your pinky finger over the #1 hole. As it approaches TDC you will feel air rush out the hole. Put a small screwdriver in the hole and rotate very slowly until piston is all the way up. You are at TDC #1. Paint the mark on the balancer at the 0 degree mark on the engine. Also look at the rotor, it should be pointing directly at #1 cylinder, if not rotate dist. so it is......Paul

[This message has been edited by Paul Prince (edited 12-08-2003).]

Set it to #1 TDC as described above. Make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. Then on the new balancer there should be a line at about the 2 o'clock position. The Fiero timing mark is 4.600" to the left of the mark. This should put the line at 0* (+/- 1* depending on how close you are to true TDC.)

Assuming you never moved the distributor, Your timing should be right on.
That is how I marked mine and it started first try.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 12-08-2003).]

Oreif's reply was good, though not quite precise. There is a, for lack of another word, a dead spot of few degrees from when the piston reaches TDC and then starts to go down again. If you don't have a dial indecator and marking wheel, attach something (cardboard perhaps)near and behind the balancer. Trun crank as he advised and then as soon as the screwdriver (a small dowel would actually be a safer tool) stops rising with the piston, put a mark on the damper and another on the whatever you attached behind it. Next, very slowly turn the crank again until you feel #1 piston start to drop and mark that spot on the attached item. Do the whole thing again just to be sure. Now the difference between the first mark and secound should be true TDC! Mark TDC on the block tab and blancer. Set your timing with a light to #1 cylinder as per the book and then recheck it with number 4 cylinder. As per the book, reset it for the differance between the two. I.E. if #1 is 10degs and #4 is is 13deg set #1 at 12deg. nIf your running higher comp pistons and or a hyper chip and 93oct gass, you want as close to correct as possiable.

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Oreif's reply was good, though not quite precise. There is a, for lack of another word, a dead spot of few degrees from when the piston reaches TDC and then starts to go down again. If you don't have a dial indecator and marking wheel, attach something (cardboard perhaps)near and behind the balancer. Trun crank as he advised and then as soon as the screwdriver (a small dowel would actually be a safer tool) stops rising with the piston, put a mark on the damper and another on the whatever you attached behind it. Next, very slowly turn the crank again until you feel #1 piston start to drop and mark that spot on the attached item. Do the whole thing again just to be sure. Now the difference between the first mark and secound should be true TDC! Mark TDC on the block tab and blancer. Set your timing with a light to #1 cylinder as per the book and then recheck it with number 4 cylinder. As per the book, reset it for the differance between the two. I.E. if #1 is 10degs and #4 is is 13deg set #1 at 12deg. nIf your running higher comp pistons and or a hyper chip and 93oct gass, you want as close to correct as possiable.

The 4.600" from the original right hand timing mark was measured with a timing scale/marking wheel. It is very precise and if you mark it as such you'll find out it is the true TDC. I gave the measurement because just setting the piston to TDC (or what you might interpret as TDC) can be as much as +/- 2* off as you show. With the measurement, you can accurately mark the TDC easily.
The measurement was done using a degree wheel on the cam and a timing scale on the balancer and a dial indicator on the #1 piston with the heads off.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 12-10-2003).]