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wireing in a relay on my V8 by $Rich$
Started on: 11-21-2003 02:36 AM
Replies: 10
Last post by: tstroud on 11-22-2003 04:58 PM
$Rich$
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Report this Post11-21-2003 02:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for $Rich$Send a Private Message to $Rich$Direct Link to This Post
om my V8 car (350 with alot of goodies) i have the CSI electric waterpump, and i would like to wire in a relay or somthing to have he pump run for like 5 min or so after the car is turned off,
i had a VR6 jetta that had a seperate electric pump that did this,(stock) and i was just thinking it was kinda cool/functional, and wanna know how to go about doing it
my V8 car is bare bones, what ever is NOT needed has been removed, any info on how to go about this?
no hurry, the car is in a million pcs. and wont be back together till spring im sure(or later)

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Rich AIM one fast 2m8

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red85gt
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Report this Post11-21-2003 03:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for red85gtClick Here to visit red85gt's HomePageSend a Private Message to red85gtDirect Link to This Post
You need a generaric 4 wire relay to run the water pump from the bat. Next you need the get a tech wiz to build you a simple circuit board with a 555 chip to use as a timer. The chip is controlling a transistor and is timmed by a capacitor. Bigger the cap the longer the chip will keep the transistor turned on. Simple

[This message has been edited by red85gt (edited 11-21-2003).]

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1986GTV8
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Report this Post11-21-2003 08:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1986GTV8Send a Private Message to 1986GTV8Direct Link to This Post
Cool, I had not thought of this. But may use this on my remote Elect water pump.

I love this fourm!

John

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Fiero STS
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Report this Post11-21-2003 09:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero STSSend a Private Message to Fiero STSDirect Link to This Post
Just wire the relay to a temp sender. Then it only runs until cool and won't run if its not needed. Thats how most factory setups work.
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$Rich$
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Report this Post11-21-2003 12:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for $Rich$Send a Private Message to $Rich$Direct Link to This Post
intresting ideas

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buddycraigg
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Report this Post11-21-2003 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for buddycraiggSend a Private Message to buddycraiggDirect Link to This Post
I would be concerned about using the water temperature switch to operate a relay.
If the bulb isn’t submersed in water and is only getting it’s heat through conduction on the treads it may not get hot enough to operate the relay before it’s caused a problem

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todd
lets try this again...

copy and past this text in your sig on your profile
then add "[" before the URL line without a space between them
and add "]" at the end of the line without a space
then it should look correct.
***
That Todd guy

URL=http://www.thefierofarm.com/]www.thefierofarm.com[/URL
Bates City, MO
***


first go here

then you may have to re-sign in

then paste the text in this box and save it.

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-08-2004).]

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stuartlowery
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Report this Post11-21-2003 02:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for stuartloweryClick Here to visit stuartlowery's HomePageSend a Private Message to stuartloweryDirect Link to This Post
This may pose more problems than you think. #1 with the pump running you'll need the fan to run to cool the water more than just cycling it through the lines and radiator. #2 what about power drain on the battery? #3 what about those times you just turn the car over to check something and then the pump runs for 5 minutes with the fan. I'd say to actually use a temp switch. Maybe not in the motor but in one of the lines them selves. Or make a coupling in a hose with a temp sender in it. This way it runs only as long as needed. With that you can get an adjustable fan switch and use it to run your relay. When the water reaches a certain temp or lower it cuts off. So when you do those long drives it will run longer than if you just fired it to check timing or to show your friends what it sounds like. Longer run time = Fully charged Battery = ability and NEED to run pump system longer to sufficiently cool the engine down.
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LS1swap
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Report this Post11-21-2003 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LS1swapClick Here to visit LS1swap's HomePageSend a Private Message to LS1swapDirect Link to This Post
CSI makes what you want.... "CSI water temp digital gauge & relay CSI-1225 from summit" it is programmable from 100 to 300F. I use one for my fan. You would have to wire it in parallel to the way it is now

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LS1 v8 T-Top 87 GT

http://www.acxunlimited.com/ls1swap.htm

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tstroud
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Report this Post11-22-2003 07:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tstroudSend a Private Message to tstroudDirect Link to This Post
Should the water pump start with the engine so the engine warms up evenly? Do you want the heads to get up to 180 degrees and then have the water pump start and push cold coolant into them?
I think you would want the temp sensor to be located in one of the heads.
That is going to be the place where the water heats up first, and you will want the water to start circulating before it turns into steam.

Just a couple of thoughts.

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LS1swap
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Report this Post11-22-2003 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LS1swapClick Here to visit LS1swap's HomePageSend a Private Message to LS1swapDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tstroud:

Should the water pump start with the engine so the engine warms up evenly? Do you want the heads to get up to 180 degrees and then have the water pump start and push cold coolant into them?
I think you would want the temp sensor to be located in one of the heads.
That is going to be the place where the water heats up first, and you will want the water to start circulating before it turns into steam.

Just a couple of thoughts.

That is why I said it should be wired in parallel. The water pump should turn on as soon as the key is turned on. You would need two relays. One controlled by ignition positive voltage and the other controlled by the CSI unit. You could do it with one relay except for the fact that the CSI unit controls the relay through its ground. Not by providing a voltage to excite the coil in the relay.

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tstroud
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Report this Post11-22-2003 04:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tstroudSend a Private Message to tstroudDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LS1swap:

That is why I said it should be wired in parallel. The water pump should turn on as soon as the key is turned on. You would need two relays. One controlled by ignition positive voltage and the other controlled by the CSI unit. You could do it with one relay except for the fact that the CSI unit controls the relay through its ground. Not by providing a voltage to excite the coil in the relay.

That sound right.

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