Anybody know where to find these. Pepboys lists them but after ordering discovered they were discontinued. They then sent me to NAPA and they were clueless where to get them.
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01:23 PM
PFF
System Bot
Formula88 Member
Posts: 53788 From: Raleigh NC Registered: Jan 2001
PartsAmerica is Advance Auto Parts' web site, you can go to just about any Advance Auto Parts and they can order them for you overnight...they are $10 or $11. Nate
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09:07 PM
watts Member
Posts: 3256 From: Coaldale, AB, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
How much camber do you want? I've got -1.5 degrees without anything special. Could probably go to -2.0.
------------------ '87 Fiero GT: Northstar, Getrag, TGP wheels, rear sway bar, rod end links, bushings, etc. '90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: Leaking ABS unit fixed, load levelling rear suspension fixed, still slow
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11:56 AM
watts Member
Posts: 3256 From: Coaldale, AB, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
Partsamerica.com and Advance Auto carry Monroe AK-30. These are the least expensive ones I know of. These are one of the very few suspension parts I recomend instead of Moog.
The Moog/NAPA ones are dual cam. That means they have a second cam that slides over the threaded end like a big washer. The bolt has a flat side to make this work. The problem is that flat side allows all kinds of crap inside the nut and knuckle. These things tend to rust up far worse than ones like Monroe AK-30 that only have the cam welded to the bolt head.
I never quite understood the need for a second cam... It causes more problems than it solves. The single cam type performes the adjustment just as well and doesn't rust nearly as bad.
Yes... The cam bolts are all about getting an accurate alignment with minimal BS.
It can be done w/o the cams but most shops will just ball park the things and the odds of having even close to the same camber on each side are low.
------------------ Be alert. The world needs more lerts...
Yes, I'm looking for the eccentric bolts to make the alignment more precise and easier.
I just replaced struts on my 88 GT. A friend came over with a precision level and without the eccentrics it was a PITA to get the camber close to spec.
1) Lightly tighten the strut bolts 2) Install the wheel 3) Bounce the car 4) Install the level 5) Check the camber 6) Remove the level 7) Beat on the tire with a 4X4 driven with a BFH 8) Install the level 9) Check the camber - no movement 10) Jack the car up 10)Remove the wheel 11)Pound on the knuckle with a big brass drift and a BFH 12)Install the wheel 13)Lower the car 14) Bounce the car 15)Install the level 16) Check the camber 17) repeat ad nauseum
I finally got to within 1/2 degree of spec and called it good. I suspect that without the eccentrics most alignment shops would give up short to.
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06:48 PM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
i use a modified C clamp and a pry bar. and it goes pretty quick.
------------------ Buddy - there are two "G"s in my name Ling = 84SE-350-N2O-Poly-Mr.Mike seats-Sequential turn signals-short shifter Julia C = 85GT stock (mostly) KCFOG got a broken stud? car doesn't crank over?
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08:24 PM
PFF
System Bot
watts Member
Posts: 3256 From: Coaldale, AB, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
Funny thing is... After doing poly or struts or an engine swap or whatever in the back there, I've always "eye balled" the camber (ok, I use a T-square, but...) afterwards.
Anyhow, when I take it in for a real alignment after that, the guy at the shop is always dumbfounded at how I nail it within 1/2 degree! He doesn't even mess with it...
