is it possible to get a shorter clutch pedal? when i push it in i have to use my tip toe to get it all the way down if it was about 2 or 3 inches shorter it'd be a lot easier, any one done this? maybe i'll be the first

i haven't found one but would also like to have a shorter travel on the clutch pedal. my current daily driver is a corrola and it's clutch pedal only moves about 2", which would be really nice in the fiero.

Did you try adjusting the seat forward? Okay, now that the obligatory smart-aleck answer's out of the way...

Assume you mean you'd like the reduce the total distance that the clutch pedal has to move? If that's what you want (and assuming the clutch hydraulics are already up to snuff), a couple of approaches come to mind.

(1) Larger-bore clutch master cylinder.
(2) Smaller-bore slave cylinder.
(3) Shorter clutch arm on bellhousing + relocate slave cylinder.

All of the above would decrease the necessary stroke at the clutch pedal, and reduce the mechanical advantage... so pedal effort would increase, too. If suitable MC or SC's were available, it'd be fairly simple to implement concepts (1) and (2), but I'm not aware of any such aftermarket cylinders.

Concept (3) would probably require a redesigned slave bracket and clutch arm, but you wouldn't have to break open the hydraulic system. It could probably be designed to swap in/out fairly quickly.

(4) Just came to mind: One could fab a step-bore hydraulic "transformer" that you could splice into the hydraulic line, which would effect the desired ratio adjustment. The more I think about it, the more I think it's the approach I'd take if I really wanted to do it. You could even plumb the "transformer" (probably not an official hydraulic term for such a gizmo ) so that you could bypass the "transformer" with the turn of a valve if desired.

That way, you could go back to the way it was originally. Those are just some thoughts; almost anything gets a little complicated by the time the details are worked out, but the ideas are sound.

BTW, I think this is a first-time question. Are you sure you don't just need to adjust the seat? Just kidding .

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Duct tape a wood block to the clutch pedal...

i'm 6'4, so i don't think i need to adjust the seat what i want is less time between engaged and disengaged to make shifting a little quicker and lower the chances of me breaking my tranny when i get too excited.

I was going to suggest 'don't get excited'.

I was going to make a lot of other comments.

Then I realized that it would all be rude, impolite, and downright mean.

Sorry your Fiero isn't the kind of car that pleases you. Sorry it doesn't do what you want it to.

(Smile!)

Seems to me to be an unnecessary post in reply to a reasonable question,Tryxalon...why did you bother to read it. and reply to it? No flame intended, but that sort of input doesn't help anybody!!

someone should make an on off switch for the clutch, that would be the ultimate in short throw clutches. and use LOTS OF DUCT TAPE

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'86 Fiero GT

www.KylesFiero.tk

...Or, you could bypass the clutch altogether, and shift without using the clutch. However, while not impossible, I've found this to be difficult to achieve in the Fiero - very likely due to the long cables, and general "clunkiness" of the entire shifting mechanism. Generally, though, this isn't highly recommended. One slip-up, and you can cause damage to the gearbox, and sometimes the engine, too. Only mentioned it because it is something some people do.

ok well i just want to know if i can make the actual pedal shorter, like from the pivot point to where you put your foot i want to make it like 2 or 3 inches shorter,or if i could make it so it only had to move 2" that would would really well too, anyone have a way to do it? thanks for all the responses

[This message has been edited by rims05 (edited 11-04-2003).]

i had to push mine into the carpet to disengage, and it would fully engage a couple of centimetres off the carpet, I took the pedal out and bent it back as it should have been and now it disengages after about 2" of travel.

Some of the pedals are mild steel and therefore bend after 17yrs, check the search for posts on how to do it, it is really simple.

I understand your problem. being 6'4" means you probably have big feet too!
You could cut the pedal arm up at the pivot point and weld it back up. The contact pad for the clutch safety interlock/cruise control switch(es) would also need to be relocated as well.

ya know...my clutch pedal IS bent to **** ! i never even noticed that. i think i'll try bending it back into the original shape and see if that works better. thanks carlc.

I guess we're all assuming that you have the "good" parts in your system?
GM used an aluminum pedal, that's the one that would bend. There is a steel replacement available. (Fiero store??) Check it with a magnet. Also, GM used a "layered steel" pivot arm on the bellhousing, where the slave cylinder pushes. This too would bend under pressure. There is a forged piece available for that.I replaced both on my car when it had the 4 cyl. 5 spd in it. Made a big difference, but a shorter throw would still be better. I think a bigger bore clutch master cylinder would be the best/easiest answer. All you have to do is find one! Could you over-bore the original?
Kevin

quote Originally posted by white86: ya know...my clutch pedal IS bent to **** ! i never even noticed that. i think i'll try bending it back into the original shape and see if that works better. thanks carlc.

no probs, you will be amazed at the difference. you will also notice wear on the banjo and the pin on the clutch pedal, I welded additional metal to the pin and then grinded it to original size as there was a 3mm notch that had been eaten into it.

Good luck!!!

IF your car is a pre 88 the clutch is made of aluminum and over time it will bend, You can order a new steel one form FIERO STORE and solve problem....make sure and get a pair of the inexpensive bushings that are another problem that needes to be taken care of....1988's came with steel and only need bushings to be like new.

I made my own push rod for my clutch slave. I made it just short enough that when I bolted up the bracket that it did not move the clutch lever. My clutch now disengages about half way down to the floor.
I plan on doing the same thing to my other Fiero when I get time.
My peddle is steel in both my cars and they are an 86 SE and an 86 GT.

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Jake
Red 1986 GT 5 Speed
Gold1986 SE 4 Speed
Black 1985 GT Auto
Visit my Fiero Page

So you think that my pedal is probably bent? it does go allllll the way down to the floor and i do have big feet, i'm gonna see about the fierostore pedal when i get a chance, and i'll probably cut it a lil shorter just because that would make like a whole lot easier, thanks for all your help!

bump

quote Originally posted by rims05: well i checked it and it is bent but can i just take it out and straighten it?? or what do i have to do? i'm gonna see if i can cut out and inch or two from it and weld it back together

Yep...you CAN take it out and bend it back. However, it will just bend again over time. Take a magnet and try to stick it to the clutch pedal. If it sticks, it's metal...if not, it's aluminum. The steel pedals bend, too...I know, I had two of them that bent. The easiest way to check to see if it's bent is to look at it compared to the brake pedal. When they're at rest...you're not pushing on them with your feet...the clutch pedal should be an inch or two closer to the driver's seat than the brake pedal. If it's not..then it's bent.

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Mike...86 GT 4 Speed
"Sucks to be me..."