i'm in the process of shaving my door handles and mouldings, i was wondering what strength solenoid i should use to pull the door latch. funds are limited so i dont want to go with more strenght than is needed. my options are:
11LB pull
15LB pull
35LB pull
50LB pull

I was thinking the 15LB pull would be enough but i just wanted a second oppinion.

thanks,
AL

In most applications 15 lb is just enough to do the job, and sometimes will not pop the door open, espeially when the car is parked at an odd angle on an incline, with teh twisting of the chassis, it can take more pull to open the door, it doesn't take much.

If funds allow the 35 lb, go with those, but like I said 15 lb will work, just not as well.

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The Raven :Under Construction
"James" 1985 GMC Jimmy, 3.2L turbocharged intercooled hybrid 13.873 @ 99.08

"Speed Costs, How fast do you want to go?"

I've seen recommendations of 35 lbs for bearclaw latches and 50 lbs for old cars and trucks.

Given that a Fiero door and a Honda door are a little different in heft, I'd want to err on the heavy duty side. That Fiero door is about 90 lbs in weight.

quote Originally posted by FieroBUZZ: Given that a Fiero door and a Honda door are a little different in heft, I'd want to err on the heavy duty side.

lol...
Easy Smooooth, Easy...

dont forget you also need spring plungers (mounted in jam ) they are what push the door out
but man that is a kik a$$ mod i love it

How are you going to set up your back-up entry? Hard wired I presume.

Still trying to figure out were to run mine to incase the battery dies.

John

Timmer: "spring plungers" are know as Poppers, I've order 2 adjustable aluminum ones.

I'm going to have a manual back up on the drivers door. It will be a steel cable with a finger sized loop on the end somewhere outside the car for backup. To release the latch you simply pull on the Loop with pulls on the door latch.

So, will 35lbs pull be enough pull for the door latch soleniods??

Al

Sounds like a kewl a$$ mod! Where can I get info.....sellers...prices? Thanks.

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
If you found my advice helpful, please take the time to give me a positive rating. Thanks

I'm using all Autoloc products, I believe the other big name in shaved door handle electronics is SPAL?
www.autoloc.com www.autoloc.ca

I'm using the US products because there is more to choose from and I've been told they are of better quality.

I will most likely be using the SVPROA316 model, it has a built in alarm, 16 channel reciever, 2 4 button remotes, programable, 35lb solenoids........ I will be adding a Radar sensor to detect people before they touch the car and I will also be adding their paging system.

The price for that kit ranges between 500-800$ cdn,

you could do shaved door handles for FAR less, like 150-200$ for the electronics.

Yo, Silva - I bought my last shave kit from http://www.customclassic.com/ in Texas but lately I found http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/ in Manitoba fairly competitive. I would recommend getting quotes from both, with shipping and comparing. Nice guys run both shops, easy to deal with and I would definately buy from either again. Either could give you a recommendation on the solenoid, too. What strength you'll need depends more on the condition of your latch than anything else. Too heavy will bugger up your latch.

IMO, do it without the poppers to start. If you decide you need them afterwards, they're easy to add in.

quote Originally posted by fiero_silva: I'm using all Autoloc products, I believe the other big name in shaved door handle electronics is SPAL? www.autoloc.com www.autoloc.ca I'm using the US products because there is more to choose from and I've been told they are of better quality. I will most likely be using the SVPROA316 model, it has a built in alarm, 16 channel reciever, 2 4 button remotes, programable, 35lb solenoids........ I will be adding a Radar sensor to detect people before they touch the car and I will also be adding their paging system. The price for that kit ranges between 500-800$ cdn, you could do shaved door handles for FAR less, like 150-200$ for the electronics.

Thanks dude......I'm sure this will be of much help.

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
If you found my advice helpful, please take the time to give me a positive rating. Thanks

I would agree with 'StinkinV8' and not mount the door poppers 1st! In my replica, when unlatched(by remote), the doors actually 'pop' open as there is some tension within your window seal. It will open mine 1-2 inches. My door poppers are sitting in a box somewhere!
BTW... my solenoids are 15lbs and work fine!
Sandy

quote Originally posted by 1986GTV8: How are you going to set up your back-up entry? Hard wired I presume. Still trying to figure out were to run mine to incase the battery dies. John

ah, this is the beauty of this mod on fieros. you don't need to! the batteries in the back, assuming you leave the keyhole you can pop the trunk without power and boost the car which will give you all the power you need. if you shave that though, i think you asking for trouble. or it's not gonna be a daily driver i guess. when i do this i'm not planning on having a very accessible way to open the door. i think i'd be more likely to hook up a back-up battery so you got at least one more pop left no matter what.

[This message has been edited by fierce_gt (edited 10-31-2003).]

Stinkin_V8 thanks for the info, I live in MB so i will be checking out Velocity very soon.

Fierce: I will be shaving the trunk key hole however i will have a high current wire run from the + of the battery to somewhere outside the car so i could boost the car from the wire without having to get the trunk open. I will also have a mechanical link hidden somewhere on the car to open one of the door latches and another one to open the trunk if its latch ever fails.