One of the 'dislikes' I have is that the Steering column is a little shorter (close to the dash) than I would like. I'd like to sit back a little more (feet out) but then I'm too far away from the steering column.

I'm wondering if the Steering Column for a full size (Lesabre/ParkAvenue/Caddy/Delta88/Bonneville) or the Minivans (Lumina/Transport/etc) have the same mounting points?

The reason is that the 4-8" for the "shift collar" below the tilt mechanism might make it a little more 'comfy'.

Why? cause the Ignition switch rack in mine broke (ya know that part that you have to take it apart all the way -- even to the pivot pins?) and we know it is easier to replace the column (switching lock cylinders) than to take out the pivot pins without the tool.

I just shattered the old steering column trying to remove them using Olivers "bolt and vicegrips" method .. I 'levered' a little too hard on the pot metal!!

Does anyone know if they fit?
Or should I just get the measurements and go to the U-wrench-it yard tomorrow?

Just take the busted one with you.

It may be posible to install a tilt/telescope unit. That would be one worth looking at.

If you cant find a longer column then I have a suggestion.

I put a caviler wheel on Ling, it brought it about 1 1/4 inch closer, and I don’t like it myself, although it did make it easier to see the gauges. My friend that’s 6’2” said that it made it easier to get in and out of for him. I’m 5’7” on a good day so I really didn’t notice anything.

Or get an after market steering wheel. With the addition of the adaptor and all of the different wheels out there, you should be able to find something perfect for you.

Spent two hours in the U-wrench-it yard this AM going through several cars. A, B, J, N, C GM body styles to check the steering columns. The mounting system is totally different on all of them EXCEPT the mid-80's J (Cavalier) and P (fiero). It possibly could be adapted but would take a lot of work -- and I don't know I'd like it.

So the 'longer steering column' is a no go, but still have to fix the wobble, bad switch and other things with the one I have.

So. Came home, looked on line for the two "pivot pin" pullers I could find, saw one would take 72 hours to get and the other would take a couple of weeks and both of them over $20.

So, I took one of the three columns I have and smashed out a pivot pin. Damn, it, I'll just make the damn tool!

To the Hardware store. Find out the thread is #8 x 32 pitch. Bought a #8 x 32 pitch 2-inch long screw, a flat washer and two nuts.

The bottom nut fits against the pivot pin top to make sure the screw is straight up and down. A socket large enough to fit over the pin is used next, with a flatwasher and another nut on top of the socket. When the screw is 'set' into the pivot pin, this allows the tightening of the upper nut (moving it 'down' the screw.

By tightening the upper nut, the pivot pin is drawn up into the socket.

#8 x 32p itch x2- inch long screw $.07;
washer $.07;
2 nuts @ $.05 =$.10
total cost $0.24

That's 24 cents for a "pivot pin puller", folks. Works like a charm!

I have a picture, but can't post it!!

{edited for #8 vice 8mm screw!!
Thanks, BuddyCraigg w/(2'g's))

[This message has been edited by Tryxalon (edited 10-21-2003).]

pisst.
that #8 machine screw thread, not 8mm.

i hope no one got hurt.

------------------
Buddy - there are two "G"s in my name
Ling = 84SE-350-N2O-Poly-Mr.Mike seats-Sequential turn signals-short shifter
Julia C = 85GT stock (mostly)
KCFOG
got a broken stud?
car doesn't crank over?

Just to make sure.... The big metal bracket comes off the column. It's held by 4 short bolts. The four small bolts are the actual column mount, not the big bracket.

I'm pretty sure people have taken columns from other GM cars but I don't know just what ones.

The other columns had only the 'upper' mount (the one that bolts to the column with four bolts). Which of course COULD be done and then just change the 'tail' where it hooks to the Rack.

BUT the Fiero has 4 mounting locations two upper and two lower. I just didn't feel comfortable with that. Especially since I finally had the concept of the 'puller' gell in my mind.

I may try to 're-engineer' one of the other columns -- a tilt/telescope one at that, but I'm suffering Fiero Withdrawal!!
(with chemo and the rest of life interfeering, the simple replacement of a slipping clutch has gone on for almost a month!).

I need a 'fix' of 'driving excitement' !!

It is very possible and not all that complicated to use a telescoping upper part of the collum. It all is the same above the pivot bolts. About the only part that will visably be differant is the stearing wheel.

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: It is very possible and not all that complicated to use a telescoping upper part of the collum. It all is the same above the pivot bolts. About the only part that will visably be differant is the stearing wheel.

Then sir, as it is so 'uncomplicated', when you have the conversion procedure finalized, I trust you will share with us the 'step by step'???

Thank you.

For now: I'm going to go drive my car.

quote Originally posted by Tryxalon: Then sir, as it is so 'uncomplicated', when you have the conversion procedure finalized, I trust you will share with us the 'step by step'???

Send me a Fiero collum and a telescoping collum with enough money for return shipping and I will send a converted one back to you. The telescoping one needs to be out of an 80's or so car that has a wiper switch in the collum, same style as the Fiero. I'll take pics as I am building it and write a short story about the steps and you can post it. This shouldn't take more than about an hour and a half to do. Remember that you will need to use the donor car steering wheel to have the lock tab slot to the top. It does not matter if the pivot is loose in either collum.

I am basicly doing similar to my car except that I am installing steering wheel radio controls. U-Pull-it can be a fun place.

Okay, Electrathon. I admit to being rude and testy in my response! Please forgive me for the "snap".

I had just finished rebuilding my steering column from the ignition switch rack only to have it still be loose and the little bearing balls fall out all over the place with the first "tilt" in the car.

I am going to have to get another steering column as the bearings are "discontinued" and I'm anxious to get this thing back on the road. Trip to the recycler's today.

Some study of the shop manual does show (since the Steering Column pages are "common" to all manuals that year) how it would work, as you say, but it is not quite as simple as envisioned either.

The major problem I have is there is an upper and lower mounting bracket on the Fiero Steering Column. The lower, notched bracket is welded to the Steering column jacket assembly. The connection to the "rack" at the bottom is 'free-floating' on the Fiero. The other Other columns only have the upper (the detachable one with 4 bolts) and a stabilizing collar just below the floorboard - something the Fiero design did not have enough room for. When I 'tested' the upper bracket only, it didn't secure the column sufficiently to make me confident about it in normal driving ... never mind the potholes of Michigan or possible accident.

While it might be possible to combine intermediate shaft and upper gear from longer column, it would have to be with Fiero steering tube and that is too much 'reengineering' for this week!

But, thanks. I'll continue to look and study. The 'deep dish' wheel might actually be a better alternative. It isn't uncomfortable, just something I wanted and since I was "there anyway!" ..

Tryxalon

For a simple solution you could always install a Firebird wheel on (similar years). They have a deeper 'hub' on them that will move the wheel closer to you.

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: Send me a Fiero collum and a telescoping collum with enough money for return shipping and I will send a converted one back to you. The telescoping one needs to be out of an 80's or so car that has a wiper switch in the collum, same style as the Fiero. I'll take pics as I am building it and write a short story about the steps and you can post it. This shouldn't take more than about an hour and a half to do. Remember that you will need to use the donor car steering wheel to have the lock tab slot to the top. It does not matter if the pivot is loose in either collum. I am basicly doing similar to my car except that I am installing steering wheel radio controls. U-Pull-it can be a fun place.

I've seen the manual pages that show the parts for the telescoping column, but I've never found a telescoping column from which to cannibalize parts. Got any RPO or model availability information that would help us find one?

------------------
'87 Fiero GT: Northstar, Getrag, TGP wheels, rear sway bar, rod end links, bushings, etc.
'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: Leaking ABS unit fixed, load levelling rear suspension fixed, still slow

the only three cars i've seen with a telescopic wheel is cadi, jag, and subaru

Try... I think that welded bracket means the steering columns in Fiero changed at some point.

It's been awhile since I looked but I remember my 87 uses only the large one piece bolt on bracket.

I don't know if you could use a 87 bracket in a fiero like yours or not. If you can, it would probably simplify things allot.

Ogre:

The dual bracket seems to be neccesary with the design.

As I rebuilt the steering column (again, today) I noted that there was a requirement for the lower bracket. Tension is held against the socket and universal at the lower connection to the steering rack. This allows the pivot 'ball' in the midpoint of intermediate shaft to 'float' between the tension of the springs in the column. the lower mount and the 'kickback' spring at the bottom of the steering column work together to allow that intermediate shaft 'free rotation" in the bearings and floating between too low (the centering sphere would rub on the steering column lower support) and too high, (my problem where there was too little space and the upper race could not seal the upper bearing in place allowing the bearings to fall out). This balance of up/down; fore/aft 'centering' allows the internals of the steering column work.

However, Ogre .. I think that the design must have been changed. I only have 84/85/86 to work with. I think that you may be right and the 87 follows the design I found on all the other cars: a brace or mechanism inside a neoprene hood at the floorboard level.

The upper mount is the "support mount" and also has the sheer capsules for accident "give" as the steering column is designed to 'absorb energy". That requirement stays the same.

With the later design of the 'brace' on the steering rack itself, I think that they (Saginaw) eliminated the need for the lower brackets and the 'tail' of the 84-86 design.

By the way, Took three days of build, rebuild, and re-re-build with the parts of three columns (all three 'broken') education, trial and error and analysism even with the use of the Shop Manual.

But my "rebuilt' column works great! Smooth as silk and as precise as can be!

I'm going to have to get and analyse a telescope/Tilt. Park Avenues, Ninety Eights, and Cadillacs are the candidates (Saginaw Columns).

--Tryx

If you are going to do the change you will use the fiero parts from the pivot down, the caddy parts from the pivot up. The steering shaft can be separated at the pivot. Many of the high end GM cars will work as a donor.

It sounds as if you are trying to use the lower part of the collum and that is where your trouble is. Most of the differant models are differant under the dash with bracing and length.

You have been into your collum far enough to be able to do this. It is not much differant than what you did to tighten the loose pivot.

yeah, Electrathon.

I've learned a whole lot about Saginaw Steering Columns over the past week. A real education! :rollin