Hmmm, I wrote up my install in some detail and have it on Kazaa, but here are some parts. (I'm a former installer. The knees won't let me do it pofessionally anymore
)This part is basically a cut-and-paste summary of some of that article. I also installed a window-rollup unit and my car didn't come with power door locks but I address that somewhere below...
I don't like adding extra switches to my installs so I used a kit with five-wire solenoids that lock or unlock both doors when you manually operate the locks. I usually try to mimic a factory install by locating the solenoids where the factory would if possible but this time I mounted them on metal plates attached to the door panel support. The control unit has a negative lock/unlock trigger on the control unit to interface with the alarm. There were existing factory pin switches for the front and rear decklids and doors. I ran the wire harness through the existing rubber boots since the car had power windows and removed the three brackets that supported the door panel and handle as well as the paper vapor barrier. The door panel brace is parallel to the door lock rod and I attached the solenoid rods to the lock rods. I cut new moisture barrier from an institution quality shower liner purchased at Wal-Mart and used spray trim adhesive to put it on. The brackets were originally riveted on but I reattached them using large lag screws.
Alarm Harness (BULLDOG RS602E)
Fiero Wiring
Brown/Black stripe Lock pulse for door locks
Green/Black stripe Unlock pulse for door locks*
*Note: I am using an aftermarket door lock system. The factory door lock in a Fiero is known as Positive Door Lock configuration, see www.RELAYHELP.com for diagrams if you are using factory door locks.
Alarm Harness Fiero Wiring
Black/White (tachometer sensor) White wire in dash wiring (tach)
Black/Blue (safety switch)* Dark Green in dash wiring
*Note: Normally this would be for the front hood of a car, but since the Fiero's engine is in the back the rear pin switch should be utilized. The Fiero has a central door/hood ajar circuit that I used in the main cluster, a dark green wire in the instrument cluster wiring. This means the car will not remote start if any door or hood is open.
Violet (dome light) ground White wire at dimmer switch using relay to turn on courtesy interior lights. This is where you will use one of the fuse holders from the alarm kit (5-amp fuse).
Grey/Black stripe Black horn wire on harness using relay to ground circuit. Use another fuse holder with a 20-amp fuse.
White/Red stripe Grey/Black wire at trunk release relay to the right of the steering column. Use a 20-amp fuse holder and relay to provide 12 volts to this wire. All of the above relays can receive their voltage from the red ignition wires in the factory harness. Solder and tape these connections carefully, the power comes directly from the cars' battery!
Black/Yellow stripe Black/Orange or White wire coming from driver's side door ajar or door pin switch. They are in the doorjambs. The Black/Orange wire is from the 84-85 models where the switch is in the rear of the doorframe. Make sure it is in good condition. Later years only have the forward switch (White wire). Replacements are available at GM dealerships. Follow the wire harness to the drivers' footwell and tap there for a short connection.
Brown wire (parking lights) Brown wire at headlight switch
Grey wire (siren 12V+) I mounted the siren in the engine bay near where the battery used to be. This wire provides 12 volts +, the other wire for the siren is grounded. Use a small grommet where you drill through the firewall for this circuit. Keep the wiring short and away from the exhaust system.
Blue/Black stripe (brake switch sense) Okay, this one can be tricky. If your car is equipped with factory cruise control, there are two switches on your brake pedal assembly. The bottom switch should be the brake switch, and has a connector with an Orange and White wire coming from it. Attach the Blue wire with the black stripe to the white wire. This will kill the engine and sound an alarm if someone gets into your remote-started car and hits the brake without putting in the ignition key and switching it to 'RUN'. I usually avoid 'T-taps' but I used one here, wrapped the connection with electrical tape and tie-wrapped the wire to the factory harness to relieve strain on the connection.
Orange wire (ignition kill) Normally this would be used to interrupt the starter circuit so no one can jam a screwdriver or dent puller into your ignition cylinder and start your car. Ignition Kill will be used in the install, but this output will be used to trigger the window rollup circuit as well. First, cut the Yellow start wire on the ignition harness just above where you tapped into it for the relay harness (closer to the ignition cylinder) and using 12 gauge wire, connect a heavy duty relay to the wiring per the instructions for the alarm. You will have to make a little jumper wire for two of the connections and you can use 16-gauge wire there. If you are NOT installing the window rollup module you will simply attach the Orange wire to the correct relay terminal. Since I am using this output to roll up my windows, here is the change in wiring: The Orange wire from the alarm will now go to the trigger input on the window rollup unit (Yellow on the unit I purchased). The output from the window roll up unit will now go the starter interrupt relay (Orange output on the roll up unit). For power I ran a wire from the auxiliary fuse block using a 20-amp fuse and 12-gauge wire to the positive input on the module (Red wire). The power for the door locks (Red wire) was also run from this fuse block with a 15-amp fuse. The door locks, alarm/remote starter, window roll up module and glass break sensor all have to be electrically grounded. Each unit was equipped with a Black wire for this purpose and properly grounding these connections is vital for good operation. I found an unpainted dash support with a large screw attaching it to a brace and terminated all the grounds there. To test your work, roll down the windows and unlock the doors. Remove the fuses for the window rollup and door lock control. Reconnect the battery, and watch for smoke! Small gauge wires will burn quickly if they are wired incorrectly and current from the battery runs across them. Be ready to disconnect the battery at the first sign of problems.
For anyone attempting to do their own installs, here are a few good guidelines:
1 Have the right tools; an inexpensive multimeter, quality wire strippers, cutters and crimp tools. A soldering iron and practice using it before you tear into your car. UL approved electrical tape, nylon tie wraps and crimp connectors. With butt connectors, look at the ends. You'll notice that they are 'tubes' of metal, and there is a break where the roll meets. Never 'dimple' the crimp at the split, it may cause the connection to open up and break the connection, or allow critical wiring to short against other metal.
2 Fuse everything that is attached to a positive power source, but don't go overboard. An extra fuse block is a good idea. Make sure individual circuits can handle the maximum required by components.
3 Use grommets when going through metal panels.
4 Keep wire lengths to only what is necessary. A wiring diagram of your car will help eliminate redundant wire runs and keep crimp connections to a minimum. The less cutting and splicing you do in exposed areas the better. Extra wire should be good quality multi-strand copper, 10 gauge red wire for high current power connections, 12 and 16 gauge for other applications.
5 Tackle each circuit one at a time, double check and test your work as you go. Disconnect the cars' battery while working. Route wires and components away from high heat and wear areas or places water might invade. Tape and tie wrap connections and wire bundles to secure them. Use 'T-taps' sparingly since they are not as reliable as solder or butt connectors are.
6 Don't even consider installing or using a remote start if your car needs engine maintenance or repair, or if there are poor electrical conditions from damage or lousy modifications. Get fluid leaks, burnt wiring, rusted or corroded battery mounts and connections fixed first. The remote starter would be more like a remote detonator instead, and the Fiero doesn't need that reputation perpetuated!
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John DuRette
Black 85 SE, undergoing work as we speak!
If i had a power sunroof, it would control that 
