Went out to take a drive, tried to crank it; it turned over about twice and then "rurr-rurr-click-click". *sigh*
Put it on the charger for about 15 min. and it fired right up.
Few days later, same thing.
Friday I went to go to the store, and it nearly started before descending into clicks. Stuck the charger on it; the charger was set on 10A but the meter was reading 'way over, like the battery was taking 30-odd amps. (This charger has a 50A "start" mode, but it was in 10A mode.)
Anyway, then it started right up, after being on the charger for no more than two minutes. I tightened the battery cables and I'm going to see if that made any difference.
In short, I guess, I'm going to be watching this thread with some interest.
Ed
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07:55 PM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
my battery died a few weeks ago. I have a bad alternator. Other than that, I replaced the rusted battery lugs for a better connection and I'm going to get my alternator replaced. Unfortunately on automatic fieros, the alt is a PITA
------------------ 1986 Fiero SE
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08:14 PM
litespd Member
Posts: 8128 From: No where you want to be Registered: Aug 99
Friday I went to go to the store, and it nearly started before descending into clicks. Stuck the charger on it; the charger was set on 10A but the meter was reading 'way over, like the battery was taking 30-odd amps. (This charger has a 50A "start" mode, but it was in 10A mode.)
If your battery is pulling that many amps, it's bad. You need to have it load tested...that's the way to tell if it's bad or not. It may have a short in one of the cells...when you run the accessories, it works fine, but once you hit that battery with the amps required to turn the starter, it shorts out. Everytime I've had a battery that pegged the meter on my charger, I've taken it out and had it checked...and everytime, it was bad.
------------------ Mike...86 GT 4 Speed "Sucks to be me..."
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09:49 PM
rcromantic Member
Posts: 56 From: pittsburgh PA USA Registered: Sep 2003
power loss is most of the tyme symptomatic of bad connections. try taking off the terminal wire and brushing them and the terminals with a hard metal wire brush, BUT PLEASE REMEMBER, TAKE OF THE NEGATIVE OFF FIRST. aND WHE PUTIING THEM BACK ONE POSITIVE FIRST THEN NEGATIVE SECOND. head my warning or you will be headin to the hospital then the battery store. hope i could help, try not to get hurt lol
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10:33 PM
Sep 29th, 2003
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8872 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
There are so many tests to properly diagnosis the electrical system. But there are a few easy ones. With a multimeter, check the voltage of the battery without the engine running. should be around 12 to 13. check it again with it running. should be about 13.6 to 14.1. If you don't see any difference in voltage then the alt is bad. AutoZone, or maybe a local repair shop, can load-test your battery too. The battery has to be fully charged to load test, so it may have to be charged up first. Like I said, this is only a first step and may not answer your problem. Good luck, Kevin
------------------ 85 Fiero-based ASPP GT-40 MarkII. 3800 S/C, Auto, Held suspension all around with 2" drop spindles and sport fr. end. RCC bump-steer correction. Mr. Mike's interior.
If your battery is pulling that many amps, it's bad. You need to have it load tested...that's the way to tell if it's bad or not. It may have a short in one of the cells...when you run the accessories, it works fine, but once you hit that battery with the amps required to turn the starter, it shorts out. Everytime I've had a battery that pegged the meter on my charger, I've taken it out and had it checked...and everytime, it was bad.
Before you do anything else, pull the battery and have it tested.
How you test the battery depends on what testing system you use.
If you use a traditional resistance load tester the battery MUST be FULLY charged on a slow rate. (Fast charging may get you going but is bad for the battery.)
If you use one of the new computerized testers... These can test in almost any state of charge. These are purposly built this way so you don't waste time charging a fried battery. They are also safer... Charging a fried battery can be dangerous.
Once you are certain the battery is good, have the alternator tested. This can be done with it still in the car. Advance, Autozone, PepBoys, Sears, and tire/battery stores like NTB can all do this and I beleieve all are free. (Most chain parts stores can do this.)
Once those two things are confirmed good. Replace the battery cables and read Wire Service and the Battery articles in my cave.
------------------ Be alert. The world need more lerts...
All right. Took the battery out and put in the one from my '86, which is not exactly in operating condition right now anyway (considering that its intake and one of the heads is sitting on a shelf... ). The '85 cranked and fired right up despite the fact that this battery has been sitting on the floor since mid-July.
There's about 8 months left on the warranty of the bad battery. The one from the '86 was apparently new in February. Hmm.
Thanks all!
Ed
EDIT: Quote didn't work the way I'd expected it to...oh well. Removed it.
[This message has been edited by edhering (edited 10-02-2003).]
). The '85 cranked and fired right up despite the fact that this battery has been sitting on the floor since mid-July.
