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Rebuilding Engine: Lower Intake by RotrexFiero
Started on: 08-03-2003 02:50 PM
Replies: 4
Last post by: RotrexFiero on 08-03-2003 09:14 PM
RotrexFiero
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Report this Post08-03-2003 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroDirect Link to This Post
The lower intake, the one that is wedged between the two cylinder heads has a RTV sealant on both front and rear to seal it. I have tried twice, followed the torque sequence but have not been able to achieve a absolute seal on both side. I have the sealant there, but I dont have metal touching metal. How close are the two suppose to meet? I have approx. 1/8 inche gap. Will RTV be good enough?

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87 Fiero GT (Rotrex Supercharger)
Rebuilding Engine! Check Website under FIERO REBUILD!
WWW.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

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Report this Post08-03-2003 03:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Did you mill the heads or block? If so, you may have changed the geometry of the intake mating surfaces. When I did my 2.8 I had a gap of around 1/16", and I used straight RTV for the end seals.

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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post08-03-2003 03:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroDirect Link to This Post
Yes cylinder heads were milled...that explains it. Also a heavier head gasket. Did the RTV hold? I dont want leaks!!

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87 Fiero GT (Rotrex Supercharger)
Rebuilding Engine! Check Website under FIERO REBUILD!
WWW.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

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Phaeton
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Report this Post08-03-2003 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PhaetonSend a Private Message to PhaetonDirect Link to This Post
I don't have the instructions you are using but I have used RTV. For an eighth inch gap the bead should be almost a quarter inch high and three eighths wide on the bottom, let it skin over then put the lower manifold straight down without side sliding and torque to spec. The RTV should barely bulge out at the joint. Let it cure for another hour and it should be good to go and last until the next teardown.
A caulking gun with the appropriately sized tube is easiest, but it can be done with the toothpaste style tube, just don't be afraid to wipe it all off and squeeze out a fresh line a couple times, blobs and corrections are not acceptable.

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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post08-03-2003 09:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroDirect Link to This Post
I fabricated a small gasket from cork and used some RTV to hold it in place and secure it. Looks great. Third time it looks great and I have more confidence that it will hold and not leak. Better to be safe than sorry. I was going to chance it, but thinking a half-hours work now is better than three later. Or worse, a perpetual oil leak.
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