This is purely informational based on my experience repairing the dreaded metric brake line that runs the length of the Fiero. I figured this could help some people out in the future, so here goes...

Well, like some Fiero owners, my brake line that runs from the proportioning valve (the brass block by the master cylinder) back to the brass "T" connector at the rear passenger wheel corroded & failed.

Normally brake line repair is a simple affair, but the geniuses at GM used (what appears to be) a non-standard sized metric fitting at each end of this line. The line itself is also metric, too (it's slightly less than 1/4" in diameter). This nonsense isn't available from GM, and no one seems to have metric fittings that large (it's M14, by the way). Metric brake line seems to be as scarce/extinct as the M14 fittings...

Most of us would love to replace this with stainless steel from places like inlinetube.com, but when you don't have a lot of money to spend, what do you do?

Well, what you do is remove your old line from the car, trying to be as careful about it as possible (you'll use this as a template later). Try to be as careful with the fittings as possible - we'll be using those, too. Next, go out and purchase the bulk 1/4" brake line available at most auto parts stores (comes in a coil that's 25 feet long - more than enough).

If you haven't got yourself a flaring kit, go out and buy one (I bought a standard double-flaring kit).

When you get home, you want to copy the layout of the old brake line as possible. The amount of patience spent on this step is directly proportional to the quality of the job. Once you've completed the bending of the new brake line, it's time to put the fittings on that we saved from the old line. However, they won't fit since the 1/4" line is bigger than the hold in the fittings.

Simple solution - get your drill with a 1/4" bit and re-drill the hole. Now you can put the fittings on the new line....then do a bubble flare (basically just do the first part of the flaring process and stop there). This isn't a "metric bubble" flare, and will differ from the flares on the original line. If you purchased a flaring kit that can do the metric flares, then you're better off.

Anyhow, while the newly-flared line will differ slightly in it's flares, it will work. All you need to do now is re-install the line and bleed your brakes. You're good to go for about another 20 years...

Good luck!

Or you could buy CNC mandrel bent stainless steel replacements from the Fiero Store.

84-87 $159.95
88 $179.95

Not cheap, but like you said, only every 20 years or so. Not to mention the expense and your time to reproduce these. And you don't have to worry about your homemade lines not being done right.

Yeah, you can do it that way or just buy sections like I do and piece them together with a connector. Several 5ft pieces and by the way, you can get small pieces about 1 ft long with one side standard and one side metric of diff configuration thur NAPA and most auto parts stores. Just screw it all together. Good luck!

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
87 FIERO CPE 2.5 5spd
86 FIERO SE 2.5 AUTO
87 FIERO GT 2.8 4SPD
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Well, I'm cheap, so my expense and time were worth it. I spent about an hour duplicating the line. I'm experienced & well practiced at bending brake line, so that wasn't an issue for me.

I could have purchased individual sections and pieced it all together, but I preferred not to do it that way. I wanted a single line similar to the original, and as few connections as possible, without spending a small fortune.

I really would have loved stainless steel lines, but I can't justify it at this point in time. I'm not complaining, though - the new line I put in follows the original contours of the old line, bolts right into place, and best of all, it doesn't leak.