I have an 86 SE v6 and a few days ago me and my buddy checked out the 0-60 time, unofficially, with a stop watch inside the car.

the car hit 60miles per hour in 11.23 seconds. That seems awful slow to me so i am looking for some SMALL ways to improve that time. Some jobs that could be done by an average mechanically inclined person within half a day or so. (with some breaks )

I have an exhaust leak right now that i need to fix, so that should help alittle bit, but any other ideas?

thanks

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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that does seem awful slow. I dont think an exhaust leak would make that much differance. Does the car feel that slow? run bad? make sure you're throttle cable isnt stretched, it may be keeping you from getting full throttle.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: that does seem awful slow. I dont think an exhaust leak would make that much differance. Does the car feel that slow? run bad? make sure you're throttle cable isnt stretched, it may be keeping you from getting full throttle.

It does feel awful slow, but i never really thought of it before because whenever i happen to line up against a civic i manage to beat it

but i will check the throttle cable, that sounds like a good idea

thanks

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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"I have an exhaust leak right now that i need to fix, so that should help alittle bit, but any other ideas?"

While you're fixing the exhaust leak the exhaust manifold obstructions could be ground out for better flow.

Craig

quote Originally posted by crgkstnr: "I have an exhaust leak right now that i need to fix, so that should help alittle bit, but any other ideas?" While you're fixing the exhaust leak the exhaust manifold obstructions could be ground out for better flow. Craig

which obstructions may these be?
would this be like porting the manifolds?

thanks

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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Is this car equipped with an auto or manual transmission?

quote Originally posted by Lambykin: Is this car equipped with an auto or manual transmission?

Yeah, was just about to ask the same question. If it's an auto, at what RPM does it shift?

(FYI, my 86.5 GT V6 does 0-60 in 8.7s on a good day and 9.7s on a bad day)

11.XX Seconds does indeed seem alittle slow, I timed mine one day and it was about 10.XX Seconds, with a 2.5 Auto. Have you done a tune up recently? Are your injectors clogged up, timing good. It says in your sig that it is 'In Progress', so maybe it has been done. Other than that, check for a plugged cat (if it is there), or a plugged muffler.

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What about a clogged cat?
That minus a good tune up and clogged injectors could account for the slow speed.
My 86Gt auto is now in the high sevens for 0-60 and low eights on a hot day, how much mileage on your engine?

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1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
Auto, soon to be 5 spd Getrag from 88 z24, 0-60 low 8's. Best 1/4 = 16.1 at 85mph, mods, wires, CRX intake, and power pulley. Planning Turbo 3800 swap.

Bought for 2500$ Canadian.

My '86 GT could only pull a ~14sec. 0-60 when it had a clogged cat. I didn't know the cat was clogged at the time. I discovered it later and removed it. I haven't tried a 0-60 run yet without the cat though. Even so, the car still feels slow.

I had an '86 SE that ripped @$$. I managed a top speed of 135mph. It was calculated, of course, since the speedo only went up to 120mph. The difference in power between my SE and GT leads me to believe that someone put a 3.4 into the SE. The engine compartment looked stock.

Larry S.

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i have the same problem. 85 gt auto. runs high 11-low 12 sec 0-60's. removed cat, no difference. timing is right on, over 200 000KMS on engine. not sure where else to check. next will be muffler, but i dunno, spark plugs and wires are good. i think the ignition coil needs to be replaced though, any chance that could solve my/our/your problem?

It is an 86SE auto with 176,000KM on the odometer.

I have replaces all the exhaust from the manifolds to the tips last year. I have replaced the 02 sensor, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ign module (all supposed to be performance) i removed the throttle body and cleaned it very well, i cleaned the TPS and the IAC, i have been trying to test the EGR, but thus far unsuccessful.

I was looking at the cruise control vacuum thing near the engine today and i noticed the cable that attaches it to the throttle body. What little hole should this cable be in on the vacuum pump thingy?

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: Yeah, was just about to ask the same question. If it's an auto, at what RPM does it shift? (FYI, my 86.5 GT V6 does 0-60 in 8.7s on a good day and 9.7s on a bad day)

first shifts at redline, then second at about 4.5/5 hear there and progressivly lower.

i will check that later too for exact numbers...

later today or tommorow i am goin to check and see if the throttle cable is streched.

thanks again

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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[This message has been edited by Phil86SE (edited 07-30-2003).]

Almost ever reply has the word "time" in it. So there is a hidden message here. For your Fiero, I believe the correct "timing" is
10* BTDC. It has got be right. When I got my '87 auto it was set at 2* BTDC. The power was just OK and the gas mileage was crap. Now at 10* BTDC, I think I can get to 60 in 6.5sec. (Not really) But faster than before.

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get yourself a good tune up... everything fresh maybe? i dunno.
i ran a 7.5 the other day and its basicly stock excpet a k&n... seems pretty good to me

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: It is an 86SE auto with 176,000KM on the odometer. first shifts at redline, then second at about 4.5/5 hear there and progressivly lower. i will check that later too for exact numbers... -Phil

In 2nd gear you should still be going up to 6000 rpm. Does it seem as the RPMs rate of climb is slower when in 2nd gear than when it's in first? If it does, You have either an obstruction or a vacuum leak.
To test the EGR, just start the car (when cold) and let it idle. Then while wearing a glove you can push the underside of the EGR up. If the car "stumbles" the EGR valve itself is working. This doesn't mean the EGR tube may still have a vacuum leak due to a crack.

Here is another test to try. Place your foot on the brake and push on the gas pedal with the trans in drive. The RPM's should climb to about 2000-2200 rpm and stop (even if you continue to push the gas pedal). This is the brake stall of the trans/converter. If it goes higher than 2200 rpm or it varies (oscillates), It could be possible the trans is slipping. This could account for your slow times.

The only other thing that could be possible is the cam could be worn. But usually you would hear the rockers chattering loudly and you would get some mis-fire at the higher RPM range.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.

If you are shifting out of first gear at redline (6000 rpm) you have gone way past your power curve. Your power starts to drop off dramatically after around 4500 to 5000 rpm or so.

My 85SE v-6 4spd does 0 to 60 in 7.8 seconds according to my G-Tech.

The engine is a Grooms long block standard re-build which is actually a 2.9L now. Everything on the engine is stock except that I ported the intake and exhaust manifolds.

which obstructions may these be?
would this be like porting the manifolds?

thanks

-Phil

Yes, I meant porting. I wouldn't do it if I didn't have to take the firewall side manifold off to fix the leak. Not sure if it would affect the 0 to 60mph times much.

Craig

[/QUOTE]

When you removed the throttle body you did re-adjust the TV cable, right? If not adjusted properly they WILL cause slippage and eventually you will lose a gear.....Paul

quote Originally posted by Oreif: To test the EGR, just start the car (when cold) and let it idle. Then while wearing a glove you can push the underside of the EGR up. If the car "stumbles" the EGR valve itself is working. This doesn't mean the EGR tube may still have a vacuum leak due to a crack.

I'm trying to diagnose a code 32 in my car and did this test, however with a hot engine but with the vacuum line disconnected. There was no difference whatsoever under idle. So what does that mean?

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: I'm trying to diagnose a code 32 in my car and did this test, however with a hot engine but with the vacuum line disconnected. There was no difference whatsoever under idle. So what does that mean?

If you move the diafram and it doesn't stumble, It usually means the ports under the EGR are carboned up. If you want the EGR to work, you need to remove it and clean the ports. Usually this won't set a code 32. Disconnecting the EGR vacuum hose won't set a code 32 as long as the vacuum line is plugged.
The EGR solenoid is what sets the code.
It is located near the thermostat housing. Basically it is a vacuum switch to turn the EGR on. The first thing to do is check the vacuum line going to the solenoid. It is hooked to one of the hard plastic vacuum lines and the hard plastic lines tend to crack or split. If the line going to the solenoid is good, Then check the hose going out. There is also a short hose that goes from the bottom half to the top (one is the vacuum, the other is the switch. If all good, then it could be the solenoid switch is sticking (or stuck). I have removed them and used a cleaner spray like a TV tuner cleaner or contact cleaner. Just spray it inside thru the vacuum port (the section with the electrical connector) and shake it up. Tap it a few times on a table, then let it dry out. I've porbably cleaned a dozen or so that this has worked to correct the code 32.

If you want to test the solenoid, a small hand vacuum pump can be hooked to the vacuum in. Then plug the vacuum out line. You should measure an open or a short depending on if vacuum is applied or not. (I think it's open without vacuum and shorted with vacuum) This is what the ECM reads to make sure the EGR is working. If it doesn't change (stuck open or shorted) it sets the code 32. It will even set the code if you read a high resistance like 1K ohm when it's suppose to shorted. (contacts inside being dirty and not making good contact)

Hope this helps.

I'm not sure if I want the EGR to work.

Anyway, the reason I disconnected the vacuum line from the EGR is not only because I'm trying to diagnose the code 32, but because I wanted to know if it was related with a strange problem I'm having.

Let me recap: About 1.5 years ago, I blew my engine. I was doing around 110mph and when I slowed down I heard a knock in the engine. Turned out there was not a drop of oil left in the engine.

So I had the Fiero garage here in the Netherlands replace the engine. While I was at it, I also had them install an Edelbrock HiPerf cam. When I got the car back I never took it above 3000 RPM for the first 1000 miles or so.

But with the new engine and the HiPerf camshaft I expected it to be quite a bit faster than with my old engine. Much to my surprise it wasn't. In fact, it was a few tenths slower (0-60). I noticed they had set the timing at 4*, which I thought was quite rediculous. The garage was at first unwilling to set it any higher (all kinds of excuses that I would blow a hole in my pistons and stuff like that). Because I kept on nagging about it, they finally set it to 6* which of course made no difference. Then I had them set it to 8* and finally 11*. Still no difference whatsoever.

Now another weird thing: sometimes the car is amazingly fast. I start the car and immediately you can feel the difference. I mean, we are talking about such a big difference that I have to adjust my driving style just so the rear won't break out in corners and stuff. Unfortunately, there aren't many places around here where I can test 0-60 times, but if I had to guesstimate, I would say 0-60 in under 8s. This power-surge will last as long as I keep the car running. As soon as I turn off the ignition and start the car back up again, the power is gone, and it's back to the usual 9.4s for 0-60.

It rarely does this, so I still haven't been able to get exact acceleration times.

Anyway, besides those power-surges, there's a huge difference between the first 20 minutes or so after starting the car, and the time after. The first 20 minutes, the car is ok acceleration wise (8.7s-8.8s). But after those 20 minutes I loose torque in the higher RPMs. So from 1000-3500 the power feels the same, but above that the power is absolutely gone and my 0-60 times rise to 9.5s-9.7s again.

When I'm on the highway, I get a code 32 around the same time it looses power.

So to be sure the power loss isn't related to the EGR recirculating exhaust gas, I disconnected and plugged the vacuum line going to the EGR. This made no difference and I still loose power after 20 minutes or so. The valve doesn't seem to be stuck, and like I said, moving it by hand didn't make any difference under idle. So I think the problem isn't related to the code 32.

The weird thing is that under all circumstances, the engine sounds great. It purrs under idle, it just looses power in the higher RPMs after a while.

Now the garage keeps saying that I shouldn't expect 0-60 times below 9s, even with the HiPerf camshaft (even though when they sold me the cam, they said I would get a 20hp gain and would get much better 0-60 times).

Needless to say, I'm a bit disappointed - not only with the no-performance gain from the camshaft, but also with the garage's attitude towards this problem. They haven't really been very helpful (to say the least).

Edited for spelling

[This message has been edited by Cliff Pennock (edited 08-01-2003).]

Forgot to mention, the solenoid is ok. Or at least I think it is because I've tried 3 different ones and none solved the code 32.

Hey everyone, sorry since it has been so long since i have replyed to my own post but my internet has been down.

but anyways.
I re-checked when my car shifts and when i have it pedal to the metal it shifts just below 5000rpm when changin from first to second and second to third.

My lifters seem kind of noicy too so my cam may be worn. I am yet to check the timing however, i have had no time.

And when i removed my TB i did not adjust my TV cable. How do you do this and which one is the TV cable. I am off of work early tommorow so i will have time.

One last thing. other than low tranny fluid is there anything else that may cause my tranny to slip?

i am goin to try to narrow it down to tranny slippage, timing, or cam shaft lobes worn.

thanks again to everyone who has helped

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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Cliff,
Judging by your post, It sounds like the "20 minute" thing is a constant. (You can get the car to do it often).
Just out of curiosity, try this. Drive the car for the 20 minutes, When it acts up, Turn the car off and short out the ALDL connector, start the car and drive it. (The check engine light will flash) If the car seems slow right away, Then the problem could be something is telling the computer to go into "limp mode" (Open loop) This means a sensor is bad and the computer is not going off the feedback from the engine.

It could be the ECM temp sensor is bad. With the 20-minute thing, it sounds like something is expecting the car to "warm-up" but it never gets the signal so it "times out". The Temp sensor sticks out horizontally from the intake manifold just below the thermostat housing.

As for your EGR code 32, When they had the engine apart, did they hook the vacuum lines up to the right locations? If they hooked the vacuum from the solenoid to full vacuum instead of ported vacuum, that could cause your solenoid to always be "on". HMM, I wonder if they swapped the ported vacuum and the full vacuum lines from the MAP sensor and the EGR solenoid??? The MAP sensor should have full vacuum attached to it to read the pressure, If ported vacuum was attached it could cause some strange fuel management readings. You could check them with a vacuum gauge. I'll see if I can locate a vacuum routing drawing. There is usually on the decklid but I know mine was removed when I had my decklid redone.
If they were "reversed" this could be the answer to both problems.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 08-02-2003).]

bump!

i will be workin on my car today if anyone could help me with the TV adjusting problem i am having.

it is stated above...
(where is it?, how do i adjust it)

thanks

-Phil

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: bump! i will be workin on my car today if anyone could help me with the TV adjusting problem i am having. it is stated above... (where is it?, how do i adjust it) thanks -Phil

Phil,

You need to have somebody sit in the car and pump the gas pedal a few times then floor the pedal and hold it. (engine NOT running )
Then the TVS cable is mounted thru a bracket on the firewall side of the engine. Just on the Throttle body side of the bracket is a box that the cable passes thru. On the underside is a large button. Although some are tight, you depress the button while the gas pedel is floored. You should hear a slight click. This means that it adjusted itself. I have found out that if you repeat this 3 times, it seems to provide an accurate adjustment.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 08-02-2003).]

I am having no luck finding this black box, would you happen to have a picture?

thanks again

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: I am having no luck finding this black box, would you happen to have a picture? thanks again -Phil

Does this help?

that is more than beautiful, thank you very much!

-Phil

Ok, today i adjusted the TC cable.....but there is a new problem now....

ever since i adjusted that my car will not rev part 3500RPM when in drive, no matter how hard i hit the gas pedal or how far i have the gas pedal down. This is very very annoying as i am lacking alot of power.

my engine seems to be running harder now too and when i let go of the gas quickly when goin about 30mph i can hear little backfires....

any ideas on how to fix this?

thanks
-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
Rate me if i am of assitance please, thank you...

quote Originally posted by Oreif: As for your EGR code 32, When they had the engine apart, did they hook the vacuum lines up to the right locations? If they hooked the vacuum from the solenoid to full vacuum instead of ported vacuum, that could cause your solenoid to always be "on". HMM, I wonder if they swapped the ported vacuum and the full vacuum lines from the MAP sensor and the EGR solenoid??? The MAP sensor should have full vacuum attached to it to read the pressure, If ported vacuum was attached it could cause some strange fuel management readings. You could check them with a vacuum gauge. I'll see if I can locate a vacuum routing drawing. There is usually on the decklid but I know mine was removed when I had my decklid redone. If they were "reversed" this could be the answer to both problems. [This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 08-02-2003).]

Here's a diagram that I modified, originaly posted by someone else:

JazzMan

Bump, please anyone help...this is my daily driver...

thanks to everyone who has already helped

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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even though you replaced it last year, you may want to check for a clogged cat. if your car is out of tune the cat can overheat and clog quickly. then the clogged cat makes it much more difficult to troubleshoot the original problem. you can seperate the exhaust just downstream of the O2 sensor and try a quick run to see if there is a difference. After I did that with my car, I noticed a marked improvement. I cut my cat off and poured the pieces out, it was approx 90 percent clogged. just as a thought you might be able to tap on the cat with something soft like your fist (carefully)to listen for broken parts rattling about... good luck...

if i remove my cat all together what difference will it have on my car?

thanks
-Phil

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: if i remove my cat all together what difference will it have on my car? thanks -Phil

Emissions won't pass,
Horsepower will go up by 1 or 2
Low end torque will drop by 1 or 2
Exhaust note will sound "raspy"
(if clogged) Performance of what the engine use to be will return.

Well i could handle not passing emitions, we don't have them here

when i was adjusting the TV cable i found the button very hard to push, and i could only adjust it twice. And it seems like the button is stuck "in" now, if so how could i get it to retract?

thanks

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
Rate me if i am of assitance please, thank you...

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: Well i could handle not passing emitions, we don't have them here when i was adjusting the TV cable i found the button very hard to push, and i could only adjust it twice. And it seems like the button is stuck "in" now, if so how could i get it to retract? thanks -Phil

Disconnect it from the throttle body (Be careful the little clip sometimes "pops" off which is usually followed by a few "colorful words" )

Then remove it from the bracket, Spray some WD-40 into the button. You can use a small screwdriver to pop it back up. Push the button a few times and spray some more WD-40 to clean it so it moves freely. Re-install it and then re adjust it.

The TV cable has now been adjusted properly
curtosy the help from Oreif. My regards...

but me and my buddy went out to check the 0-60 time again, and no change. so next things next, im on to timming. I have never done this however, and i am wondering if there are any tricks or tips anyone can help me with, along with anything i should look out for.

thanks for the help so far everyone
especially Oreif...thank you

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
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[This message has been edited by Phil86SE (edited 08-05-2003).]

My 85 2.8l auto does 0-60 in high 10s, low 11s. i have no cat, egr tube is remouved and bocked off, apc cold air intake, vacume line from EGR valve is remouved and blocked off, my TPS is kinda ify works and doesnt. car has new spark plug cables, rotor, distributor cap, o2 sensor, temp sensors, IAC valve. engine has 215000KMS on it. TV cable and throttle cable are good and snug.

shift from first to second is at 5600rmp with pedal on the floor.

does this sound a little slower than it should be? any ideas?

[This message has been edited by fiero_silva (edited 08-05-2003).]

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: but me and my buddy went out to check the 0-60 time again, and no change. so next things next, im on to timming. I have never done this however, and i am wondering if there are any tricks or tips anyone can help me with, along with anything i should look out for. -Phil

Just short out the ALDL pins and hook up the timing light. Start car and check the timing. It should be at 10* BTDC. The top point is 0* and the bottom outward point is 12*. The timing mark on the balancer should be at the inward point just above the 12* mark.

Just out of curiosity, Did you ever check the throttle cable? The one that is hooked to the gas pedal. Over time these can stretch. Have someone floor the gas pedal and look in the TB and see if the throttle plate is full open. You could also have someone step on the pedal then manually see if you can open it more.