Maybe this will save somebody some aggravation.

As you may have heard, coming home from the 20th, my alternator decided to take a vacation of its own. Actually, I think one of the diodes shorted. It howled like a mad cat, and got hot enough to raise a blister on my finger. I do believe it was charging a little, but not much.
Made it home with a little help from my friends. (Thanks Don and Darrell.)

I discovered that changing the alternator on an 88 V-6, with an automatic is not a real big deal.
Had to remove the right wheel, and fold the splash shield up and out of the way. I removed the nut from the lower suspension links, and pushed the bolt out far enough to let the rear suspension link free of the knuckle. Once I did that, it was a simple matter to pull the alternator out through the wheel well. Had to pull down on the suspension link just a bit, but no big deal.

The bad?
Called around to several of the parts stores. The best deal I found was a ProStart (PepBoys house brand), brand new -not reman- for $119. Lifetime warranty.
The short story? It doesn't freakin' fit! The casting puts the hole in the adjustment lug about 1/16 inch too close to the pivot bolt. I couldn't get the adjustment bolt to thread into the hole. Close but no cigar. They'll be getting this one back.

The resolution?
I ended up taking the pulley and front casting from my toasted alternator, and swapping them to my old 4 cylinder 88 alternator. The connectors, and all the other electrical and mechanical parts seemed to be the same. Bolted it in and it seems to be fine. Still appears to be charging the battery even with the A/C on full blast.
Net cost? A few hours of labor.

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Raydar

88 3.4 coupe. 17s, cut springs 'n all.

While working on the broken exhaust manifold bolt on cylinder no.1 I removed the cooling fan tube that blows on the alternator and the dog bone strut bracket. With these out of the way there is plenty of room to take the alternator out through the top.

There may even be enough room if only the cooling tube is removed.

quote Originally posted by Carrolles: While working on the broken exhaust manifold bolt on cylinder no.1 I removed the cooling fan tube that blows on the alternator and the dog bone strut bracket. With these out of the way there is plenty of room to take the alternator out through the top. There may even be enough room if only the cooling tube is removed.

After having a few experiences with the Alt on my '87 GT w/Auto this year, I've decided that this method is my preferred way. I can quickly remove the dog bone bracket, cooling tubes (not present on '88s), and the alt bracket and everything comes out quickly.

Either way works (I've done it 3 different ways in the past 4 months), but hopefully I won't have to test the idea again. Ever.

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Looking for Fiero posters?

If you get the alternator the right way, it will fit out thru the rear suspension without removing any bolts. But it will only fit thru one way. I had to play with it a little, but figured it out. I've also gone out the top with the dogbone bracket off, but its just as easy for me to wiggle it out the bottom.

Aren't the alternators on the 88 models smaller that on earlier models?

quote Originally posted by Carrolles: Aren't the alternators on the 88 models smaller that on earlier models?

I've never compared the two outside of the car side-by-side, but as far as I can tell (from working on both my '87 and my Dad's '88) they are very similiar in physical dimensions... but they do run different plugs in slightly different locations on the alternator itself. Also, I believe that the '88 V6's used a CS-type alternator whereas earlier V6's used SI-type alternators See ogre's cave for more details on CS vs. SI alternators).

Replacing it thru the wheel well is the way to go. But the next challenge you run into is the actual tightening of the belt. I have got the job done by hook or by crook, but there has got to be a better way. What is it?

I've tightened the belt using two different methods.

Sometime I just use a prybar between the alternator and it's bracket working from underneath the car. Other times I use the belt tightening tool I got from JC Whitney. You place it between the alternator pulley and the crankshate pulley. Either end has a saddle like fixture that mates to the pulley. It works like a turnbuckle and expands between the pullies to tension the belt. If I remember correctly it cost around $10.00US.

quote Originally posted by Carrolles: Other times I use the belt tightening tool I got from JC Whitney. You place it between the alternator pulley and the crankshate pulley. Either end has a saddle like fixture that mates to the pulley. It works like a turnbuckle and expands between the pullies to tension the belt. If I remember correctly it cost around $10.00US.

I'd love to hear a little more about this tensioner you have - mfgr or part #? I've been using the prybar method (usually with a "helper") - and it's never easy!

Oooh! I think I just found it... part # 14ZX4946U for $9.99 http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=19942&BQ=null I think I'll be picking one of these up for future use! Thanks for the lead

[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 07-28-2003).]

I just use a BFSD (screwdriver) and pry between the alternator and the bracket.

Fformula88, I tried turning it every which way. Was always just about 1/4" too large to fit through. I'm not saying that it won't come out that way, but since the wheel was already off, it was a simple matter to drop the lateral link. (I'd be lost without air tools, though.) Would have been a cakewalk if the swaybar wasn't there.

Removing the dog bone bracket was a good idea too. Didn't even think of that. Maybe I'll try that, next time. I'll still have to get under the car to tighten the belt, though.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: ...I tried turning it every which way. Was always just about 1/4" too large to fit through...

Wonder if the guy GM got to enginer the alternator installation, was hired away from a company that makes those wooden puzzles? Hehehe... Just for that comment, bet my alternator fails tonight .

I was reading a Popular Mechanics today and it had a quick way to test the alternator to see if it was charging. What it basically said was that if you take a screwdriver and touch it the the rear main bearing cover of the alternator, while it is running, you should feel a magnetic field there if it is charging.

I have a custom exhaust system that leaves me with quite a bit of extra room in the area around the alternator. Removing mine is very easy and I dont have to remove the wheel or the cooling vent.

I wish Harbor freight sold those belt tensioners, I would love to pick one of those up.