The alternator is going bad. It's not terribly bad... it'll keep the battery relatively charaged. When off, the batter is at 12 volts. When running it reads 11.9 to 11.4 volts. That's when the battery light is flickering. I was told it should be at 14 volts.

Yay...

So, what tips does everyone have on swapping an alternator on an 88 4 cylinder?

Thanks

Make sure the new alternator pulley has the same number of ribs as the old one. Otherwise you'll destroy your serpintine belt. I think the 88's were 5 rib, but I've heard of folks getting pulleys for different applications.
LOL
88Ironduke

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use a long extension... like a couple feet long... so you can reach under the intake and have plenty of room to spin the wrench. You may also need a fex joint.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery. You also have to charge or replace that battery. It must take and hold a charge properly or you will have problems with the new alternator. You have to do that before instaling the new alt.

now would also be a good time to replace the belt tensioner. Most are pretty worn. Check yours carefully and replace it if needed. If that device doesn't work right then you'll have issues with everything the belt runs.

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Nobody loves me. Everybody hates me. Guess I'll just go eat worms.

I just changed mine b4 driving to the 20th.

1. Remove dog bone / trunk wall bolt.
2. Loosen other dog bone bolt and rotate bone onto valve cover.
3. Jack up passenger side. Put on jack stands. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Remove serpentine belt by cranking tensioner pully bolt clockwise.
4. Remove rear passenger wheel. Remove lower alternator bolt from underneath / wheel well.
5. Remove alternator bracket to alt bolt from on top.
6. Hinge alternator towards trunk. This will make electrical connections more accessible if you have A/C. Disconnect electrical connections at alternator. Remove alternator hinge bolt.
7. If you have an automatic like me, remove bolt that holds trans dipstick in place. Rotate dipstick out of the way.
8. Push engine towards passenger compartment while removing alternator at trans dipstick location (two people or some device to hold engine required).
9. Install in opposite order.

When I replaced my serp belt, I had to rotate the engine by wrench on crank bolt to make it ride onto one of the larger pulleys. Apparently the new belt was a tight fit. (I turned the crankshaft while my partner held tensioner at loosest point.)

I also broke a rubber vacuum line from throttle body to trunk wall. $1.50 fix.

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88 4cyl auto Fiero, AC, sunroof
"And isn't sanity really just a one-trick pony anyway? I mean all you get is one trick, rational thinking, but when you're good and crazy, oooh, oooh, oooh, the sky is the limit!" - The Tick

If you need it, the drive belt tensioner is a dealer part, GM #10041248. It lists for $68.31 at gmpartsdirect.com or $59.21 at paceparts.com. The tensioner also seals the end of the engine water jacket. As the Ogre says, that part goes out quite often.

Also, you can get the alternator out without removing the rear wheel. You do have to push forward on the engine (dogbone removed) and move the alternator to the left side of the engine to remove it. Helps to get the throttle cables out of the way first.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-21-2003).]

quote Originally posted by spark1: If you need it, the drive belt tensioner is a dealer part, GM #10041248. It lists for $68.31 at gmpartsdirect.com or $59.21 at paceparts.com. The tensioner also seals the end of the engine water jacket. As the Ogre says, that part goes out quite often. Also, you can get the alternator out without removing the rear wheel. You do have to push forward on the engine (dogbone removed) and move the alternator to the left side of the engine to remove it. Helps to get the throttle cables out of the way first. [This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-21-2003).]

I forgot to mention that you should move the air filter housing out of the way.

However, I had absolutely no problem with interference from the throttle cables.

And I would definitely recommend removing the rear pass wheel anytime you mess with the serp belt - unless you are a glutton for punishment.

And the longest extension I used was 6". ( thats what she said )

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88 4cyl auto Fiero, AC, sunroof
"And isn't sanity really just a one-trick pony anyway? I mean all you get is one trick, rational thinking, but when you're good and crazy, oooh, oooh, oooh, the sky is the limit!" - The Tick

quote Originally posted by spark1: If you need it, the drive belt tensioner is a dealer part, GM #10041248. It lists for $68.31 at gmpartsdirect.com or $59.21 at paceparts.com. The tensioner also seals the end of the engine water jacket. As the Ogre says, that part goes out quite often. [This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-21-2003).]

Does this seal leak often? I have a coolant leak from that area... thought it was the head gasket, but now having second thoughts. No water in the oil and not smoking. Still runs great! Any help or suggestions? Had this seal gone bad for anyone else?

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1987 Fiero Coupe
2.5L
5spd
Second Owner

[This message has been edited by Medford87Coupe (edited 07-21-2003).]

make sure the pulley nut is tight on the new alternator. the last alternator i put on my 88, lasted a month or two before it spun the pulley off and ruined it because the reman people didn't tighten it correctly.

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88 4cyl 5spd & 88 Formula 5spd

It is unusual but yes the tensioner could leak. could also be the water pump.

If water is leaking around the tensioner it’s probably due to corrosion of the aluminum casting and you will need a new one. The tensioner and the water pump housing are both made of aluminum and will corrode quickly if the coolant isn’t replaced every year or two.