I just want to know what components I need to replace when I get a code 32. I already have the EGR Valve, EGR tube, and EGR solenoid/sensor thing on the list. Is there anything else I should look into replacing?

Also on a side note. If anyone has an idea as to why the car would be hard to start sometimes when it is warm. Could this be associated with the code 32? The 32 is the only code that I am getting.

Thanks for any help.

PS used the search but didn't seem to come up with anything usefel, it could just be because I am stupid

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Josh Munilla

32 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor circuit failure
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve diagnostic switch - closed during engine startup or open when EGR flow requested by ECM
EGR/EVRV (Electronic Vacuum Regulator Valve)

The 32 code seems to be the most common error. When does it set the SES light? If at highway speed only with minimal performance problems, (not hard start)it may be a vacuum leak in the small hoses that go to the EGR selinoid.

quote Originally posted by JMunilla87GT: I just want to know what components I need to replace when I get a code 32. I already have the EGR Valve, EGR tube, and EGR solenoid/sensor thing on the list. Is there anything else I should look into replacing? Also on a side note. If anyone has an idea as to why the car would be hard to start sometimes when it is warm. Could this be associated with the code 32? The 32 is the only code that I am getting.

I wouldn't just go replacing parts blindly. That can cost a lot of $$$ and easily still not solve the problem.

mY GT started setting a code 32 last year. I replaced everything but the EGR tube only to still be setting the light. I got another tube only to find out that the issue was a 3 inch vacuum line that runs from the egr solenoid to the vacuum distrubution thing there by the solenoid. The darn line didn't cost me a penny--the parts store gaver it to me since it was a clipping---this is after I spent qutie a few $$$ on the system

Get the factory service manual and go through the trouble shooting page. YouI forget what you may need, test light, hand held vacuum pump ect, no exotic tools.

Your EGR code should not make you car hard to start. You may have another underlying issue.

thanks Rich. I will certainly do that. I have a new tube, and solenoid on the way. I think I am going to just pick up a new EGR valve while I am at it.

just a side note for anyone reading this. duct tape around the egr tube is a good temporary fix. it just melts right on and takes care of the leak. it doesn't get hot enough to incinerate the tape.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is why bailing wire falls short of the total number of automotive uses.

thanks again fellas. I think I will invest in the factory manual. i have been meaning to do this for a long time maybe it is a good time.

Old Lar it sets only at highway speed and only sometimes. I guess it looks like a more likely culprit is a vacuum leak. Doesn't Rodney sell an all metal replacement for all those lines under the manifold?

oh well i love my fiero i never feel bad about replacing parts.

quote Originally posted by JMunilla87GT: just a side note for anyone reading this. duct tape around the egr tube is a good temporary fix. it just melts right on and takes care of the leak. it doesn't get hot enough to incinerate the tape.

There is a new type of duct tape that is better than the original. It's that shiny tape that either Rodney or Fiero Store sells. You could use that stuff, it won't melt, will look better, and it doesn't leave behind all the sticky stuff that duct tape does.

I used this when I replaced my shift cables. I carefully cut the old sheilds off and rewrapped them on the new cable with the shiny tape. It works well (stands up to the heat) and looks OK.

yea i've seen rodney's tape. I am going to replace the EGR tube though. I was also thinking of wrapping my manifolds, y-pipe, and part of my exhaust to reduce heat in the engine compartment. that is completely off topic though, but for some reason i felt like sharing.

I use hard silicone tubing the kind to dress up an engine bay with a color. If you don't want to use that get fuel line that will barely slip over the hard plastic vacume lines. You can also put it direcly to the nipples instead of using the factory vacuume line ends but this can lead to kinking if it's a 90* end that you decide not to use. I have a tendacy to be rough with my factory lines and end up breaking then often. So to solve this problem I removed the broken line and cut 2" sections out of it for the ends. Cut the tubing to length rout is and put the hard plastic into the end and slide on the connector. No more worry about them breaking anymore. I have been told that this can lead to the tubing to flex and not deliver full vacuume to the system but I haven't seen any problems and I know many others that do it as well. Just a Poor man tip. I have many more.

quote Originally posted by JMunilla87GT: I just want to know what components I need to replace when I get a code 32. I already have the EGR Valve, EGR tube, and EGR solenoid/sensor thing on the list. Is there anything else I should look into replacing

Here's an image I got from another post on Pennocks, I added additional info for the solenoid:

You'll note that the blue line that runs from the EGR valve to the top of the solenoid in the illustration has a T that connects to a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch is the small square block that's bolted to the EGR solenoid bracket. When the ECM commands the solenoid to send vacuum to the EGR valve, it senses this vacuum with the vacuum switch. If it doesn't see vacuum when it thinks it should, the ECM sets a code 32. The ECM will also set a code 32 if the solenoid is shorted or open, but that's very, very rare. Normally something breaks on the vacuum lines between the switch, the solenoid, and the valve. Also, the valve itself can develop a leak in the diaphragm. Note that the ECM cannot tell if the valve is actually working, only if vacuum is present or not.

You can do a quick test of the valve. With the engine off, disconnect the vacuum line to the valve. Reach up under the valve dashpot and squeeze the diaphragm up, then put a fingertip over the nipple on the valve. Let go of the diaphragm, it should stay up as long as you have your finger over the hole. Release your finger, the diaphragm should quickly close. Reconnect the vacuum line to the valve.

Next, start the engine and let it run until the idle is steady. With the engine running, manually open the valve by squeezing the diaphragm with your fingers, like you did on the previous test. The idle should drop and the car should start running poorly. Releas the diaphragm, the idle should smooth right out.

If both of these tests pass, then the problem is with the vacuum lines or the solenoid itself.

JazzMan

you guys are F'in awesome. Thanks for that schematic.

I already used the silicone hose technique on a couple of lines it seems to work really well as far as I can tell, but then again I am having a code 32.

I think I am going to remove the upper plenum(i wanna paint it anyway) and try to redo all the lines.

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: Next, start the engine and let it run until the idle is steady. With the engine running, manually open the valve by squeezing the diaphragm with your fingers, like you did on the previous test. The idle should drop and the car should start running poorly. Releas the diaphragm, the idle should smooth right out. JazzMan

Be sure the engine is cold when you do this. The EGR valve gets *really* hot.

Great diagram, by the way. Thanks for posting it.

just bought the R. Dickman steel replacements for all the tubes. I'll let you guys know how that install goes.

[This message has been edited by JMunilla87GT (edited 07-12-2003).]

I did the two tests with the egr valve and it did stay up with finger plugging the hole but after it was all warmed up it did not lower the idle by pushing the plunger up while could not hold it for to long as it was getting hot, does this mean my valve is bad or good and something else wrong, still getting a code 32.

The things that sends the code is the EGR solenoid- when the ECM calls for the EGR to work the solenoid is supposed to open and allow the vacume(which is always at the solenoid) to go to the EGR valve. There is a vacume operated switch on the solenoid that checks to see if there is vacume going to the EGR valve whem the ECM calls for it - if not you get a Check Engine light. Therefore either you have a vacume leak somewhere or the solenoid is not opening. That's about it.

quote Originally posted by jeremymarsh: I did the two tests with the egr valve and it did stay up with finger plugging the hole but after it was all warmed up it did not lower the idle by pushing the plunger up while could not hold it for to long as it was getting hot, does this mean my valve is bad or good and something else wrong, still getting a code 32.

If you manually open the EGR valve with the engine running and the idle doesn't change, get rough and lower, then your EGR valve is plugged up with carbon and not allowing exhaust flow into the intake. The code 32 is set whenever the vacuum switch doesn't see vacuum when the solenoid is commanded to open by the ECM. If you run the engine up to about 2,500-3,000 rpm the ECM will command EGR, and you should be able to feel some slight vacuum at the line where it plugs into the valve. If you don't get vacuum there, check it back at the vacuum switch as detailed in the drawing above. If no vacuum, then pull the double vacuum connector off the solenoid and see if you have vacuum on the bottom of the two lines. If yes, then the solenoid is bad. If no, then the line back to the throttle body is either broken or clogged. Also, there's a bigger line connected to the end of the solenoid that points to the front of the car. That goes to the air cleaner housing via a metal line that runs along the firewall. That is the clean air intake so the solenoid can release vacuum when commanded.

JazzMan

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 07-16-2003).]

Thanks alot jazzman I will try that this weekend. You have been alot of help you get a + rating.