I have two decklids with the same problem--no lock cylinder and the hole has frayed edges. Has anyone repaired that frayed fiberglass surrounding the hole? How did you do it and how did it turn out? Is there a tubular insert of some sort that I could just epoxy in there? Am I better off just finding a decklid with a decent hole? I've never done the fiberglass repair thang. Is this the way to get started? Thanks for your help.

Mine was the same way when I went to have it painted. Just had the body shop repair it while they were doing the body sanding. I suppose one could probably fill the hole in with some sort of body filler and then redrill. You'll just want to make sure everything is lined up the way you want it before you start drilling.

If the edges are frayed back and the hole is not drasticly oversized then it is an easy repair with fiberglass bondo. Not regular bondo, it is not strong enough to last.

Remove the lock and build the edge back up on the hole. When it hardens sand out the shape of the opening. You will have to repaint the area or if you are really carefull it is likely you can get away for a while with touch up painting the area.

This is a real common problem after someone drills out the lock. Buy a blister pack of two Ideal brand radiator hose clamps (the size that fits the Fiero radiator hoses). The plastic nipple on the blister pack is an ideal (pun) form for replicating the original hole. Cut out the nipple in the center of the clear plastic leaving about an inch all the way around the base. Remove the lock cylinder, slop the fiberglass mix around the base of the nipple and insert it into the hole. Give the form a couple of twists while inserting to spread the material out into the damaged edges. Then press the flat part down, make sure it's centered in the hole and tape it in place. Wait for the fiberglass to cure and then peel off the form. Depending upon how careful you are in doing this, there is very little sanding and filling to do before spot painting.

What about the fiberglass in the decklid where the little springy thingys mount that hold the decklid up when its closed? Same stuff?

Thanx

Rob

Or.. if you don't think you are up to the project, decklids are cheap at U-Pull yards. Sometimes it is just best to start with a fresh one.

On my Formula the lock was busted out and I am just going to get rid of the exterior lock hole. I have power trunk release and I will put an emergency manual release somewhere hidden...

------------------

quote Originally posted by Songman: On my Formula the lock was busted out and I am just going to get rid of the exterior lock hole. I have power trunk release and I will put an emergency manual release somewhere hidden...

Hey Songman, I shaved the lock hole on mine, and was trying to figure out some kind of manual release in case something happens to the electric one. Would you let me know what you come up with? You don't have to tell me where you hid the release

------------------

I'm not sure that one could set up both electric and cable release as both need to mount in the same location on the latch. I suppose however that since the front hood uses a double cable system and the latch for the front and rear are both the same or very similar that one could adapt the front release to be used for the trunk, just might run into trouble with the cable length not being long enough though.

I'm just going to do like the do on modern cars with the gas door. They put a cable inside the trunk in case the electric gas door latch doesn't work.

Of course, I won't be able to put it in the trunk on this instance but I am figuring I can snake a cable down from the latch to come out either around the tag or somewhere else around the rear of the car. I wouldn't be installing a new latch, just a cable to pull the existing latch open.