Oh well I cant get my Formula running right. Im about to give up here. When i first start it up it runs fine then as its warming up the idle drops and spudders and wants to die. the idle kicks back up and it does that dieing thing 1 or 2 more times. It as feels like its dropping 2-3 cylds at a time. The strange thing is that if yoyu sit and let it wait they come back. If Im driving and it drops those cylds or sound like it the accelleration becomes very slow. It revs very slow and lacks all around power. Now to let you know Ive done a full tune up, I replaced the ignition modual, I returned my fuel rail and injectors back to stock spec. I addjusted the timing from 12 back to 10. So Now I am commpletely lost. I cant drive it now because if I do it will act up and I wont beable to make it to a shop or anything. So it sits in my budies driveway, waiting for me to come up with an Idea. Someone told me i might have a collapsed lifter, or my valve train is loose. Well if thats the case. I cant do anything cuzz i dont know engine well enough to be taking things apart like that. Please help. I want to go to the 20th show but if this wont run right I wont be going.

------------------
Fierokid's baby:
R.I.P.V-6 Swap 1987 Blue Fiero
sport coupe
White 1988 Fiero Formula
AIM: Fierokid87
Rate Me Please

2.9L V-6: 2030 Compucam, Darrel Morse Fuel Presure Regulator, 9.5:1 comp, zeroed out ballanced crank, contecting rods matched, MSD 6A ignition box and Blaster GM style coil, Darrel Morse Bored out TB and intake, 19# Mustang Injectors, Removed TB coolant lines, Darrel Morse Dogbone strut, and more to come

Good fuel pressure?
Leading circumstances to rough run?

Pretty much. I mean it sounds liek all cylds are there. But then again are not there. Its wierd. this problem started not too long ago. Actually the engine has been getting worse and worse First it was running like it was wanting to stall but not all the time. Now for no reason that engine looses power and wont rev. It never did that in my blue car. But I had a new fuel pump in there. Thats pretty much the only thing that never got changed as far as pulling the old engine out and install the the new engine. The fuel pump is the original pump and has like 135,000 miles on it. Would a fuel pump just up and quit? Or would it gradually go out? So now there is another option.

------------------
Fierokid's baby:
R.I.P.V-6 Swap 1987 Blue Fiero
sport coupe
White 1988 Fiero Formula
AIM: Fierokid87
Rate Me Please

2.9L V-6: 2030 Compucam, Darrel Morse Fuel Presure Regulator, 9.5:1 comp, zeroed out ballanced crank, contecting rods matched, MSD 6A ignition box and Blaster GM style coil, Darrel Morse Bored out TB and intake, 19# Mustang Injectors, Removed TB coolant lines, Darrel Morse Dogbone strut, and more to come

There are a bunch of things it could be. I don't think a lifter is one of them, especialy if you think multiple cylinders are involved.

When people have wierd problems like this, you have to work it in steps. There are no shortcuts if you want to eliminate it.

The fact is comes and goes is important. This tends to point to something loose more than simple heat. If it was "just" a thermal problem the thing probably would stay dead until it cooled off again.

Go thru all the wiring... This could easily be a wire/connector loose or damaged. Check C500 by the battery and the big power junction under it as well. Read Wire Service in my cave. (Link at top of page)

Pull out the center console from the shifter back. run it like that so the ECM can get plenty of air. It could be the ECM starting to die. Heat could be agravating it. Also, try tapping firmly with you finger tips on the ECM. Don't beat on it.... If something is loose inside the ECM that may turn it up. (Yes, the "ECM Tap Test" is an actual GM recomended test.)

Among other things... It could still be the distributor... That bloody pickup coil inside or the ignition coil can cause trouble.

If you haven't yet replaced the cap and rotor do that. Sometimes the spring contact in the center of the cap seems ok but isn't. If that is making flakey connection you'll have weak spark.

Check the vacuum lines too... Especially the line to the MAP sensor. IF that sensor isn't getting a good read on manifold vacuum it will screw up timing and overall engine performance. Check that the line is good, connected to the right engine port and nothing is pinched/blocked.

------------------
Screamin' Yellow Zonkers... If it's Screaming and Yellow, I aint eatin it.

Ogre i cant seem to get into your page. My computer keeps needing an Update. And the update will not install. What is the wring test you are talking about. Thanks

------------------
Fierokid's baby:
R.I.P.V-6 Swap 1987 Blue Fiero
sport coupe
White 1988 Fiero Formula
AIM: Fierokid87
Rate Me Please

2.9L V-6: 2030 Compucam, Darrel Morse Fuel Presure Regulator, 9.5:1 comp, zeroed out ballanced crank, contecting rods matched, MSD 6A ignition box and Blaster GM style coil, Darrel Morse Bored out TB and intake, 19# Mustang Injectors, Removed TB coolant lines, Darrel Morse Dogbone strut, and more to come

I would pull your engine temperature sensor and test it.

I havn't found specific resistance reading for the Fiero sensor but they are very universal. The general idea is that resistance is supposed to go down as the engine heats up. Here are the numbers that I have seen for other cars:

Freezing 32 F 5.8 kOhm
68 F 2.4 kOhm
104 F 1.1 kOhm
176 F 0.3 kOhm

I tested my sensor for room temperature first (68 F) then placed it in ice water for a minute for freezing (32 F). I then place a thermometer in water and heated it up on my stove until it hit 110 F. Boiled some water and let it cool for 20 minutes for 176 after that. If the numbers are close then the sensor is good.

Good luck.

Does it act like it is starving for fuel? Will it rev when it is acting up?
Has the ECM set any codes?

------------------
85 GT 4spd 2.8 1 yr blk
86 SE 4spd 2.8 2 yr blk
86 GT Auto 2.8 new to me.
87 SE 5spd Future 4.9 6yr

No codes, and the car will rev but very slowly, I can drive it but it wants to stall if i stop for a legnthy amount of time, the car vibrates a bit too. Not like it was before, That was the CV joint which is fixed now.