So, i'm soon going to be doing the clutch in my formula via the drop-the-cradle method. Done it before this way on my coupe and it's what I like.

Looking for advice on parts i'm going to need (or want) to change/replace while I've got the cradle down, and also to prevent any 'suprises'. I need to try and have all the parts I need on-hand before I start.

Definate items:
clutch set (LUK)
both trans mounts and motor mount

probable items:
flywheel (GM 10118669)
clutch fork / cross shaft (1st design or 2nd?)
fork / cross shaft seal and the bushings it rides on
rodney's external add-on tranny bearings

Maybe, maybe not items:
harmonic balancer (98k on original one)
timing chain (double roller, cloyes 9-3137)
cam (crane powermax h-260-2 or powermax 2030)
oil pump
water pump

I want to do this right and do it once, but I don't want to turn it into something so complex that I might as well rebuild the entire engine. If I keep the car, I won't be investing any real money in the 2.8 block. When/if the 2.8 dies, in goes a 3.4. Anyhow - I just want to do a good clutch job and the "you'd be stupid not to do this at the same time" items.

I'm nervous about the input shaft bushing on the trans, and that you have to crack open the trans to change it. How often do these wear or need replacement? Do I need to have one on hand "just in case" ?

I'm presuming that if I do the timing chain, then i'm going to mess up the oil pan gasket so the oil pan will have to come off, which means I'd do the new oil pump.. and if I'm going that far I might as well do the cam too...and water pump. Seems like this part is an all or nothing deal. Any compelling reasons I should go forward with it??? Instead of just the clutch?

thanks everyone!

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88 4cyl 5spd & 88 Formula 5spd

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

[This message has been edited by nick2x88 (edited 04-24-2003).]

anyone? shameless bump :-)

I’ve worked at a Pontiac dealer for 10 years; I think you have a very well thought out plan. I’m planning on the same thing soon IMHO I think the flywheel is a definite and would consider a better quality clutch maybe a Spec if you haven’t bought it yet. One of the reasons I’m installing a clutch is an oil leak rear main seal or cam seal on back of the block is leaking. Unless you can see any problem on the front of the motor a leak or whatever I would leave it, water pump maybe, a pain but most of it can be done in car. I wouldn’t worry about the input shaft bushing if it is bad your pilot bushing in the crank well show some wear and also probably be making some noises. If you have to split the trans get a service manual and take your time mark everything. I hope everything works out for ya

http://www.speclutches.com/specMain.html

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You Don't Know the Power of the Darkside

Haven't bought the clutch yet. I've read that the SPEC clutches are pretty short throw cluches (IE, short clutch pedal travel between engauged and disengauged), which I'm not really sure I want on the street? Is there stage 1 clutch like that?

quote Originally posted by Darth Vader: I’ve worked at a Pontiac dealer for 10 years; I think you have a very well thought out plan. I’m planning on the same thing soon IMHO I think the flywheel is a definite and would consider a better quality clutch maybe a Spec if you haven’t bought it yet. One of the reasons I’m installing a clutch is an oil leak rear main seal or cam seal on back of the block is leaking. Unless you can see any problem on the front of the motor a leak or whatever I would leave it, water pump maybe, a pain but most of it can be done in car. I wouldn’t worry about the input shaft bushing if it is bad your pilot bushing in the crank well show some wear and also probably be making some noises. If you have to split the trans get a service manual and take your time mark everything. I hope everything works out for ya http://www.speclutches.com/specMain.html

In reply to the clutch. I have heard alot of different options for clutch manufactors. I went to a custom made clutch. I used a pressure plate made for a 3.1 manual V6. The modifications needed was to machine the throw out bearings I.D to 1.250 +.005 -.000 for slipping over the trannie shaft. then I had to machine down the bottom of the shift fork that goes into the needle bearings at the bottom of the bell housing of the trannie to .628 to match the diameter of the stock shift fork. For all what I have done so far it all will fit into place with no problems. This will give you a surface of 9.6875 compared to the stock clutch dia of 9.125. More grip for the buck. I spent a total of $307 for this clutch. If you interested on where I got it, I got it at Fort Wayne Clutch and Drivetrain. They are on the web at fortwayneclutch.com . I only mention this because you say you will eventually go to the 3.4 V6. Hope my 2 cents might have helped.

Korey J

The only experience I have had with spec is a friend that has a neon has a stage 1. He can’t tell much difference from stock as for drivability, but it has lasted twice as long so far. He does a lot of auto crossing with some mod about 50hp over stock. I’m going to try one with my stock engine when I get tired of this oil leak. I keep hoping I’ll get enough cash for a total engine swap.

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You Don't Know the Power of the Darkside

About the input shaft bearing, you only need to replace it if it fails. However, if it fails later, you'll have to redo the clutch job. Inspect it for wear, and if you see much visible wear on the shaft the TO bearing rides on, I'd recommend replacing it. I have first hand experience on replacing these bad boys. It's not bad.

Rodney Dickman has free instructions on how to split the case. That was all I needed to get it done. It's very straightfoward and simple. When you remove the detent cover assy., if you're careful you can reuse it by sealing the hole you have to punch in it with RTV. Splitting the case won't disturb any of the tranny internals. The bellhousing side of the case lifts right off. The only thing you have to do is disassemble the detent assy. inside the bellhousing, and that consists of a couple bolts and 3 or 4 check balls. Rodney's instructions have detailed step by step instructions with diagrams. It's very straight forward.

Some people have suggested drilling out the bearing so you don't have to split the case. Trust me, I've tried it both ways, and splitting the case is MUCH EASIER! Also, all I had to do once the case was split was take the bellhousing to a machine shop, and have them press out the old bearing and press in the new one. It cost $10 and took 15 minutes.

I'm going on and on about this because I know how intimidating opening the transmission sounds. It's not difficult at all. If you have the ability to change the clutch, you have more than enough ability to split the case with confidence.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

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I would move the waterpump up to the definite column. Check hoses for wear, check all the wiring for burns. Check rear main seal.
Once the engine is out, you can check the timing chain for wear by rotating the balancer clockwise (watching the rotor) and then counterclockwise, to see how much play.
Oh and don't forget the spark plugs and wires, unless they are new.....Paul