OK. I have a new slave cylinder and clutch pedal and no leaks at the master. Everything worked almost fine until I decided to bleed it using the Archie procedure... might have made it a little better, but who knows. So, I tried a 'custom' procedure... bad move. Basically, let's assume my lines are all air

I cannot even use the car- my clutch will not disengage, and I can't get it into gear. Question: How many repititions of the archie method would I have to do to bleed my air out? I am just talking about the clutch in/open bleeder/close bleeder/clutch out/top off procedure. I did it 10x, and it didn't help. How much fluid can the line hold? I know my lines are still filled with air, but do I have to do this like 20 times to get it all out? I have no pedal pressure the first 3 inches of travel, then it kicks in. Yeah, it's bad.

?

I had clutch problmes about a week ago. I cleaned and honed both slave and master and though that ruuber seal lookwed good.

Then I tried to bleed using these methods:

1) Archie method
2) Injected brake fluid with a pump type oil can at slave til it filled the master reservior
3) Jacked the front of the car up and tried to gravity bleed
4) Pumped the brake pedal and bled (I didn't do this until desperate Archie)
5) Jacked the back of the car up and used Archie method

Two nights of frustration and the still clutch was just wheezing air back and forth.

On the third night I borrowed a good vacuum pump and sucked fluid out of the slave bleeder while my wife kept the reservior topped off. The clutch was working after the first 1/2 pint. I put an extra 1-1/2 pints through it to make sure all the old brake fluid was flushed. The clutch is fine now.

Coinball started a thread about a week ago om master slave problems. See that for some discussion about why the late model masters are poor at pumping fluid through the system

BTW, I've heard that Harbor Freight has an eductor type vacuum system that's reasonably priced but haven't had time to check it out yet.

You can buy a vacumm pump or a self bleeder system for less than $30. Theyll work on brake systems too, so its good investment. Either one only requires one person.

Yes, About five years ago I went through a similar problem on my 84's brake system where it got air in it and it was impossible to bleed out. Did every thing to get it to bleed and just couldn't get it. Finally had to take it to a shop - been fine ever since.

Also one other thing we tried on the recent clutch work was removing the master and bench bleeding it. That didn't work either.

Lots of people lately are complaining about the quality on the master and slave. I think the root problem is failure to get all the air out of the system (although I think the late model master design sets you up for failure). I'm evangelistic on the vacuum bleeding technique now.

look for the "gravity bleed" procedure. worked for me first time. took 2-3 minutes.
it goes something like this:
1. make sure car is parked with master cylinder higher than slave.
2. top up master reservoir.
3. open slave bleeder fitting.
4. let fluid run out bleeder, being careful to never let reservoir get low.
5. when no more bubbles and fluid runs clear, close bleeder.
6. done!

much better than a 1-man bleeder kit, because air gets back in thru the bleeder screw when you let up on the pedal. but the kit is good for catching the overflow from the gravity method, so it's not a total waste.

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The reason for all the talk about bad replacement slave cylinders is due to the high number that are sold that have pitted bores. But that's not your question.
When I couldn't get mine bled, I developed this method. It requires two helpers. One person's job is to keep the master cylinder full. One person slowly pumps the clutch pedal, calling out"down" and "up" as he moves the pedal. All I do is open the slave bleeder as the pedal is pressed and close it on "up". I can feel the bubbles as they flow through my hand and into a can. Eventually, the bubbles go away. It may take a quart of fluid before it clears. Then as he presses on the pedal, I twist the bleeder closed and then put a wrench on it to tighten. If, after a quart, you still feel air bubbles, you've got another problem.
You said you had a new slave cylinder. Did you really mean you had an aftermarket rebuild? Many are reported bad right off the shelf.

quote Originally posted by peabody: The reason for all the talk about bad replacement slave cylinders is due to the high number that are sold that have pitted bores. But that's not your question. When I couldn't get mine bled, I developed this method. It requires two helpers. One person's job is to keep the master cylinder full. One person slowly pumps the clutch pedal, calling out"down" and "up" as he moves the pedal. All I do is open the slave bleeder as the pedal is pressed and close it on "up". I can feel the bubbles as they flow through my hand and into a can. Eventually, the bubbles go away. It may take a quart of fluid before it clears. Then as he presses on the pedal, I twist the bleeder closed and then put a wrench on it to tighten. If, after a quart, you still feel air bubbles, you've got another problem. You said you had a new slave cylinder. Did you really mean you had an aftermarket rebuild? Many are reported bad right off the shelf.

This is the method I used to blkeed out the mud in my system when I replaced my master cylinder. Took forever but worked great.

I do the gravity method. Has worked everytime for me. I cant ever find a competent helper. So this works best for me because I can do it alone. The only thing I do different, is push the slave cylinder rod into the slave with the bleeder open. THen just let it flow. I just clamp the rod into the slave with a large bar clamp. Then keep the fluid full. Usually takes about 5-10 minutes.

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I have used the gravity method. Works real good. We have a steep drive way so, no problem. Tried the "archie method" that was ok. I didnt like the fluid spraying all over though. The previous owner had purchased and installed an aftermarket slave unit and master unit. I recently bought a factory slave unit and will install that soon. From what I have read on the forum, the aftermarket slave units are not good. The factory unit is pricey but I am tired of bleeding the slave unit every two months. My wife is a great helper but when it is cold she doesnt enjoy it so I do the gravity method out in the driveway. I drive my 88 daily, so I need the clutch to work.