It grinds into reverse almost always, sometimes pretty badly. I actually backed out of my driveway with the clutch to the floor... not good at all. I just replaced the clutch pedal today, and it is STILL level with the brake pedal. So, tomorrow I will...

1) Order synchromesh. $25.00 for 3 quarts (1 back up), not bad. This is from gmpartsdirect.com. That is including shipping.

2) Bleed my clutch hydraulic system.

3) Adjust the linkage per Haynes manual.

Any other suggestions? It is hard to get it into first while stopped, but easy while moving really slow. Also, it has 5w30 in it now (I know, I know...), and that probably doesn't help. Reverse is horrible, though, I hate that grinding sound. Obviously my clutch is not fully disengaging. So, if you can think of anything else to do, feel free, all advice is helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

try installing a residual pressure valve from www.wilwood.com. they come in 2 and 10 pound versions. it is supposed to keep the slave cylinder from drawing air in past the rubber skirt on the pushrod. i am doing the same thing to mine. there is another post about this on here somewhere that shows what it looks like installed. good luck!!

I would try adjusting the shifter cables and see it it helps. Also I found my car grinds a little to get into reverse. This is normal because reverse dosent have a syncronizer. I found that putting it in first and then shifting into reverse while holding down the pedal hardly grinds at all. I dont think it is a clutch issue. if it was you would have trouble shifting in ALL gears. Follow the adjustment for the shifter and see it it improves. Just remember that reverse is a straight cut gear and a little grinding is ok. You should hear it "CLICK" into position

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Stock 85 GT 4 speed 2.8

You might also check your pushrod from the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. They can be bent. Also check to make sure that there is NO play where the pushrod mounts to the clutch pedal. There are two different pushrods, if I recall right, and for one, you need a nylon bushing that fits into the hole on the end of the rod. Rodney Dickman sells these, if you need one. When you replaced the clutch pedal, did you replace the plastic shaft bushings? These can also wear out. By themselves, each one of these don't make much of a difference. But with a combination of them, it can.

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Mike...86 GT 4 Speed
"Sucks to be me..."

The clutch has been my biggest struggle with Fieros. I been through it all. Grinding going into reverse and hard to get in other gears in my experience has always been clutch not releasing fully.

What causes it can be a number of things: hydralics, binding release shaft, or cracked or bent clutch pedals and/or release arms.

It is very likely there is nothing wrong with the trans. Concentrate on all aspects of the clutch before you decide to split the case.

I solved ALL clutch problems with Rodney's adjustable clutch pushrod (banjo). I adjusted it to be 3/4" longer than the pushrod on the aftermarket master cylinder.

Rodney's http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail.html

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fierosound - 1987 GT - World of Wheels Winner
& Multiple IASCA Stereo Award Winner (click me)