The shop mechanic and I snapped off a couple of exhaust manifold bolts (trunk side) so we are going to pull off the heads. Its my 1987 2.8 and the car has 78,000 miles.
I already have the full gasket set and new head bolts from the Fiero store.

I sure could use any advise or tips concerning this job.

Should I have a professional valve job done at this time?
Are there any tips you could share?
Anything that I should look out for?
Please let me know, ok? I really want this job to go right the first time. Thanks.
jetman

You could do a performance rebuild of the heads. All you need are the performance parts. By this I mean SI stainless valves, performance springs, hardened keepers and retainers. You could also get a 3 angle valve job and gasket match the intake and exhaust ports, or a pocket port. Don't forget new valve seals. One more thing, if you rebuild the top end, don't forget to freshen the bottom end with at least some new rod bearings and maybe a new oil pump. P.S. you could also get the Crane Cams full roller rockers to free up a couple of more ponies.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 03-05-2003).]

Valve lash 1/2 to 3/4 turn...I would put some lock tight on the lower intake manifold bolts when you reinstall, couple of mine worked loose after 6 months and wrecked the gasket and had me going nuts trying to find the vacuum leak...I had to get a rebuilt head so I don't know about a valve job.. be careful if you use a hammer trying to get the broken studs out...

Buy a new box of Bandaids.

I just went thru this. Had 3 broken bolts, one one each cylinder. Assuming the engine is running well....

Be VERY CAREFUL when removing the fuel block and injectors. It's easy to break the caps off the injectors that keep carbon from building up on the injector tip. When they get old, they are brittle.

My injectors were junk at 69K. Might want to have them reconditioned and tested.

A light touch-up of the valve seats and evaluation of the valve train certainly wouldn't hurt. I put in a set of Comp Cam Magnum rollers, $160. I've talked about them elsewhere in the forum, if you want to search for the whole discussion and my reasons for not going for the $300 Cranes.

A set of headers will wake it up! Please dyno test it before and after and let us know the results! And add a high flow cat/muffler while you're at it.

Oh, heck, just get one of those ARI $1200 3.4 short blocks, and be done with it.

If your taking them off I would recommend you at least have the valves checked for seating, and the seals replaced.

I would love a 3.4 engine if costs were not an issue but in the mean time, I want to get through this correctly the first time.
I am concerned about possable intake leaks, vacuum or fluid leaks.
Does anyone have the link to the place in michigan that blueprints the fuel injectors?
Thanks
Tom

You can buy a set of performance heads from ARI for $595 + core, or stock heads for $395 + core. Ready to bolt on. www.engine-parts.com. Maybe a good time to check compression, timing gear, replace water pump........Paul

jetman, try the Auto Clinic of Rockford, Ill. phone,815-398-4010. They charged me $50 to clean my injectors. They did avery good job and were very helpful.

I would love a 3.4 engine if costs were not an issue but in the mean time, I want to get through this correctly the first time.
I am concerned about possable intake leaks, vacuum or fluid leaks.
Does anyone have the link to the place in michigan that blueprints the fuel injectors?
Thanks
Tom[/QUOTE]

I found the fuel injector link in the archives. http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

We are pulling heads Saturday. D & S Engine is one half mile away for valve job. I like to send injectors in for cleaning. This will give me time to grind out the exhaust manifolds and to earn more money to pay for this.

Do I need to use some type of sealant on the head bolts?

I thought that this engine has hydraulic valve lifters so how critical is valve lash 1/2 to 3/4 turn?

Thanks everyone
jet

Don't go more than the 3/4 of a turn for valve lash or you can collapse the lifters. My mechanic told me he only goes 1/2 turn. Some of the manuals have incorrectly stated to go 1-1/2 turns. If you do this, which I did at the time, you will ruin your lifters.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 03-06-2003).]

Remember, you have to put some thread sealer on the head bolts before installing them. I used teflon pipe thread sealer (not the tape, but the stuff in a tube).

quote Originally posted by jetman: The shop mechanic and I snapped off a couple of exhaust manifold bolts (trunk side) so we are going to pull off the heads. Its my 1987 2.8 and the car has 78,000 miles. I already have the full gasket set and new head bolts from the Fiero store. jetman

UPDATE !
We pulled the heads off today and I will be taking them in for a complete valve job.
Had to pull both heads and lower intake as one unit, then worked them apart on the bench.
I'll let the engine shop take the "rear" exhaust manifold off as there was one bolt snapped off from previous owner.

Broke the distributor in the process. What do you recomend? OEM or MSD? May as well get a new coil too. I am a bit worried about getting it back into the correct place.

What do you recommend to clean up the shields, plug wire protectors and etc.? Acid wash or sand blaster?

I would like to paint air cleaner, intake, battery tray and etc. Which paint do you recommend?

Thanks for the support and advice and I will keep posting the progress!
Tom