I knew my 6 mo. old rebuilt alternator was going south again. Lots of whining, couldn't run brake lights and PW at the same time or the lights would dim real low and the fuel pump would make this horrible tone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872321255&rd=1

Anyways, I searched on Ebay and found a guy who rebuilds alternators for 160 amps and they are the newer CS style. I just installed it today along with the wiring harness to convert to the new style. It was all plug and play. The new alternator was even smaller and easier for me to squeeze through between the trunk bay and exhaust pipes using my tire jack to push the engine forward.

ANYONE WHO HAS 84-86 -- 87?
I recommend buying the newer style and converting. The old SI model doesn't put out enough volts or at least in a smooth continuous manner. I got tired of the erratic volts gauge and the dim lights. FYI, just one of the best things I ever could of done, I highly recommend it. Go look in Theogre's cave, he has an excellent write-up about the conversion.

THANKS!
Sean

P.S. I still have the older one if anyone is interested in purchasing cheap. PM and give me an offer. It still charges and I can give details on what the symptoms are.

Yeah it's a great upgrade.....especially if you run alot of audio equip.

Phil

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GTDude
OVER 25 years GM experience

That's the same exact one I got a couple of months ago. I can't wait to try it out when I finish installing my new engine.

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do you remember the guys ebay name or anyway I can get in touch with him?

quote Originally posted by wuzzy: do you remember the guys ebay name or anyway I can get in touch with him?

Look above in my first post. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872321255&rd=1

I found out that the guy has a son doing the same kind of business. I got alarmed when I found the same picture of the alternator but two different Ebay names and a lower price. Apparently his son only rebuilds the stock amperage and his dad rebuilds with higher amps (supposedly mine has 160 amps).

ive got one powder coated red even, they quit powdercoating them about 6-8 months ago, it was a guy on ebay, dont remember if it was him or not. but i bought mine off drexter on the forum.

matthew

here's another one for the exact same alternator I bought. 160 amps!! You can't beat that!!! My Fiero also seems to have more get-up power...not sure if this is related but maybe the ignition system now has more voltage?¿?¿...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872678300

Will these alternators work an an 85 GT?

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: Will these alternators work an an 85 GT?

Yes. mechanically, my Fiero is an 85 GT.

Only one issue I just remembered...the alternator dummy light does not come on with the ignition on but the volt gauge works fine. Theogre or GTDude, do you have any idea why the light now won't illuminate with ignition on? I'll probably need to recheck the wiring harness connection as one of the blades of the plug seemed kinda loose but this is a minor issue that I've experienced so far.

Did you have to use the adapter harness to do the swap? And if so where did you get it?

The guy that sells these will also sell you the adapter harness, just let him know you need it. Here is a picture of mine with the adapter cable attached.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 11-17-2002).]

That I'm aware of, the charge light should still activate with the CS installed. I've not hear of it failing to light.

One of the wires on the SI's old connector should be hot all the time. the other goes to the light and should only show volatage with the key on.

To test the light, ground the terminal that is only hot with the key on. If the light works that way then your CS has problems.

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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

Hmmm, could be the last element in my battery relocation project...

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John DuRette
Black 85 SE, undergoing work as we speak!

So how does using one of the CS types affect the belt squeal battle? I only have squeal issues when my alt gets loaded down, with headlights, turn signals, windows, etc and at idle. If I hit the brakes, it loads up soquick that the voltage drops to 12 as the belt starts slipping, then goes back up when I rev it to stop the squeal.

Another advantage of the newer alternator is it has an internal fan to cool it (besides the one on the pulley), so it shouldn't need the heat shield.

quote Originally posted by 2birds: So how does using one of the CS types affect the belt squeal battle? I only have squeal issues when my alt gets loaded down, with headlights, turn signals, windows, etc and at idle. If I hit the brakes, it loads up soquick that the voltage drops to 12 as the belt starts slipping, then goes back up when I rev it to stop the squeal.

Not sure that CS has anything specific with squealing belts but I'm also running a serpentine pulley. I'm thinking that your problem is more specific to loose belt, belt quality, or a twisted bracket...although SI might be more prone to these problems. They don't seem to be able to hold a big enough charge for all of the accessories and is a potential factor for the squeeling. I just notice an improvement in how the entire car operates electric wise.

Here's the problems that I was seeing with my SI alternator:
17+ volts at startup but whining.
Turn signals caused the gauge to be erratic and the fuel pump to change it's annoying tone. After warmup, 16+ charging, hit the brakes and the volts would drop to 11 or 12.
Revving would correct the negative charge a little but brake lights and radiator fan would make the wipers sluggish and the headlights really dim. Now I can run all accessories without the problems mentioned. Not sure how to describe the change other than the new CS maintains a smooth continuous power supply. I'm running a Goodyear Gatorback belt #4050410 which costs a bit more but is well worth the money.

Thanks,
Sean

I went through Gatorback belts like they were nothing. About $9 from Summitt Racing. I fixed all the oil leaks (balancer sleeve), put on a new, unbroken alt bracket, tighten it a couple times after replacement, used a knurled-face bolt for the slider bolt, where it contacts the bracket, used a back-up nut and lockwasher on the other side. I also check the battery cables periodically. It still starts to squeal after a month or so.

Those brake lights must draw some serious current, not to mention the radiator fan. I can barely get it above 13 volts with the fan running, revving or not.

I also bought one of these alternators off of ebay. It had the same 'beavco' sticker on it. The user I bought mine off was 'zbeav@aol.com' Well my alt went south after about 4 months. I emailed them about it, sent it back, and they fixed it for nothing. GREAT service, and great performance from the alt.

Something sounds funny there... What terminals do the wires connect to on the CS side of the adaptor? I can't see in that image above.

Correctly built CS alternators most certainly have a lamp terminal. The adaptor should be connecting to that terminal. In the end you should have wiring setup like the F type system in my cave article.

If his adaptor is running the lamp to terminal I instead of L then the alternator will work but you won't have a working dash light. How important this is is up to you.