I replied to someone asking about rust, and thought I'd post it independantly as well.

The general Fiero population here in the northern parts will agree with me.
The most common area for "concerning" rust is in the trunk on the sides, up high in the shelf areas. If you have a pre-88, the cooling fan motor in the trunk needs to be removed to see the rust hole behind it.

Access to the opposing sides requires removing the rear plastic wheel well liners.

I perform this trunk rust repair with long lasting results, using cheap and simple household products. Total investment will be around $15, if you have to buy everything.

- Remove carpet and blower motor assembly
- Remove opposing wheel well liner
- Remove all loose rust, creating a larger hole if neccessary. If the rust has not penetrated the metal, simply prime and paint both sides and reassemble.
- Prepare the areas, making sure there is no dirt, as you don't want to paint or tar over dirt. The adhesion will be compromised.
- Paint infected area with Rustoleum's rusty metal primer, and let dry overnight. I put 2 coats on myself
- Apply roofing tar to the area from the inside of the trunk
- Press on a piece of properly trimmed roof flashing (thin aluminum from a home improvement store. You can cut it with a regular scissor)
- Apply more tar over the flashing and surrounding area to form a perfect seal.
- Apply more tar on the opposing side. Due to the fender side constraints, no flashing can be placed there. Just fill the hole and overlap it with more tar.
- Smooth tar on both sides as best as possible to give a nice looking finish to it
- Press plastic wrap used for food on the tar in the trunk to minimize odor and eliminate issues with the carpet sticking to it.
- Reassemble

Note: The tar must be applied relatively thin. Don't glob it on, as it will not adhear well enough and fall off later like maple syrup. And remember it will stick much better to a clean surface.

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Ron Dittmer - 88GT Automatic with 30,000 miles and climbing
Former PFF name Ron_Dundee

Ahh, the old roofing tar trick! I see people use that to try and sneak their cars through safety inspection!

You might want a few pop rivets, or tack welds to hold the tin in place.

Also check the upper frame rails in the rear, they start to go once the corners are toast in the trunk.

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1988GT T-Tops, 5spd, Loaded

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 10-16-2002).]

roofing tar? Wouldn't POR-15's products work better, or maybe even Eastwood's No Weld Panel Repair Kit Item # 31102?

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Ahh, the old roofing tar trick! I see people use that to try and sneak their cars through safety inspection! You might want a few pop rivets, or tack welds to hold the tin in place. Also check the upper frame rails in the rear, they start to go once the corners are toast in the trunk.

What might someone do to repair or at least stop the spread of rust to the fraim rail in the rear? I got rear ended not too long ago and had the fraim rail repaired but it is still pretty rusty and deffinatly needs some attention! I can't post any pics as I don't have the car just yet as payment (from other driver) is not the full amount.

Fieroman

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~ Shane
AIM: fieroman500