I figured this would be one of the best ways to show what part of the original nose was used when someone else asked (the dark area is what is left to make the air dam):
Baiscally, I started out by cutting along the existing "trim" line separating the nose. I then used masking tape to mark the correct angle on both sides- then trimmed. Next, I cut the inside edge of the nose to about 2-3" all the way around (easier to work with then).
I used a RotoZip trimmer for all the cutting- then started with 80 grit sandpaper to get the edges all smoothed evenly. I have finished some sanding with 160 grit, but have not gone farther with the airdam as I have a bit more "tweaking" I'd like to do.
I attached mine (a 2nd or even 3rd pair of hands would've been helpful at this point) with srews (I used sheet metal screws with "finish" washers) spaced about 6-8 inches apart all the way around.
I do plan on going back and adding a few areas of additional support (my initial attempt at supports was greatly flawed and I ended up just completely removing them).
Any more questions... just ask and I'll see if I can make sense of it for you! (I asked Ski a ton of questions before I made any cuts at all).
I kick myself everytime i see a thread like this cause i threw out an old damaged areo nose w/o thinking of the possibilities that could delevop from it.
live and learn i guess, cause next time i'll know better.
ps... did you guys leave your stock black air dam in place or remove it?
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02:48 PM
skitime Member
Posts: 5765 From: Akron, PA, USA Registered: Aug 2000
Originally posted by The Aura: I kick myself everytime i see a thread like this cause i threw out an old damaged areo nose w/o thinking of the possibilities that could delevop from it.
live and learn i guess, cause next time i'll know better.
ps... did you guys leave your stock black air dam in place or remove it?
Gee, I don't know how I missed this thread. Never throw out GT noses. I also used a messed up rear bumper to create the light pockets. The light pockets were rear reflector pockets from a GT rear bumper. The black air dam is still in place and very fuctional.
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Red 88 GT T-Top 3800 Supercharged White 88 GT Stock Please give me a rating if you appreciate my contribution.
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05:03 PM
Oct 1st, 2002
Earl Member
Posts: 945 From: Dayton Ohio USA Registered: Oct 2001
as soon as I can figure out how to fix the damage in the corner of my fascia I will be trying this. I think I am going to put the turn signals down on the spoiler, and the fog lights where the signals are however. My foglights are more than bright enough to use as normal driving lights, so I want them up higher. Pretty illegal, but I live in a small town.
wow this is a realy great post . i have been wanting a spoiler and dont want to pay a ton of money for a fiberglass one that i will probably break the first time i come into my driveway. great job to who ever came up with the idea. lol looks like i have a new project
------------------ go fast or go home or just drive it like you stole it
email cwandall@yahoo.com
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05:42 PM
blazin' Member
Posts: 1294 From: Yorkton, SK Registered: Oct 2001
Funny this comes up again now... Just as I'm getting ready to attempt it. This looks like the best way to go for a number of reasons: 1) Flexibility... not stiff like 'glass. 2) It fits! curved like the original (duh- it IS the original...) 3) Light... if you trim right, it doesn't add much weight at all. 4) (kinda) cheap... if you have access to a damaged aero nose, it can be close to free.
Coupla Q's tho... How do you bond the "running light" pods from an old bumper to the new chin spoiler? Is it smart to reinforce the original nose mounting brackets? Even tho the new addition doesn't weigh that much, by the time you add running lights it does start to add some poundage. Plus, the original support system was marginal at best... Also, how about "smoothing" the resulting seam? Any ideas? BobC
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08:42 PM
Oct 24th, 2002
fiero77 Member
Posts: 389 From: Bloomington, Indiana Registered: Jan 2002
After looking at Skitime's car for a while I think if you smoothed in the chin spoiler it would not look as good. I like the way the lines work with the side skirt lines. Even on Minngreens I get the same feeling. Oh and I dream of having a Fiero that looks as good as Skitimes.
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12:02 AM
Racer_JT Member
Posts: 1419 From: Lynchburg, Virginia, USA Registered: Apr 2002
Also, how about "smoothing" the resulting seam? Any ideas? BobC
Bob, If you look at my sig, you can see how it look's "SMOOTHED"! I did this same thing except, I glassed mine ine to eliminate the seam!, My puter crashed, So I lost bigger pic's of my front fascia. Anyone have any of my fascia??
What is best glue to bond the to together I guess I can use fiber filler to fill the seam if I decide to later. I am mounting mine permanentlynext week. Pics to follow
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11:37 PM
Oct 25th, 2002
skitime Member
Posts: 5765 From: Akron, PA, USA Registered: Aug 2000
Originally posted by lawrence: I did mine back in '98.
I just want to add credit to Lawerance. I saw a pic his spoiler and loved it. I got in contact with him and built mine so when people say a "Skitime spoiler" it really is a Lawrence spoiler.
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07:41 AM
fiero go fast Member
Posts: 1728 From: Royersford, PA Registered: Apr 2002
Originally posted by skitime: I just want to add credit to Lawerance. I saw a pic his spoiler and loved it. I got in contact with him and built mine so when people say a "Skitime spoiler" it really is a Lawrence spoiler.
This is definitely true... I use the term "skitime-style" simply because everyone knows who you/he his! I guess we could call it the "Mazza-style air dam" (is that spelled right?)
I did have the opportunity to see the "original" this past year at the FOCOA nationals in Osage Beach MO. And the current owner of Lawrence's original car is still very happy with his investment!
A big Thank You to Lawrence for coming up with this in the first place!
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 10-25-2002).]
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11:08 AM
Philphine Member
Posts: 6136 From: louisville,ky. usa Registered: Feb 2000
Originally posted by Earl: What is best glue to bond the to together I guess I can use fiber filler to fill the seam if I decide to later. I am mounting mine permanentlynext week. Pics to follow
there's this stuff called 3m auto mix that's made to do it. it's bumper epoxy more or less. auto zone sells a version of it that's about half the price. so far i haven't been able to tell a difference bettween the two. it pretty much flexes with the facia and takes what ever punishment the facia takes without delaminating or cracking.
Originally posted by Philphine: there's this stuff called 3m auto mix that's made to do it. it's bumper epoxy more or less. auto zone sells a version of it that's about half the price. so far i haven't been able to tell a difference bettween the two. it pretty much flexes with the facia and takes what ever punishment the facia takes without delaminating or cracking.
Yep- I bought a couple of kits from the local auto store. They were simply marked as "flexible bumper repair kits" and are a cool 2-part system. One of the keys is to make sure you've removed all the old paint before applying the stuff. You can also use this to "smooth in" the seam if you like. Once complete it will keep it's flexability- and will smooth perfectly with the surrounding matierals.
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12:02 PM
CC Rider Member
Posts: 2037 From: Cameron Park, Ca Registered: May 2001
To Skitime and MinnGreen, I didn't post to induce you to give credit (but thanks!), I just wanted to refer to the info I had published in my magazine.
Earl, as far as adhesives, if you just want to stick it up there (not for body work, just attachment) I'll bet that Liquid Nails would do a great job. Use the Construction grade, not the Project grade. I installed a deck on my house this year, and used it to stick some of the wood to the contrete patio. Actually, I used OPG stuff, but I think it's the same thing. The only bad thing is that it takes 24 hours to set up, and at least 48 hours to cure. But one thing for sure, once it's on, it will NEVER come off.
I'm curious, though, why would you want to glue it on?
Originally posted by lawrence: To Skitime and MinnGreen, I didn't post to induce you to give credit (but thanks!), I just wanted to refer to the info I had published in my magazine.
Never gave it that kind of thought (induced credit)... rather you tend to be a "quieter" PFF member- many of the new guys may have never heard of you. And you do deserve the recognition And if you're interested in sequential turn signals... ask Lawrence about them too
As for using liquid nails... a pretty good portion of my basement remodel was done using the stuff- it holds like nothing else!
The only reason I could see for permanantly attaching it would be if you were going to "blend" it in... otherwise the removability is quite handy- especially if you ever incur damage (it took me less than 5 minutes to take mine back off for some more modifications).
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 10-25-2002).]
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01:45 PM
Earl Member
Posts: 945 From: Dayton Ohio USA Registered: Oct 2001
I do plan on smothing it but the main thing is to keep the seam as tight as possible the facia I used was verry warped and I didnt want to put 500 screws in it to make a tight joint so I will glue it and screw it and then clamp the spotts I have to I will smoth it later.Thanks for the info!!
