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  Frozen Y pipe bolts....Dremel? Please help.

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Frozen Y pipe bolts....Dremel? Please help. by RedGTFieroKCMO
Started on: 09-06-2002 02:06 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: RedGTFieroKCMO on 09-06-2002 03:23 PM
RedGTFieroKCMO
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Report this Post09-06-2002 02:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RedGTFieroKCMOSend a Private Message to RedGTFieroKCMODirect Link to This Post
I'm in the process of removing the Y pipe on my 85-87 V6 because it developed a crack on the lip where it bolts to the rear bank exhaust manifold. I can't seem to remove the spring loaded bolts down below near the Cat. I don't care about the old Y pipe since I have exact replacement parts, so what is the quickest way to remove the bolts? I have soaked them in penetrant for two days now.

I have access to a dremel tool but I don't know what tool I need to buy to do the job.

Thanks!
Sean
KCMO

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Raydar
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Report this Post09-06-2002 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
If you have an air compressor, use a cutoff tool. It's like a big air driven Dremel, with an abrasive carbide wheel.

Using a Dremel will probably take a lonnnng time.

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Raydar

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tesmith66
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Report this Post09-06-2002 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tesmith66Send a Private Message to tesmith66Direct Link to This Post
Use a breaker bar and muscle. The bolts will twist off and you'll be on your way.

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"Its a Fiero thing... Heck, even I don't understand!"

Timothy E. Smith
1986 SE V6
1984 Coupe
1996 Ford Probe GT
1999 Chevrolet Silverado Z71
1975 Chevrolet ElCamino SS

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-06-2002 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaDirect Link to This Post
Heat the flange red hot with a torch directly where the bolts are threaded into it. That should loosen them up. If you use this method wear thick leather work gloves and be careful that you keep the flame in the right places so you don't set your car on fire.

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87GT 3.4 Turbo Best 0-60 5.2 seconds
http://turbofiero.fierojoe.com/turbo.htm

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Ron_Dundee
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Report this Post09-06-2002 02:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Ron_DundeeSend a Private Message to Ron_DundeeDirect Link to This Post
I agree with Dennis LaG

Heat them up hot, and they loosen right up. You'd be surprised how well it works. Using aluminum foil as a temporary heat shield to protect other things works well.

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Ron Dittmer - Driving A Mint 88GT, Automatic, Medium Red Metallic, Gray Interior, Black Lace Wheels, With Sunroof and Wing, in the Chicago area.

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RedGTFieroKCMO
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Report this Post09-06-2002 03:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RedGTFieroKCMOSend a Private Message to RedGTFieroKCMODirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the help! I used a Dremel which tooks some time and I got one bolt off and 1 more to go! I ran out of cutting disks, so I have to go get some more to continue working on the other bolt.

I broke my A/T detent cable because the manifold swung around and pulled the cable strands out of the tranny. Now I gotta go pay for one of those which nobody has in stock. Looks like I won't get to drive it till tomorrow!!!! ARGHH!!!

Anyone know if the A/T kickdown cable from Advance Auto works and looks just like OEM?

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RedGTFieroKCMO
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Report this Post09-06-2002 03:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RedGTFieroKCMOSend a Private Message to RedGTFieroKCMODirect Link to This Post

RedGTFieroKCMO

527 posts
Member since Dec 2001
WooHoo! I just called Oreilly's and they can get me the detent cable made by Pioneer by 4 PM as well as the flange gasket for the donut seal on the Y pipe.
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