I've tried over and over to time my 3.4 but I still can't get the pinging to go away. I've got a reman.(includes ignition module + pickup coil) distributor and 89 octane gas. I've also run 92 oct. with no change. It's pretty hard to figure out where the timing is exactly since the mark keeps moving. It pings pretty loud at about 3k to 3.5k rpm's. I figure the timing mark is jumping from the slack in the chain I saw when I put the engine in. I don't know what else to do about the pinging. Any ideas? I'm really tired of screwing with this car.

How much of a jump are we talking? And are you timing it in TEST mode, in gear?

You need to put it in open loop mode. (Test mode). Remove the plate where the cigarette lighter is located. There is a connector to the left. put a wire (short out) pins 1 and 2, Then start the engine. The timing mark should be stable.

Note, The check engine light will be flashing while your running it with the connector pins shorted, This is normal.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.

Don't forget to check that the harmonic balancer hasn't shifted on the crank pully. If you are using that for timing and it has shifted, you will never get correct timing from the mark.

To check it, you need to get the motor to Top Dead Center on the # 1 cylinder, which can be done by using a thin rod through the spark plug hole to tell when you have rotated the engine to TDC. If the zero timing mark is lined up with the pointer, you are ok. If not, get a new harmonic balancer, because it the rubber has shifted once it is likely to keep shifting again. Or, you can make a zero mark on the center of the pulley just inside the rubber, good enough for checking the timing, and cheaper too.

But the other guy's advice on correct procedure must be followed too, to get correct timing.

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Gerald Storvik

http://www.8shark.com/

I have a new GM balancer with a timing mark cut for TDC. I checked it 7 times before I cut the mark. I cranked the engine several times by hand before I put it in and used a pencil to feel for the piston while I watched the valves move. I'm sure it's right. I know about grounding the ecm/test mode, that's how I've been timing this thing. I've been timing it in neutral(5spd). The first engine they sent me didn't have a jumpy timing mark. This engine will jump about 4 degrees. So if I'm trying to time it at 8, the mark will randomly jump to 6, 8, 10. I've just had to guess where the engine is timed. So far it's not working. The factory manual says that the SES light should flash once per second. I guess it uses the O2 sensor to get the right air/fuel mix? All I can think of is that timing chain. I'm open to suggestions.

theres also the chance of sloppy dist. gear, maybe even just a loose/cracked cap.

quote Originally posted by Coop88: . I figure the timing mark is jumping from the slack in the chain I saw when I put the engine in.

Slack in the chain??
Did it have a new chain or did you use an old chain? Is the tensioner for the chain installed? If the chain was used or had slack in it, that could cause your problems.
If you need a new chain with a new cam gear, I have one. (I'm using a roller timing chain, the engine came with a brand new stock chain).

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 09-06-2002).]

I tried to time mine last night (3.4 Automatic) and got the exact same problem! I'm also having an idle hunting issue, which seems to be in time somewhat to the timing jump. Furthermore I'm pulling codes for EGR and Coolent Low Temperature (even at 220 degrees).

On the erratic idle I was going to see about taking apart the throttle body and cleaning it (The IAC is supposed to be brand new), but now I'm debating removing the EGR and plugging it and seeing what happens (in case it's bad). Would a bad EGR cause the timing to jump all over like that? I know it can cause idle problems.

BTW I'm using an MSD 6A ignition, does that cause timing probs?

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87 GT 3.4 V6 Fiero Automatic

I have heard the MAP sensor could cause the hunting idle on 3.4 swaps. The cure is to used a MAP sensor for an early 90's F-body V-8. To get the exact details PM Dave Gunsel or Paul V.

I was told the timing chain, along with everything else in the engine, is new. There was a little slack in the chain, but not as much as my 160k 2.8 chain. I am pretty sure the tensioner was installed.

Make sure all of your ground straps and computer ground wires to the head are where they are supposed to be. I ruined my first 3.4L turbo engine because I forgot to connect the ground strap. I thought it caused the engine to lean out at first but I believe now the timing was erratic because the detonation was severe, almost immediately upon acceleration before a good load or boost could be placed on the engine. I didn't discover the piston damage until a few thousand miles later when it started burning oil. I discovered the ground strap problem after several cycles of detonation over about a week. The damage was done in less than 5 miles because that's about how far I drove it before finding the cause of the detonation. It sounded like someone was tapping on the upper mannifold with a wrench. Check your spark plugs, a damaged electrode means a chipped piston. I thought detonation damaged my plugs until I pulled the cylinder heads and looked at the pistons.

Your knock sensor is retarding your timing as it detects knock.

I'm not signing this post because I don't know nothin' about stock Fieros.

I might have the timing right. I turned it back so the mark hits 2,4,6. It runs quieter at 3k rpm's, but up at about 4 or 4.5k I get this hiss noise. It isn't constant, I only hear it in spurts. That's while I'm in 2nd. I guess it's a step in the right direction.

If you get the timing set as the previous note states and it still pings, change the thermostat & fan switch. Use a 180 degree thermos & compatible fan switch sold by Rodney Dickmann. rodney1@execpc.com

I'm already running the 180* thermostat.