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can you use a better master cylinder than fiero? by gt boy
Started on: 09-02-2002 11:50 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: artherd on 09-04-2002 03:04 AM
gt boy
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Report this Post09-02-2002 11:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gt boySend a Private Message to gt boyDirect Link to This Post
just as the subject line states...can i just upgrade my stock fiero master cylinder with a stronger one ..i still have the stock brakes, just the cross drilled rotors and fresh pads.

i would like to do the brake rotor upgrade down the road when i get some 17" wheels, but i might change the stock rubber lines with the stainless braided type now.

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Report this Post09-03-2002 05:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
braided line is the best. Most mechanics will tell you cross drilled rotors are not the best way to go on a street driven car. I think a few people have used GrandAm and S-10 master cylinders.
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fierogsmith
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Report this Post09-03-2002 07:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierogsmithSend a Private Message to fierogsmithDirect Link to This Post
If you haven't upgraded your calilpers and haven't installed steel braided brake lines I personally would not reccomend useing a larger master brake cylinder .

What I would do is replace the rubber brake hose's first with " EARLS " steel braided brake hose's , you can get a complete set from the Fiero Store ( 800-343-7648 ) they run about a $100 bucks for the set . You gotta remember that the brake hose's that we have on our Fiero's are from 15-20 years old , and if you've ever cut a brake hose you'd see that the hole the brake fluid travels thru is needle thin , this is how the hydraulic pressure is built up to apply pressure to the pistons in the calipers.These rubber brake hose's get clogged up over the course of time and don't operate the way they should .

Like I said the first thing I would do is to change the rubber brake hose's to steel braided hose's , see how the car stops after changing the brake hose's and then go from there . You'll notice a big difference after replaceing the OEM brake hose's .

Hope this helps .

Galen Smith
Red 85Sport Coupe
Founder of Suncoast Fiero Club

[This message has been edited by fierogsmith (edited 09-03-2002).]

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batboy
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Report this Post09-03-2002 07:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for batboySend a Private Message to batboyDirect Link to This Post
Do not get a larger bore master cylinder unless you have bigger calipers. If you do, then the pedal will be hard to push during braking because you have more volume of brake fluid to push. I think generally, people go with the full size 1992 Chevy Blazer ot truck master cylinder when the upgrade to bigger calipers. Cross-drilled rotors do nothing to improve braking or cooling for normal usage. They might look "cool" but that's it. The purpose is to get rid of brake dust and gases that might make the pads float during severe racing conditions.
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Pyrthian
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Report this Post09-03-2002 02:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
better? what is wrong with the one in there right now? loosing pressure and the end of the straight as you dive into the hairpin after the 10th lap? anyways - yeah, the braided replacments for the rubber ones is a much more useful thing to do!
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gt boy
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Report this Post09-03-2002 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gt boySend a Private Message to gt boyDirect Link to This Post
thanks for the input boys.

galen..i know exactly what you mean about the braided lines.. i used to race motorcycles for years and have rode/owned many street bikes. the first thing i would do is buy stainless braided lines and constantly replace the old fluid(racing kills brake fluid!). this would make a huge difference in the feel and braking abillities of the motocycle.

pyrthian...don't kid yourself...brake fade is not very fun after a long straight away! .

i have had only one problem with the braided lines though. on race i was in the braiding must have been starting to fail and fray, so once i got about 7 laps into this race and was atempting to out brake a lapped rider at the end of the straight when my line inside the braiding popped out like a baloon and one of the frays popped it...i only found that out after the corner workers pulled me out from under the chain link fence. ...this is somewhat how i got my saying in my sig.

------------------
"it's too bad he had to run out of talent half way through the corner..."

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artherd
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Report this Post09-04-2002 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for artherdClick Here to visit artherd's HomePageSend a Private Message to artherdDirect Link to This Post
10th lap? try the second...

Yes, get the earl's stlstl lines, good stuff.

Unless your M/C is failing, it should be up to the task. Look for vacumm leakes, etc.

IMO, you should forget anything but the upgrades Held offers; Http://www.heldmotorsports.com

Their 12" front kit is like $1200bux I think. their 11" 4-pot kit is also good.

This is about what it would cost to have a pro do a 'brake job' on your stock car. (new parts.)


Best!
Ben.


 
quote
Originally posted by Pyrthian:
better? what is wrong with the one in there right now? loosing pressure and the end of the straight as you dive into the hairpin after the 10th lap? anyways - yeah, the braided replacments for the rubber ones is a much more useful thing to do!

------------------

Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

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