I have replaced the O2 sensor, the TPS, plugs, wires, dist. cap, pick up, rotor, coil, ignition module,EGR, and the engine has just had everything checked or replaced by both me and my father for 4 months now. I am running out of things to replace? No more trouble codes are popping up either.
The engine is sputtering in neutral at around 800 rpms, then it drops and goes up to 1000 rpms and hesitates when acceleratingwhich is boggish. WHat would cause this? Also this could be from moisture but when I first started it it spit out a couple this black watery drops in a sppray onto the pavement.
On a related note there is a heavy ticking that sounds like REALLY loud lifters or something, this noise isn't as apparent as the rat tat tattle tattle poof that I get when acclerating. What is going on guys? Any ideas please HELP!
------------------ neverending project car!!!
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10:08 PM
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85frankenstein Member
Posts: 687 From: Kenosha, WI 53142 Registered: Nov 2001
But they are both good!!! The EGR is brand new and the shaft looks fine. No leaks coming from that area so far as I can tell. Did I miss a sensor or something? could it be something more major?
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10:14 PM
85frankenstein Member
Posts: 687 From: Kenosha, WI 53142 Registered: Nov 2001
The tube could have a hairline crack in it or be blowing by the gaskets. This is VERY common on the V-6's. Even the smallest crack in this tube will sound loud as it's under a lot of pressure from the exhaust. This is also why this tube goes for around $75.
The loud ticking could also be coming from the rear exhaust manifold but this wouldn't be causing the fluctuations in the idle speed.
I'm sorry I responded with the EGR first as I didn't read your whole post. I saw ticking and waivering idle and the first thing that came to mind was EGR circuit.
------------------ As Alice Cooper once said...
quote
Feed My.... Frankenstein!
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10:21 PM
Freshj Member
Posts: 1250 From: Holly, Michigan Registered: Nov 2001
My friends Jimmy had the same problem, including the black stuff spewing out the tail pipe and the ticking noises. It turns out one of his valves had a hole in it, and that cyl wasn't burning the fuel, so it ended up taking all the carbon with it, out the tailpipe, and leaving nice black patches on the concrete. I'd run a compression test if I were you.
FreshJ you are scaring me with talk of valves... Nonetheless if it is I have quite a problem. I just put this engine in and I am certainly not about to do it all over again. I suppose it could be the EGR tube, but it looked ok upon inspection of it when putting the EGR and gasets on...
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11:29 PM
85frankenstein Member
Posts: 687 From: Kenosha, WI 53142 Registered: Nov 2001
Take a look at the EGR tube first. Take it off the vehicle and look at it real close, especially around the flanges. Try to put it under a bit of pressure too. If it leaks at all, there's your culprit. These are notorious for cracking because of the difference in temperatures between the hot exhaust gasses and the much cooler ambient temperatures, especially in northern winters.
------------------ ( the above was the thoughts, views, and opinions of a disgruntled Fiero mechanic, and do not express or imply those of West Coast Fiero, Fieros West, or any other organization - just that of this poor bastard ) :) Eric Nelson Technician, West Coast Fiero 310-305-4111
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05:14 AM
West Coast Fiero Member
Posts: 2044 From: Los Angeles, CA, USA Registered: Jun 2001
------------------ ( the above was the thoughts, views, and opinions of a disgruntled Fiero mechanic, and do not express or imply those of West Coast Fiero, Fieros West, or any other organization - just that of this poor bastard ) :) Eric Nelson Technician, West Coast Fiero 310-305-4111
No the engine isn't timed exactly right at the present time. I had to remove the distributor to put on the new pick up coil and I put back where the marks I made were but Its not perfect. So far as I have heard the timing will not give a pulseing idle. Just a high or low idle coupled with hard start. As far as the TPS goes. I just replaced it why would I need to check it? Please inform me. Also so the dieseling rattle is getting louder by the day and Im really pissed.
I would have to say start checking compression & vacuum. with the noisey lifter sound you mentioned, you could have something going really bad on the valvetrain.
Oh and listen to this. I was looking at my belts today while running and noticed the harmonic balancer was a little wobbly until I revved the engine. Then at idle its wobbly again. Not too much but certainly noticeable. The crank shaft had too much play in it when we were putting it all together but Bob from Kick Hill told me that it was normal to have some play in the crank shaft. COuld this be a problem later?
Oh boy, not more problems. I've been really busy lately with some problems we're havin around the house and such, but if you need a hand sometime let me know. Like I said before, I don't know the exact cause of the noise but could always lend a hand.
I just went down to Kick Hill today and paid for a complete 4 to 6cyl conversion myself. I have to pick up the parts next week, but looks I'll be heading down your path. I might contact ya if I run into a prob. somewhere, as u just did this conversion.
In any case, good luck finding the problem, and I second the notion to check that tube. (mine cracked and was noticeable, even tho it sounded a bit dif. than yours.)
Thanks Jnco, Id be happy to help you with your project. But I am wondering what happened to the GT? Why do you need a 4 to 6 engine kit?
As far as my engine goes I haven't had time to do a compression test or to take off the EGR tube. Although I did check the tube for a leak on my dinner break from work by spraying TB cleaner around where it could have leaks and found nothing. Ill take it off and visually inspect tomorrow. I also put a tube in my ear to see if I could use it like a stethescope to hear the leak but found nothing. The rattle is even louder today but I can't seem to pinpoint it no matter what I do. I looked in the Haynes trouble shooting and it just happened to mention HEAD GASKET as a culprit, but I am optimistic that its EGR or Exhaust Manifolds.
