I just noticed today when I went to get my car tested that its really really difficult to get into 1st. Also, it grinds BAD going in reverse. I tried the shift to 1st then reverse trick...it used to work now it doesnt. Do I need to replace my tranny fluid?

Any ideas?

I doubt it has anything to do with your fluid. My guess is you need a new clutch. Yor pressure plate is probably worn down or the clutch disk is getting thin. I've also heard though that your clutch pedal could be worn out and possibly be just your clutch pedaL that needs to be replaced or the bushings that hold it on. I don't know much about the pedal or bushings but I did just do my clutch after having the same problems. WOn't go into first or reverse at all sometimes. Grinds almost always in reverse. I was stuck halfway in a parking spot once cause it wouldn't go into first. I looked like a student driver on his first day out...

You have been visited by the evil clutch hydraulics demon.

I am clueless when it comes to clutch hydraulics could someone give the basics in short? Sorry to be off topic. Hope your clutch problem is an inexpensive one.

I just had the RaceTech guys replace the clutch about 5 months ago. I did verrrry little driving. So I dont think I would need a new clutch just yet....

Leaking master/slave cylinder, air in clutch lines... leaky lines... Basically, you aren't getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Can you "pump" it up and have it release fully? With it in N, Try pumping the clutch up and down of a couple of seconds, bumping it against 1st, then pulling to reverse... Does it still grind?

The clutch itself is most likely just fine.

Get it fixed or you'll burn the new clutch pretty quick.

Try this: reach down and grab the clutch pedal. Now pull up on it pretty hard. Then hop in and try changing gears and see if there's a difference.

If it makes a difference, then your clutch pedal/arm assembly is starting to get weak with age. The aluminum arm can become weak and bend over time, making it hard to shift gears. Both the Fiero Store and FOCOA sell all-steel replacement clutch pedal assemblies that won't have this problem.

hey black tree, I tried asking this question in another post, but got no response. If the clutch pedal is weak would that cause an intermittant neutral safty switch problem?

Yeah.. Blacktree's referring to the stock pedal's tendency to bend with use. As it bends, it can no longer depress fully...

Yeah, I tried pumping the clutch...no dice, still the same.

So it could be air in the clutch lines of leaky lines? Is there any way to determine by way of elimination if this is the case? and if it is...how much will cost to do the necessary preventative work?

Thanks for the info.

The easiest one to check is the clutch pedal. The clutch should come to rest about 1" above the brake pedal. If even with it, or under, then its the pedal and you should replace.

Also, it couldn't hurt to bleed your clutch. You should replace all DOT 3 fluid every 3 years or so anyway.

Archies bleeding method: http://www.v8archie.com/arch4.htm

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^{The Black Beauty (85 GT) - Bustedato (86 SE, Parts car)
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check the fulid in the master mine dose that evey once and a while it acts like i dont have a cluch

If it won't pump up and get better then it's not in the hydralics. It's worth a shot to bleed it though.

A good way to tell when the clutch is going bad is when it engages. If it engages near the floor, then your pressure plate is prob getting weak or your disc is getting thin.

Phil

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GTDude
OVER 25 years GM experience

I have the EXACT same problem. Before going into reverse, jam it into 1st 1st.. hmm
But anyways put it into 1st then go and put it in reverse, it shouldn't grind there, but my stick is also really hard to shift into first.
I'll take a look at my pedal as well.
Thanks
Matt

Thanks for the info guys. Im gonna check into it.

-Paulo-