Should be verfy easy to do. Either soak the nuts in penetrating oil or just cut off the old end link rod with a saw or grinding wheel. New end links are very easy to install.
If you plan to replace the sway bar frame bushings, be very careful to soak the bolts in a lot of penetrating oil. I have broken several off in the frame, and I Live in sunny NC! Not fun to drill out and retap.
------------------ Bob 2 - 87 GT's 85 SE 4 cyl
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08:15 PM
Toogy Member
Posts: 465 From: St. Thomas, ON, Canada Registered: Nov 2001
I think doing this job with the car on the ground or the front raised with the rear down helps. I found when I raised one side of the car it put all sorts of forces on the swaybar that madee it hard to remove and replace.
I just did the front and rear sway bar on the 88GT. The rear was a breeze, came apart with no problems. On the front, however, the end links were corroded somewhat. I used a breaker bar and broke the heads off the bottom. The replacements are Energy Suspension polyurethane swaybar bushings and end link bushings/end link kits. These are available at Autozone, but their parts database list the WRONG parts for the Fiero. 22mm on the rear sway bar, 28.5mm on the front sway bar.
The only part of the job I didn't like was tightening the end links with the car setting on the ground.
Needless to say I'm pleased with the results and want to do the rest of the suspension.
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09:23 PM
Toogy Member
Posts: 465 From: St. Thomas, ON, Canada Registered: Nov 2001
Originally posted by Toogy: How in the world do you get up underneath to tighten the end links with the car on the ground?
I laid on the ground and reached in front of the tires on the rear. On the front I turned the wheels either way for access. Unlike some males I read the instructions and they said to tighten the end links while the car was one the ground - proper alignment of the bushing (ride height). I suppose if you are a big fellow it may be difficult. Then again, I don't have half the problems others have when doing these jobs.
It's a pretty easy job. I rolled up on a couple of 2x12s to make it easier to get under there. That way the suspension is still loaded, and you have some extra room to fit underneath the car. And you might have to use 2 wrenches, as it is hard to get in there with a ratchet/socket. The upper control arm was in my way, so I had to use a wrench to loosen and tighten them. That took a little while.
------------------ -Adam sqoach@yahoo.com 86 SE V6 - daily driver
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10:42 PM
Jun 27th, 2002
jelly2m8 Member
Posts: 6286 From: Nova Scotia, Canada Registered: Jul 2001
Umm, why are you people changing these with the suspension loaded?
If you raise both front wheels off of the ground, you can zip those puppies on easy as pie.
here's a tip. Remove both end links, install one side and only screw the nut on a couple of treads. Then jump to the other side install the other link, and then tighten them both up. the reason for this is so you can move the sway bar up or down to get whatever clearance you need.
and they said to tighten the end links while the car was one the ground - proper alignment of the bushing (ride height). I suppose if you are a big fellow it may be difficult. Then again, I don't have half the problems others have when doing these jobs.
