How do you remove deck lid spring safely without breaking anything??? My problem is the deck lid spring hits my engine covers... If the deck lid won't stay up afterwards ( which I am guessing) I will put in a strut
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04:57 PM
PFF
System Bot
West Coast Fiero Member
Posts: 2044 From: Los Angeles, CA, USA Registered: Jun 2001
Originally posted by LS1swap: How do you remove deck lid spring safely without breaking anything???
[b]VERY, VERY carefully
------------------ ( the above was the thoughts, views, and opinions of a disgruntled Fiero mechanic, and do not express or imply those of West Coast Fiero, Fieros West, or any other organization - just that of this poor bastard ) :)
You've -gotta- show a new pic of your ls1 in every post, dontcha..
I don't know how to do it, but I do know how NOT to do it. Don't just try to unbolt it. I (dumbly) tried once. Thankfully the glass didn't shatter when that thing sprung forward like a bullet.
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06:13 PM
FieroBUZZ Member
Posts: 3320 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Feb 2001
Yes, there is a lot of oomph in those bars. Use a piece of wood against the rear window to prevent 'accidents'.
I don't know the proper method but you need to drive out the pin that goes through the hinge. Then the bar will drop and can be pulled from the opposite hinge locating hole.
I removed mine a couple of days ago, but was nor re-installing. I simply cut the bar with a cut-off tool and removed it in two pieces.
The decklid will NOT stay up without a strut or broomstick (don't tell the wife).
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06:22 PM
artherd Member
Posts: 4159 From: Petaluma, CA. USA Registered: Apr 2001
I've always used an air cutter on the LOWEST part of the spring (that's just twisting-force) don't try any of the upper parts, they'll exlposively swing around on you. (easier with engine out btw) Makes sense?
Best! Ben.
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Ben Cannon 88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red. (2:13.138 at Sears Point) "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives" 88 Formula, Northstar, Silver, In-Progreess. -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"
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08:22 PM
LS1swap Member
Posts: 1181 From: McHenry,IL.USA Registered: Jan 2001
It's actually pretty easy.. You'll need a friend though. Goto http://home.xnet.com/~nife/articles/tt-torquerod.html for the details. Paul Vargyas did an EXCELLENT job at writing it. Used his technique last week and it went flawlessly.
Basically, you use a rope and a strong buddy to carefully pull on the torque rod. You then remove the pin, let the rod slowly back into position. Remove the hinge, and the rod comes right out. Then place the hinge back on without the rod and buy rodney's strur rods... Easy as makin Ramen Noodles
its not something to be scared of, just be carefull. I had a broken spring on my '84, so I took both the blue ones out and put in a set of white ones. Much better, did the whole job myself, just took the decklid off.
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08:57 PM
LS1swap Member
Posts: 1181 From: McHenry,IL.USA Registered: Jan 2001
I got it I tapped the pin back about a quater of an inch... Cut the head off, and pulled it through with a vise grip. Spring still in one piece... Just in case I am un happy with the results. I will have to check that link above... See what I did wrong LOL. It does make quite a pop even if you are ready for it.
Hmmm a rope to pull it back, then slide the pin out.... I knew there must be a trick ... Good article. Thanks to all that helped
[This message has been edited by LS1swap (edited 06-03-2002).]
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09:52 PM
MRJ Member
Posts: 2765 From: Charleston, West Virginia Registered: Mar 2002
Originally posted by LS1swap: Hmmm a rope to pull it back, then slide the pin out.... I knew there must be a trick ... Good article. Thanks to all that helped
This is how I did it but I used a Honda. Just tied a rope to it and slowly pulled it back some. Really easy after that. The old wood trick you can do second but I have been there done that the spring hit the glass and scares the crap outta ya. Go with the rope and something to tie it to!! Matt J
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11:38 PM
skitime Member
Posts: 5765 From: Akron, PA, USA Registered: Aug 2000
I redesigned the mechanism so that it does not interfere with the engine but is still funtional. Every other 3800SC I have seen has not been able to use the torsion bar.
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11:45 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jun 4th, 2002
LS1swap Member
Posts: 1181 From: McHenry,IL.USA Registered: Jan 2001
Hey skitime do you have a picture of that by any chance... I am very interested. As you can see in the pic of mine it would have to go on the other side of the hinge. Here is another question if anyone knows. There are three holes. If I put the pin in the back hole would it be strong enough to hold up the lid? I have a wing and white springs( my thoughts are probly no).
PS. Skitime Love that car! just my opinion but that is the best looking Fiero I have seen so far
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09:10 AM
Will Member
Posts: 14216 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
With the decklid removed and the limit straps broken (my setup ) the spring can be unbolted from the hinge with no excitement. With the engine out, I bent a tab on the hing mount, then slipped a piece of pipe over the end of the spring, bent it down, moved it toward the rear of the car past the tab I bent, then let it back up. Nothing fancy.
Originally posted by LS1swap: Here is another question if anyone knows. There are three holes. If I put the pin in the back hole would it be strong enough to hold up the lid? I have a wing and white springs( my thoughts are probly no).
maybe is the best I could tell ya, it would probably depend on the age of the springs. I'd agree with you and tend toward saying no, I'd bet they'd need to be in the center hole but it might be worth a shot.
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06:25 PM
skitime Member
Posts: 5765 From: Akron, PA, USA Registered: Aug 2000