In the middle of a swap on my driver side power window motor. Looking for mid-project advice.

I've removed the old motor:
-drilled out rivets under interior door shell (5 each)
-drilled out rivets between motor and gear assembly (6 each)
-replaced motor to the gear assembly using nut/bolt

3 hours later (first try ever) this is where I sit. My problems for tomorrow look to be the origional 5 rivets I drilled out. Am I going to have any problems here? Motor assembly is in one piece, and was thinking about nuts and bolts to re-attach the assembly to the door frame, but I'm also not opposed to going out and buying a rivet gun and rivets and putting the thing back to it's origional condition.

Also, do I need to put a bit of lithium grease on the gears (or another kind of grease) to ensure smooth future operation?

Is there any calibration required here? Just hooking up the motor to the gear assembly should be all that I require, right? Hook it up, put it together, and I should have a working window, right?

Sorry for all the questions, but I would hate to take this all apart again tomorrow if I find out I did something wrong, and you are the experts

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Jocular
86 GT

It pretty much just a 'bolt in' job. You should be able to use nuts and bolts in the mounting holes, just make sure they dont stick out far enough to hit moving parts. Use any waterproof grease on the moving parts. If you didnt take out the glass, shouldnt need any kind of adjustments. While your inside the door, clean and fresh lube all the rods and slides for the power door locks too. Save you taking it off to do that later.

If you use bolts, be sure you put them from the inside out and use washers and lock washers. I like to use brake cleaner to clean the old grease from the mechanisms then put a coating of waterproof grease on all moving parts inside. No calibration should be needed unless you took something loose having to do with the door glass itself....as stated above...and in that case, I'd just put back where it was, at least for a trial fit. Also a good time to lube your PDL actuator if you have one (pull the seal back first) and also lube the lock assm. well, working the mechanisms back and forth. Don't get locked out like some smart person that I know did named GTDude........lol. Good luck.

Phil

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GTDude
25 years GM experience

I don't know how you could use nuts and bolts to hold the regulators to the door panel. I used a TAP to thread the opening then screwed in half inch bolts with locktite. Haven't had any problems with that setup.

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1988 Coupe
Fiero - It's like an Actual Miniature Car

I used self-tapping bolts when I added P/W to mine a few years ago. Michigan Fiero Club has a good write up on their site.
www.michiganfieroclub.org