Or, The ritualistic clutch blood letting ceremony.
NOTE: The following step by step method was applied to a 1986 SE V6 car with a 4 speed slave cylinder and a 5 speed Isuzu tranny.
Here's what you'll need.
Hand vacuum pump with a brake bleeder attachment (I used a Mightyvac)
13mm 6 point(must be 6 point!) deep well socket
12" extension
ratchet handle
13mm box-end wrench
1 Qt. new brake fluid
teflon thread tape
***Optional***
a sacrifice (must be Fiero specific)
This step is optional, but it may improve your chances. I broke a perfect glass sail panel while trying to remove it a few days ago, so I offered it up as a sacrifice to the Fiero gods. They must have found favor in this, as the process described below worked wonderfully. 
Procedure:
1. Using the ratchet, extension and socket, remove the bleeder valve from the slave cylinder.
2. Thoroughly clean the valve (especially the bleed hole) ans wrap the threads with thread tape. DO NOT cover the bleed hole with the tape. Tape the threads only. This will prevent air from getting sucked back in past the threads.
3. Reinstall the bleeder (make sure the threads in the slave cylinder are clean) and tighten it lightly. It should be closed, but not too toght to turn with a wrench.
4. Put the box end of the wrench on the bleeder valve in a position that makes it easy to open and close the valve.
5. Install the vacuum pump per the brake bleeding instructions.
6. Apply all the vacuum you can.
7. Remove master cylinder cap and top off with fresh fluid.
8. Crack bleeder valve just enought to get the vacuum to pull fluid and air.
9. As the tube fills with fluid, you will see billions of tiny bubbles. Keep a good vacuum on the pump, and keep the master cylinder topped off.
10. When all of the bubbles are gone, grab the clutch arm and pull it towards the slave cylinder. This will push the piston in to the cylinder. When you do this a bunch of air will come out of the bleeder valve.
11. Repeat step 10 until no more air appears, and the piston refuses to go back into the cylinder easily. Remember to keep the vacuum pumped up and the master cylinder topped off.
12. When moving the clutch arm produces no more air and all of the play has been removed from the cylinder, close the bleeder valve with the wrench and cap off the master cylinder. You may have to remove some fluid to get it to the "FULL" mark.
13. remove the vacuum pump and wrench (be careful with the fluid in the hose) and tighten the bleeder valve with the socket.
That should do it. Please let me know how this works for you. If you have any problems or comments, please post them here. This is for everyone.
P.S.- I highly recommend the sacrifice.
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Timothy E. Smith
1986 SE V6 BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN!!!!
1984 Coupe
1996 Ford Probe GT
1999 Chevrolet Silverado Z71
1975 Chevrolet ElCamino SS
