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She won't start - just clicks !!! I have to work tomorrow! by jaguiler
Started on: 02-10-2002 07:52 PM
Replies: 20
Last post by: jaguiler on 02-13-2002 11:50 AM
jaguiler
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Report this Post02-10-2002 07:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
Hello,

It all started on Friday. I went to work, came out and the car would not even start. I finally got it going by pushing it. I thought it my be my ignition switch. So I replaced that and the whole column as well. After I finished that today, it still would not start. all I heard was a ticking sound when I turn the key, the sound comes from the back.
I then replaced the starter and soleniod. I try to start again and all I hear is the same ticking sound.....
Anything else I can try. I am getting very desparate now..... I think I have a hammer I might try hitting the car itself a few times.... that is the point I am at now...help me save this Fiero......

I have electric, lights, radio, etc. - I turn the key , all I here is a tick.... or click.... coming from the back.....

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pHoOl
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Report this Post02-10-2002 07:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pHoOlClick Here to visit pHoOl's HomePageSend a Private Message to pHoOlDirect Link to This Post
Stupid question.... but did you check if the battery had any juice?

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Rocky
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Report this Post02-10-2002 07:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RockySend a Private Message to RockyDirect Link to This Post
Battery sounds weak (old) could use a good full charge.... Battery cables loose dirty... even though all electric items work... alot of voltage is pulled through the battery cable when the starter kicks in... My suggestion would be to check battery cables and charge battery before you take the hammer to it...
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SKIDMARK
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Report this Post02-10-2002 08:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SKIDMARKSend a Private Message to SKIDMARKDirect Link to This Post
Yep, clean both ends of both battery cables and check the battery for enough juice. I have had a new battery go bad in less than a year just because it was run dead a couple of times (stupid trunk light).

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BlackCat
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Report this Post02-10-2002 08:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackCatSend a Private Message to BlackCatDirect Link to This Post
surefire way to tell if you have a bad connection on your batery post is to feel them after you try and start it and it just clicks. They will be pretty warm if the current had to arc any distance.

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maryjane
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Report this Post02-10-2002 08:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
I just went thru the same thing. Click-no start. Tried to jump it, but did the same thing. Used a voltmeter, it read over 13 volts. Ogre suggested that jumping was not reliable way to be sure the battery was the problem, So, before pulling the starter, I took the battery for a load test at Autozone. It was no good. Bought a new battery, worked fine. By the way, I also had lights, radio, etc. Could even operate the power windows, but the bad cell kept the battery from starting the engine.
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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-10-2002 09:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
OK - Thanks everyone - but I am still clicking... I am done for today - I just tries to jump start it - no luck still clicking the volmeter inside the car says 12.8 -- I did not have cble problems before .... so I am hoping it is not that.... I willpray that it is stilla bad cell in the battery... wierd though that it took me to work on friday but then I walk out and nothing... pretty sure I left nothing on... guess i could take it out and have autozone test it.

thanks!!! any more suggestions please please post them...i'm dying here....

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Synthesis
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Report this Post02-10-2002 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SynthesisSend a Private Message to SynthesisDirect Link to This Post
I have a brand new battery, changed my switch, and it fixed it. Until today. Unplugged the starter kill relay from my security system, and replaced it. Same thing. Relay is operating properly, I have 12 volts. BRAND new starter.... Can't figure it out.... *sigh*
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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-11-2002 10:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
Click Click -- Click - Click


Wonder how Fiero plastic will look in my fireplace.

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FieroRacer
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Report this Post02-11-2002 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroRacerClick Here to visit FieroRacer's HomePageSend a Private Message to FieroRacerDirect Link to This Post
Maybe a clutch/Neutral switch not fully engaging? It happened on the 2m4 before a friend and I bypassed the Clutch switch.
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JohnF
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Report this Post02-11-2002 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnFSend a Private Message to JohnFDirect Link to This Post
Everybody on this forum that has replied has said basically the same thing "IT'S THE BATTERY!!! & if that is good it is still in battery, it's just cabling to the battery".

You state have replaced the ignition switch assemby AND the whole steering column AND the starter!

And you still haven't checked the BATTERY!

Holy Cow!

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Report this Post02-11-2002 06:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierowreckerClick Here to visit Fierowrecker's HomePageSend a Private Message to FierowreckerDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaguiler:
Click Click -- Click - Click


Wonder how Fiero plastic will look in my fireplace.

Fiero plastic burns rather bland, but the metals do add color to the flames!!!

As to your clicking, I would suggest removing your current battery and installing one from another car...
Be sure to clean the terminals and clamps when you do swap...
If it starts, reinstall your battery, while it is running...
BTW, if you can push start it, check the voltage with the car running...
That way you don' have to swap...
It should be around 13.9 volts...
Then check the AC volts, it should be less than ONE VOLT!!!
Any higher reading on AC means the ALTERNATOR is bad!!!
Been here, done this!!!

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crash... The Fierowrecker

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avengador1
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Report this Post02-11-2002 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
I drove to work one day last year in my old car. That morning it started with no problems. When I went to go home all I got was click,click, click. The battery was dead and shorted out. It would not even take a charge. Check your battery under load or better yet get another battery to try out.

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maryjane
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Report this Post02-11-2002 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaguiler:
OK - Thanks everyone - but I am still clicking... I am done for today - I just tries to jump start it - no luck still clicking the volmeter inside the car says 12.8 -- I did not have cble problems before .... so I am hoping it is not that.... I willpray that it is stilla bad cell in the battery... wierd though that it took me to work on friday but then I walk out and nothing... pretty sure I left nothing on... guess i could take it out and have autozone test it.

thanks!!! any more suggestions please please post them...i'm dying here....


Jaguiler, That is exactly what happend to mine. I drove it home one evening, everything fine. Next morning-CLICK CLICK CLICK. It just suddenly developed a bad cell, overnight. Jumping it would NOT do anything. It tested over 13 volts with a voltmeter, but under a load test, it tested bad. I wish you luck.
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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-11-2002 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
I took my battery to Autozone tonight. They tested it and told me they needed to charge it and test again. When they did that it tested good. The fluid in my battery was a little low so they filled it. They said this should start my car now.
I took it home and just "click" click" - tried to jump start. I have no other battery to test with. I would hate to buy another battery without being sure.

I guess this is pointing to my cables - How do I test them safely? I don't have any electrical testing equipment and to be honent with you all, I can't even follow the cables that well since the engine is so stuffed in the car... cables are hard to get to... I can get to the starter cables though..... But I would hate to stick a screw drivr on the starter posts... isn't that dangerous? even with the car out of gear i would hate to start an engine while i am under it and it is on jack stands. is it that dangerous? does the key have to be in the ignition ? what would this prove? how do i follow the cables from the battery to check them? are the cables readily available from the auto stores?

Am I better off taking this to a mechanic on Weds.? Do you think they will charge a lot for this, I realy really hate getting ripped off...but now i feel like I am at the end of thee line.

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Report this Post02-12-2002 02:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierowreckerClick Here to visit Fierowrecker's HomePageSend a Private Message to FierowreckerDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaguiler:
I took my battery to Autozone tonight. They tested it and told me they needed to charge it and test again. When they did that it tested good. The fluid in my battery was a little low so they filled it. They said this should start my car now.
I took it home and just "click" click" - tried to jump start. I have no other battery to test with. I would hate to buy another battery without being sure.


WOW! They had to charge it to test it???
Was it fully charged when they gave it back???

Here is how you check your cables to see if they are bad...
Hook a volt meter to the positive terminal of the battery, and the negative probe to the starter end of the same cable...
Have someone turn the key and watch the meter...
You should see less than 2 volts with a good cable...
Do the same with the negative cable, but with the positive probe to the engine block and the negative probe at the battery terminal...
Again, you want to see less than 2 volts on the meter when the key is in the start position...
If you see less than 2 volts drop on each cable, you have other problems, like you may need to charge the battery overnight...
Or you got a bad starter...
Wish I could be there to help you, as I have had similar problems with my Fieros...
And I have all these neet test tools!!!
crash...

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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-12-2002 09:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
I will have to try that tongiht! Thanks...
Now dumb question - the large red cable from my battery is the same large red cable that goes to my starter right? I mean is it one piece or does it connect somewhere else in between?
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fierospeeder
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Report this Post02-12-2002 11:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierospeederClick Here to visit fierospeeder's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierospeederDirect Link to This Post
One thing you can try is going underneath the car, and taking a screwdriver and putting it between the two posts on the starter. You should hear the starter engage. There might be a few sparks while your doing it.

You can also grab jumper cables and pretend those are your battery cables and connect them straight to your starter and see if that is able to turn it.

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maryjane
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Report this Post02-12-2002 09:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
The large red cable on your starter solenoid is the same as the positive cable on your battery. It's one piece and goes straight to the starter. Here is a pic of the starter & solenoid, on my 84 4 cyl with notes to where the wires & + battery cable go.
Here is another, showing where you would connect a remote switch if you are feeling unsafe about using the screwdriver across the terminal as suggested above. Be sure to disconnect your batt cable at the batt while you are connecting any wires, for safety. Use goodsized wireing for this, so you are sure you are carrying enough current to do the job. This is for test purposes only, not to leave on the car.

If anyone has any suggestions, he has been fighting this thing for a few days, he could use some help.

Don

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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-12-2002 11:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the picture!!! It really cleared things up for me. OK now I connected the two posts together and I hear the start making the loud clicking sounds. Like it is trying to turn. Clack Clack.... I also connected my battery to the old starter and watched that turn over fine.
So my battery cable was connected to the starter and I got the clack clack, so I assume the bat cables is good if I can connect the two posts and get a reaction.
The only thing I can assume is that the battery is strong enough to turn the starter a little but not strong enough to turn it when I use the key, since a lot more energy and amps are needed when using the key rather than a direct connection.

Is my reasoning correct?
What I may do tomorrow am is to buy a battery and cable and see if that fixes it.
Another question though. I notices the red cable from the battery has a little cable that connects to something on the side of the engine compartment. Is this somekind of soleniod? I used to have a jeep that had a soleniod there too.... I wonder if that may be bad...if so what is it called?? Should I try replacing that?

Thank you all very much for all your help...I think I am close to getting it, if my tests don't work tomorrow I am going to the mechanic and make it someone elses problem.

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jaguiler
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Report this Post02-13-2002 11:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaguilerClick Here to visit jaguiler's HomePageSend a Private Message to jaguilerDirect Link to This Post
Thank you all very very much for your help and suggestions!! I finally gave up and took it to the mechanic before buying a battery and cable.... They charged my $48 total.
Here is what happened. It turned out to be the clutch saftey switch. First it was broken second it was maladjusted. So when I tried to bypass I did not do it correctly, unfortunately I bypassed something else that I tough was the safety switch !!! My own $48 error. But at least it is over with. They left it bypased for me and I will change it myself. I know someone suggested I bypass it but unfortunaely I did it wrong.
Thanks for all the help from Maryjane -
and the diagram --

So with my weekend ordeal I have a new (used) steering column, new ignition switch, new starter - and the ears to turn the key on my key lock are broken. - I guess I will just get a bigger key.

Thanks all!!!!!!!!!

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