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Blown Module twice?? by Smoooooth GT
Started on: 01-23-2002 08:33 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Smoooooth GT on 01-24-2002 10:13 PM
Smoooooth GT
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Report this Post01-23-2002 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Smoooooth GTSend a Private Message to Smoooooth GTDirect Link to This Post
If you remember that a few week's ago , I had a big backfire then lost everything... no spark!! Well, I changed out the dist. module and it fixed it.. Last night.. Another small backfire... Now.. No Spark!! It has to be the module...

My question is:
What keep's making them go out?? Any clue's, as I want to make the Texas 'Fiero Fest' coming up in March the 2nd and 3rd... I want to make it not.. spend the weekend on the side of the road!! Steve

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Shaved door handles, sidetrim, Custom-Double-side scoop's, sail scoop's, Custom 'sunckn' hood, Rustang decklid scoop, BMW Z~3 vent's, Ferrari~308 headlight cover's, Custom redesigned Fender's, Custom made-front and rear fascia's...

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Bazooka
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Report this Post01-23-2002 10:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BazookaClick Here to visit Bazooka's HomePageSend a Private Message to BazookaDirect Link to This Post
Use only "Delco" ignition Modules. The aftermarket ones have very poor reliabilty. Also when you install the module, be sure you coat the contacting surface with the silicone grease that is provided. Also replace the capacitor inside the distributor.
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maryjane
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Report this Post01-23-2002 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
You may want to look carefully at your dist for signs of ionization trails. I've heard of an instance in a chevy blazer, where a plug or wire (can't remeber the details)would develope an 'open' or high resistance, and the spark was actually dissipated back into the dist, burning out an ignition mod. You aren't running overvoltage from your alternator are you? Hope to see you in Austin
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jelly2m8
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Report this Post01-23-2002 10:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jelly2m8Send a Private Message to jelly2m8Direct Link to This Post
Good advice on the 2 previous posts, but the 2.8 distributer does not have a capacitor ( condensor) in it.

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post01-24-2002 02:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
personally, I wont pay the $80 for an OEM. I get lifetime guarantee from Autozone for $25 and last one lasted almost 4 years and 90,000 miles. It just went bad a couple weeks ago, just walked in and they gave me another for free.
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GTDude
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Report this Post01-24-2002 02:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GTDudeDirect Link to This Post
Roger..........quite simply......you got lucky. Remember.........you get what you pay for. Not necessarily GM......for instance I know that NAPA'S premium line from echlin is quite dependable......but prob twice the price of the autozone one.

Phil

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GTDude 87 Fiero GT 3.4
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revin
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Report this Post01-24-2002 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for revinSend a Private Message to revinDirect Link to This Post
uh huh................
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mindscape
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Report this Post01-24-2002 02:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mindscapeSend a Private Message to mindscapeDirect Link to This Post
When my 88GT was eating modules the culprit was heat. That is, the catalytic converter was going bad, or was already bad. When the third module went bad, on the interstate driving to school, heat from the EGR tube melted the side of the distributor cap; that's hot!

In my experience heat and poor grounding are the killer of ignition modules. After putting the new motor in the 88GT I opted for a MSD 6A ignition for many reasons. One advantage is that the amplifier output - the trigger from the ignition module - is relieved of the stress of powering the primary windings of the ignition coil.

Inexpensive/cheap ignition modules use internal components, like the transistor in the output amplifier in particular, that are operating at, or near peak ratings. A Delco module for example is designed, if I remember correctly, so that the output amplifier (transistor) of the module is not stressed because it is operating at 50% of the parts rated value. Thus, it should be more reliable; suppose we could say significantly statistically more reliable.

However, even if you use a good quality ignition module - if there is excessive engine compartment heat, then it will stress the part into thermal failure. Additionally, bad wiring - lack of current - poor grounding can stress parts. I've seen the coil wire from the harness open-up where the wires go into the molded connector.

If your connectors are broken/cracked or otherwise in bad shape, it is a worthwhile investment of time and money to solder and shrink tube new wiring harness pigtails.

Luck!

[This message has been edited by mindscape (edited 01-24-2002).]

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Smoooooth GT
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Report this Post01-24-2002 10:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Smoooooth GTSend a Private Message to Smoooooth GTDirect Link to This Post
Thank's everybody...
Revin.. thank's .. that was alot of help... j/k
I have the MSD 6AL as we speak...I think that all the connector's are still in good shape, and grounded well!! As far as the 'heat'..?? I only drove it for about a mile and 1/2?? It DID feel like the coil wire got hot, as it was close to the fracking EGR!! I'll have to get another module... Thank's again everybody... Steve
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