First I searched for "window" and looked at about 270 topics to no avail so I guess it is ok to start a new line. My drivers side window (when partway up) can be rocked from front to rear(about an inch) and when I put it up, the back comes up, hits a stop and then the front continues up until it is correct height to fit the doorseal--but,not with the door closed! I need to open the door or it stays cocked by about 1/2 inch. I tried several different GM Manual adjustments to no avail. Is this an adjustment on the forward up track to tighten the top back against the window front edge? I tried adjusting the two screws(near the center of the door) on the bottom of the actuator track(the horizontal channel that looks like the bottom of a 4 bar mechanism(like a scissors jack) which guides the wheels on the window actuator. Did not help. Also, is there any adjustment that can be made to actually let the Fiero windows go ALL THE WAY DOWN into the doors?
Yours with a sore left underarm, and wind blown left ear;
Bill Shenefelt

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Bill Shenefelt

Adjusting windows can be trickey but let me gather up some pics.

quote Also, is there any adjustment that can be made to actually let the Fiero windows go ALL THE WAY DOWN into the doors?

Hehehehe! [b]NO![/b}

That's why so many dew wipes still need to be replaced and that's why Rodney has developed and sold a lot of special "screw removal" tools for the center mounting scres in the top of the door.

As to you window adjustment problem, I can't help.

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You can have all the SPEED you can afford!

If the window rocks front to rear then the hardware probably need more than adjustment.

Most likely the rollers that ride in the vertical track behind the arm rest are shot... (It could also mean the hardware is loose on the glass.)

I'm not aware of parts to fix them beyond getting them from another door.

One posibility is that the rollers appear to snap onto the stud on the hardware. That may allow you to find some good rollers in a passenger side door and snap them into the hardware for the drivers door. (I'm looking at a door right now... I haven't had the time/space to actually tear the door apart.)

Once the rollers/hardware are fixed, you'll need to mess with adjustments. Some of that;s in my cave. (One of these days I'll take the film in for that article...)

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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

AHH there we go!

Blue
Will take out general floppyness of the window when it is fully up. DON'T make it to tight because it will bind the window when it's 1/2 way down and scratch the crap out of the glass.

Yellow
Adjusts (centers) the front and rear of the window in the door seal when the door is closed.

Red
Is the most trickey, it adjusts the full up position of the window. the hard part is the stops get floppy over time and it gets hard to make a fine adjustments. The real trick it to get the window to hit the front and rear stops at the same time. If you don't get it right the window will tilt if it hits one before the other.

Green arrows
In the door on the underside.
Adjusts the in and out of the window against the frame and is adjusted in conjunction with the BLUE circles. If you get the window to tight against the seal then it will be hard to roll the window up. to loose and you will get leaks and wind noise.
I think there is another in /out in the "nose channel" in the front but I'm not sure because I have never had to adjust it.

Be patient it takes time to get it right.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 01-09-2002).]

Thanks guys. I have new dew wipes coming so I will wait till I have them this weekend to tear the door upholstery off and retry. I have two doors from an 84 4 cyl( non power windows though) which may contain some usable hardware if mine is worn. The horizontal track the roller crossbar rides in also rocks with the window. The vertical track(and wheel-Are there 2?-one could be shot if that is the case)) furthest from the door hinges(good hinges) seems tight enough though.I'm not sure what will finally take the slop out, but I will wait till the weekend to try while I'm replacing the dew wipes.
Seems a shame GM could not even fit a window to a door! I do know my 84 doors, 86 SE, 88 GT and the 86 SE as well as my daughters 87 SE have the window don't go all the way down like it otta syndrome

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Bill Shenefelt

quote Originally posted by Bill Shenefelt: Also, is there any adjustment that can be made to actually let the Fiero windows go ALL THE WAY DOWN into the doors?

There is a rubber "stop" a little larger than a quarter in the bottom of the door. Rip it out, and your windows will close flush with the door. The glass is still there, but it isn't exposed anymore. I did that with my Formula over a year ago when I added power accesories to the doors, no problem yet. But, as I say, the factory didn't put it there for fun. They have a reason for everything.

Do yourself a favor too. Grease the tracks with the proper grease, I'm not to sure what type it is but lithium comes to mind.

The tracks and rollers (I have found) are generaly tight and in decent shape. The horisontal track I have never had to mess with. The big problem I always find is the stops. they are round white looking things and have a rivit that goes through them. The rivit on all the doors I have worked on are always loose. The window is held in it's mount by the same rivit and you get the classic CREAK! when the window is 1/4 to 1/2 down.

I tried adjusting my windows after replacing the dew wipes. After screwing around with it for a few days and getting it worse and worse, I finally took it to a glass company where for 25 per window they adjusted them perfectly in about 1 hour, since I already had the door panesl off. Good luck.